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DIY'S/U.S.D.O.E. Energy & Weatherstripping Forum Topics Information

DIY'S/U.S.D.O.E. Energy & Weatherstripping Forum Topics Information


  #1  
Old 11-13-04, 06:06 AM
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Thumbs up DIY'S/U.S.D.O.E. Energy & Weatherstripping Forum Topics Information

Hello and welcome members, visitors and guests, to the "Energy & Weatherstripping" forum topic.

This thread is an accumulation of present and past posts and threads containing some of the most valueable information on this subject of Energy & Weatherstripping. Reading this thread will provide many of the answers to the questions most often asked in this topic. Updates will be made. Check back often.

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  #2  
Old 11-13-04, 07:50 AM
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Masonry Heaters Information

Masonry Heaters

If you are planning an energy-efficient house, you should look into a masonry heater. When wood is burned in a traditional wood stove, the temperature at which it burns is greater than necessary for your home's heat requirement thus your home is overheated for a short period of time.

Not so with a masonry heater. The main feature that distinguishes a masonry heater is its ability to store a large amount of heat. When you burn a large amount of wood in one, the wood is burned quickly, but the heat sticks around. It is stored in the masonry thermal mass, and slowly radiates into your home for up to a full day. Is a masonry heater right for you?

Read all about it here:
http://doityourself.com/fireplace/masonryheater.htm
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  #3  
Old 11-13-04, 07:51 AM
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Energy Efficient Weather Stripping For Doors Info.

Exterior doors are likely the source of the air movement in and out of your home and the resulting heat loss and drafts. Install new weather stripping for dramatic results.

The type you use will depend on the type of door and frame you have, and on your devotion to the task. The easiest and least expensive is foam. Better than nothing but not a tight, uniform seal. It comes in convenient, self-adhesive rolls of varying widths and thicknesses.

A better choice is a compression weather stripping, easy to adjust and much more durable. Almost as effective and easiest to install is vinyl bulb weather stripping, with its tough, hollow tube of vinyl set in a rigid piece of aluminum.

Complete any door weather stripping project by closing the gap between the bottom of the door and the doorsill.

http://doityourself.com/energy/newweatherstripping.htm

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  #4  
Old 11-13-04, 07:53 AM
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Tankless Water Heater Information

FYI TOPIC:
Tankless Hot Water Heaters:
Used for Residential hot water.
Items to consider before making the purchase.

Several questions have been posted on the topic of tankless water heaters. With that thought in mind, to the best of my knowledge and experiences, I hope to more fully explain the origins, applications, benefits and drawbacks to this product.

The name 'tankless' is the commonly used generic term for what is known in the trade industry as an 'intantaneous' water heater. Tankless water heaters are not new. They've been around for many years.

Initially designed and equipped for industries where storage space is limited but vast quantities of endless hot water is needed. These units are also used at large multi-unit residential complexes and mid-sized businesses for the same reasons. Intantaneous water heaters are also used as residential pool and spa water heaters.

Over the years, the design and applications have been modified and changed to became much smaller in size. The benefit to the intantaneous water heaters smaller size was to appeal to the broader residential retail sales market.

During my 20 plus years working in the gas appliance industry, about the only real problem found with tankless water heaters was parts availability and qualified repair services.

A combination of problems and unplanned events in years past, caused an otherwise fine product to almost totally fail in the retail residential market place. There is always exceptions to every rule. Therefore, in some parts of the country, this type of water heating unit used in homes may be more common then in others.

The major problem was the lack of infrastructure network of distributors, retail outlets, parts availability. Couple that with lack of localized, well trained, qualified, knowledgeable and experienced plumbing companies and independent local repair persons and or service agencies, and failure became assured.

Although the tankless units worked well, have several benefits over the tank type units, the above conditions and several other factors, including meeting city, state and local plumbing codes, etc, made the residential ownership of these types of water heaters doubtful.

Such may not be the case in every region of the country. However, prior to purchasing this type of unit, regardless of brand name, I would suggest and recommend you inquire into the potential problem possibilities mentioned above.

This is especially true, in my opinion, if your area's local larger retail plumbing companies do not advertize nor display these units in their stores. Keep in mind here, I am not referring to the nationwide large retail chain hardware stores. These stores are perfectly fine for their intended purposes. However, keep in mind their objective is selling and not after sales service.

