Hi folks. I am trying to install the Ring doorbell myself. Does the moulding around the door frame, at where the door bell button located below, strong enough to hold the Ring? I just not sure if it is hollow inside or solid to hold the screws. Any advices appreciated.
I am trying to install the Ring doorbell myself. Does the moulding around the door frame, at where the door bell button located below, strong enough to hold the Ring? I just not sure if it is hollow inside or solid to hold the screws.
A Ring Doorbell Camera Pro only weighs 7 ounces, but like XSleeper suggested you'll want to find long enough screws of the right size and head type so you can run them through the full depth of the foam insulation board, which might be 2" thick, and into the plywood or OSB so it's solidly mounted.
So I wired the 2K resistor in series with the NC contact instead of parallel. Whenever a door or window is opened, I get a fault condition because the controller is seeing an open circuit instead of the 2K resistor. Is there any way to get around this with programming?
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I have a 10-year-old installation with a Vista 20P and a 6150 keypad (self-managed ADT Safewatch 3000 system). There is only (1) hardwired zone (Zone 1) which consist solely of 4 basement windows fitted with a barrier bar in each. Note: There is no EOLR installed from the original ADT Installer. Likely unrelated, but there are also several wireless zones managed by a SA5881-6NECR board also mounted in the panel. Everything has been working fine system-wide for years.
The current and only issue is the 6150 displays “01” and ‘Not Ready”. The only way I can arm the system is to bypass Zone 1. If I bypass Zone 1, everything works fine system-wide (except of course Zone 1 as its offline via bypass).
I successfully tested the circuit for continuity at the panel with the wires disconnected from 8 + 9. I also tested each barrier bar to make sure they open and close the circuit as designed. Everything seemed to be indicating proper continuity. I also then tried jumping out 8 + 9 with a wire and also tried a 2000-ohm resister as a jumper. No luck. I’ve also done full panel power resets between tests. The zone just won’t clear.
Any guidance would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
KPRead More
07-11-23, 10:21 PM
