Laundry to landscape/ grey water system

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Old 01-11-16, 04:30 PM
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Laundry to landscape/ grey water system

I see this article is about 6-7 years old, curious if there is a better practice for setting up a laundry to landscape system. I have a new maytag washer and the exit drain on the washer is roughly in the middle on the back. I wont be running a valve to the sewer as I haven't relocated it yet, nor plan on using bleach and chemicals, so far now, it's going straight to my trees.

Please reference figure 7.6 just a bit down:
Laundry to Landscape Original Complete Information Hub

Curious if that is still a good way to do it, and if it's all needed. Vacuum break and backflow preventer.
 
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Old 01-11-16, 09:19 PM
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This is how my system will look. The studor valve will have about 4" of PVC, the instructions say it should be a little higher. The main thing Im curious about is all of the kits I see people building the studor valve is always black in there photos, I want to make sure I bought the right kind, hoping someone knows?

And above all, do I even need this air valve? I am not splitting my drain line for sewer and garden, it's going to garden only.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 03:45 AM
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Yes, you will need the air admittance valve. Are you using the gray water system exclusively? I take it you are not using the diversion method. There will be quite a back up of water when the washer goes to spin mode, so the size of pipe will be critical. What size is recommended?
 
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Old 01-12-16, 04:42 AM
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Make sure the stand pipe is higher than the highest level of water in washer.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 08:42 AM
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It looks like the fittings your photo are small. Code requires a 2" diameter pipe for a standard system to handle the high surge volume of water when the washer pumps out the water. Most washers don't have strong pumps as their only intended to get the water up and out. Back pressure or resistance could be a problem if your washer runs the pump simply based on a timer.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 09:48 AM
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Thanks for the responses.

The Maytag standpipe requirement looks like it's 2" diameter.
Everyone I see making the greywater kit is running 1" PVC/ Polyethylene. But have also seen others using 1.5" PVC on kits.

I never use bleach and poopy diapers so I am not concerned about having the diverter valve. Nice that makes the system a little more simple, but still not sure on diameters and such.

Also, if the air valve I bought is the correct type.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 12:28 PM
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So everything except the sewage and standpipe I am doing. Every site I've seen says use 1" for drain and main lines out to the garden, no one seems to have had issues in the last few years so I'll probably go that route. So I guess all I am curious about is my studor valve, if someone can chime in, mine looks different that most I've seen.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 02:27 PM
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Studor valve is fine. It only allows air in when needed. It would be of the lowest concern of the system. Small pipes are mine, but if others have done it, then it may work.
 
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Old 01-12-16, 06:37 PM
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It's not all glued and mounted yet, but this is roughly how it'll look. Not sure if I want to mount the vertical pipe and air valve inside on the beam or outside the house against stucco. I've seen it done both ways. Not sure if there is an advantage to either, leaks and whatnot. I hope 1" is cool, a majority of long time sites and youtubers are going 1" all the way, so I'm pretty confident in it (crosses fingers). I just need a section of hose and adapter from the pipe to the washer drain hose, otherwise, glue the pipes, mount it... hopefully done and functional.
 
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