In the case of the large retail chain stores, the installations may only be handled by subcontractors. Which may not be in your best interests when it comes time for service, serveral years later. That's when your local plumbing company is the major benefit over cost savings offered by the chain hardware stores.

Should you still be determined to save a few cents and purchase one of these units at a nationwide discount chain hardware store, attempt to obtain a list of installing contractors from that retailer with references of prior residential installations in your area.

If your wondering why I recommend all this preliminary ground work be done prior to making a purchase is necessary, consider this fact. When your unit fails to operate and you find yourself totally without HOT water, you could still be in HOT water.

You'll find yourself scrambling around to locate a plumbing company or service agent that services these units and or find a replacement parts dealer, when none is to be found! That's really being in HOT water!

The condition mentioned above, is when a "Tank-Less" water heater quickly becomes a "Thank-less" water heater. In my years of service, I have found many such cases.

Based on the above information and in my opinion, my best suggestion is to buy any brand named unit sold exclusively by your local authorized and licensed plumbing contractor, company or dealer. In this way, your most likely to get better product, installation and service information and be assured all of your future needs will be met.

Print this article and post it next to your newly installed "Tank-Less" water heater. When the day arrives and your "Thank-Less" water heater fails to operate, don't say "Sharp Advice" didn't warn me....
 
  #5  
Old 11-13-04, 07:56 AM
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Additional Tankless Water Heater Information

http://www.tankless-water-heater.com/what_to_expect.htm is a site that discusses what to expect with electric tankless units. There are also natural gas tankless units. They will produce much higher water temperatures than electric one's.

The advantage to tankless systems is there are no standby losses. The disadvantage is the low gallons per minute output. Usually water flow restrictors are used to accomodate this, such as low flow aerators and shower heads. Sometimes a problem arises when you use a dishwasher or clothes washer.

In reality, most tankless units require becoming accustomed to. Most people expect hot water to be there when they turn on the faucet, just like electricity. For example, a low flow aerator usually will take a longer time for the hot water to come out. This is because the cooler water in the pipes must come out before the hot water from the water heater can.

This is true for any type of water heater you have. The question is, "Are you saving energy and water?" The answer is yes. Regardless of the time it takes to get hot water to the tap, the volume of cool water remains the same. It is the time it takes that you must become accustomed to.

The same is true with tankless water heaters. These operate at a lower temperature and this means you should not mix cold water with it when using hot water. And believe me, that takes a little bit to get accustomed to.

Electric waters are expensive to operate, however, you could insulate them, turn down your temperature setting and put it on a timer. A lot cheaper and it will reduce your costs for water heating.

Author Credit...Resercon
 
  #6  
Old 11-13-04, 07:58 AM
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Energy Billing Camparisons Information

Comparing Energy Billing;

There are two factors one must consider when comparing one's heating and cooling bills from one year to the next. They are outside the home and inside the home.

On the outside of the home the two things that affect your bill are the weather and energy prices. These are considered to be variables, meaning they will probably not be the same from one year to the next.

However, there are constants that we can use to measure and verify from one year to the next. They are kilowatt/hrs., therms, gallons and pounds for energy. For the weather, degree days. All these are constants and are accepted by the bureau of measurements and standards. They remain the same forever.

Lets say you got a gas bill for Jan. 2001 which was much higher than Jan. 2000 gas bill. The way to measure and verify if this increase is justified, is to call your Utility and ask for the degree days for the months you have concern with and the therms you consumed for those periods.

Let's say for the month of Jan. 2001 there are 1,000 degree days and you consumed 150 therms. For the month of Jan. 2000 there are 800 degree days and you consumed 120 therms. If you divide Jan.'s, 2000 degree days into Jan.'s, 2001 (1000 / 800 = 1.25) there is a 25% increase in degree days in Jan. 2001 compared to Jan. 2000.

If you did the same with the therms consumed for the periods (150 / 120 = 1.25) you will also see there is a 25% increase in consumption of therms for the period of concern. When you compare the dollar amounts for the two periods, you find out that the increase is more than 25%.

It would not be difficult to compare increases in cost per therm, service fees or increase usage in a particular tier price. In most cases the discrepancy between the two periods can be justified and/or explained. The same can be done for pounds of propane, gallons of oil or kilowatt/hrs. of electricity. It could be done for periods like November to March.

But what happens if the two periods do not justify? Then the factors inside the home come into play. At the bottom of this message is an icon with "www" click on that and the topics are there to assist you.
Author Credit...Resercon
 
  #7  
Old 11-13-04, 08:00 AM
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FYI: Wind Turbines

Wind turbines depend on the wind for it to work, where as free venting does not. The sole purpose for free venting is equilibrium relative humidity (ErH%) in the winter. Since insulation does not stop heat flow, it restricts it, there is a constance flow of heat into the attic.

Cold air usually contains less humidity than warm air, which gives it the ability to absorb the heat and humidity in the warm air that manages to get through the insulation. Thereby prohibiting it's ability to condense. Free venting provides for a constant supply of low humidity cold air into the attic, where as a turbine would rely on the wind.

There are a lot of misconceptions about ventilation. The foremost is how it works in the winter. Most people think that warm air rises in the attic and goes out your gable or ridge vents and that causes cold air to be drawn in from the eaves or soffit vents. That is absolutely wrong. It maybe true in the summer but not in the winter.

What determines air to rise is temperature. The higher the temperature the faster the air rises. The other factor is the volume of cold air in the attic verses the amount of warm air that manages to get through the insulation. There is ten time more volume per hour. What that means is as soon as the warm air got through the insulation, it would lose temperature rapidily and never be able to rise to the gable or ridge vents.

The way free venting actually works is cold air drops and it goes out the eave or soffit vents. Since the volume of air in the attic remains constant, the air leaving the attic through the eaves or soffit vents creates a siphon effect and that draws air into the attic through the gable or ridge vents. Thereby providing a constant supply of low humidity cold air.

The problem with ventilation is that it has different purposes for different seasons and different parts of the world. This is what makes ventilation a highly debatable subject and confusing.

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  #8  
Old 11-13-04, 08:02 AM
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FYI Topic: Winterizing a Swamp Cooler

Winterizing a Swamp Cooler:

Remove the louvered pad holders, then remove and discard the used straw pads. Empty the water pan. Scrape and or wire brush the inside water pan and remove all debris.

Once the rust, scale and other debris is cleaned out and the inside pan surface is dry, coat the entire interior surfaces with a metal outdoor rust proofing primer paint.

After the primer coating fully dries, apply a coating of tar to the pan slightly above the waterline. You may elect to apply a second coating of the primer, if needed. Depending upon the current condition of the water holding area, you may elect to apply two coatings of tar, if needed.

Using a wire brush, clean the loose debris from the removed louvered panels and prime them also. After the primer dries, apply a finish color coat. Aerosal canned spray paint works best when painting the louver covers.

The water distribution tubing is called the spider web. It also needs maintenance. Clean out or replace the plastic water delivery tubes and the distributing centeral connection the tubes are connected to. Clean and service the water pump as needed.

Your most likely going to the hardware store to purchase the needed supplies, consider buying and installing a new squirrel cage belt, if needed.

Oil the squirrel cage and motor bearings. Doing so will help to prevent rust forming in the bearings both now during the storage period and next seasons useage.

After all the refurbishments are completed, reassemble the parts and replace the pads with new ones. You may elect to replace the pads come spring next season. However, off seaon prices may be lower then those come next summer.

This is also the time to decide whether nor not to cover the cooler. Cooler covers are a worthy consideration in many winter and rainy climate zones.

The amount of work explained above is the full details for a complete refurbishing job. Your cooler may need more or less maintenance work, depending upon the condition of the unit.

The better job done now, during the winterizations maintance proceedures, the less work that will be needed during the next coming season. The better the job done may help to extend the useful service life of the appliance.

TIP:
If your swamp cooler is a roof mounted unit with ducting to individual rooms, be sure to close all cooler registers in every room! Doing so will help to greatly conserve indoor room heat from escaping up the ducting and out of the cooler.

Closing the registers will reducing the heating demands placed upon the heating appliance and result in correlating lower engery heating bills. Now what a warming thought that should be...
 
  #9  
Old 12-17-04, 09:58 AM
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Thumbs up U.S. Department Of Energy Web Sites

U.S. Department Of Energy

Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy:
http://www.eere.energy.gov/

Informational Resources Web Page:
http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumerinfo/factsheets.html

University of Houston ~ Energy Links:
http://www.energy.uh.edu/energy_links.asp

U.S. Department Of Fossil Fuels:
http://www.fe.doe.gov/

USAID: (U.S. Aid for International Developement)
http://www.usaid.gov/

Fuel Cells and Hydrogen:
http://www.rmi.org/sitepages/pid304.php
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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 05-18-05 at 08:39 AM.
 

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