Swamp intsall questions


  #1  
Old 10-13-10, 08:08 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Swamp intsall questions

Hi, I'm planning on installing a swamp cooler and need a few answers. I am in the research stage now.

I have the Mastercool AD171 in mind at the moment. I have a 1300 sq. ft. house and according to the formula I found it works out to be about 5200 CFM for my needs. The model I have picked out is a 7000 CFM unit. I live in the Coachella Valley (SoCal) area. It is frequently over 100ļ here in the summer. Today it is supposed to be in the high 90's. The humidity here is usually pretty low so I should be okay there.

I would like to know if this is a good choice or what model you would recommend. I have had a Mastercool before and liked it but am open.

For the thermostat, is it a low voltage thermostat? Can I use a regular thermostat with this unit?
 
  #2  
Old 10-25-10, 04:45 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 213
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry no one replied to your question sooner.
If your looking for a rooftop model, then the Mastercool is a good choice but be aware that the Mastercool you are buying is not the same Mastercool that you bought years ago. The original manufature for the Mastercool unit went out of business a couple of years back and that unit is being made by a different company now.
With that said, the biggest issue I have with the new model, is the pumps that that manufacture uses, are junk. If you buy one of these units, make sure you grab a Dial 7,500 pump off of the shelf while your at it.
Lowes sells a great low voltage thermostat kit that you can use in these coolers and the kit also includes an extra terminal in the control box to wire in a seperate pump for dumping the old water out every few hours. As you know, these rigid media pads that these coolers use, are not cheap and dumping the old water off, will make them last several years longer. In fact, you can use the low grade pump that comes with the unit just for this purpose.
Now, if you want a really good cooler to use in a window instead, check out the Bonaire Durango model that Home depot sells.
It has no metal parts and also uses a fan instead of a big bulky blower wheel and uses half the electricity that the same size rated cooler would use. I have installed many of these and they work excellent.
 
  #3  
Old 10-29-10, 09:33 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the info. There's no window at all. I have no place to cut a hole in the wall so I can't do that either. I like the thick media because like you said it can last for years. The model I'm looking at right now comes in a kit with the purge pump and the thermostat included. I would certainly want to have a high quality pump and would buy it separate if I had to. I am not stuck on the Mastercool but the one I had years ago worked fantastic and I had no problems with it. I didn't know they were a different company now.

Would I be better off to get the components seperately?
Is there a cooler you would recommend instead of the Mastercool for this application?
 
  #4  
Old 10-30-10, 07:54 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 213
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I dont know what you have for actual distributors down there but we have 2 stores here in Vegas that sell nothing but coolers and cooler parts. The brand I prefer over Mastercool, is the Aerocool unit built by Phoenix manufacturing. That unit has an excellent low voltage thermostat and very nice pumps, the water reservoir is also lined internally in plastic but so is the Mastercool, so either way, your safe on any rust issues.
The other thing to remember, is that the high line models that include thermostat and dump pump, also usually include the high performance 12" Celdek pad.
You can probably save a little going to Lowes and buying all the parts seperately but the coolers they sell, only have the 8" Celdek pad.
 
  #5  
Old 11-01-10, 08:59 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Builders Supply carries Aerocool. I am going to go talk with them today. I called and they can order one for me now. I talked to Lowes and Home Depot and they said if it isn't in stock they won't be able to order it until next spring. The guy I talked to didn't seem to be very knowledgeable on the subject. I donít know if they carry the Pro or the Trophy series but Iíll find out.

Thanks for the info. I'll let you know how it works out.
 
  #6  
Old 11-01-10, 09:45 AM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 213
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
If builders supply deals with Phoenix manufacturing products, then they should be able to order what you want from them. The pro series is the complete kit with all the frills.
PMI - Phoenix Manufacturing, Inc.

If you have a tough time getting this model where you are located, my supplier in Vegas has the large 6500cfm pro model, runs around 12-1300 dollars.
 
  #7  
Old 11-03-10, 09:55 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So Builders Supply was a bust. I ended up going to a local AC dealer and got a unit. The model # is PD6802C. This is everything but the mounting, wiring and rood hardware.

I will be getting the rest of what I need today. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind answering.

1. Can I run the thermostat wiring and the power in the same conduit?
2. Can I use stranded power cable instead of solid wire? (I want to use a plug on it so I can connect it to a generator easily.)
3. Can I connect the purge pump to a roof vent to drain the water? I am talking about a sewer vent of course.
4. Does the purge pump outlet need to be connected to a lower than the top of the overflow outlet for it to work properly (I assume it does.)

I am looking into putting some supports under the cooler just for the sake of insurance. Do you have a recommendation for this?

Thanks
 
  #8  
Old 11-03-10, 11:51 AM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 213
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Glad you were able to find what you need.
Heres the answers to your questions.
1. Not a good idea to run high and low voltage together. You can either run the low voltage cable up through the duct and into the cooler, or if you want it to look nice, run the low voltage cable in 1/2 inch liquidtight (flexible) conduit and make your own 1/2 inch knockout on the outside of the cooler to run it into with the proper fittings.

2.Stranded wire is actually a better conductor than solid, so that is fine.

3.Yes you can connect to the roof vent but you may want to build a trap in your pvc line from the cooler, just incase you get any fumes.

4. Yes, the purge pump outlet does need to be lower than the cooler.

5. If you go to lowes, they have leg kits that will fit that cooler, you need the square corner kit. They run around 25 bucks.
 
  #9  
Old 11-03-10, 02:07 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Actually on the fifth question I was talking about support under the roof to help the roof support the weight of the cooler.

I didn't word that right.

Is it better to use plastic or copper for the water supply?

Thanks again
 
  #10  
Old 11-03-10, 04:41 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 213
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry, I must not have understood the last question, oops.
You dont need to do anything with the roof, that cooler isnt heavy enough to worry about.
Copper water line is the best but remember to shut it off and unhook it at the lower valve end, so it can drain off before the freezing weather.
If you use plastic, be sure you dont run it through the walls or attic, keep it outside and just replace it when it rots. Also the best plastic to use is the black, anything else just doesnt last in the sun.
 
  #11  
Old 11-03-10, 04:51 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I don't think I worded the question right to start with. I'll just leave the roof alone as far as bracing it up then.

I will use copper if it's the best. We don't get much freezing here but I'll disconnect just in case.

Thanks again
 
  #12  
Old 11-07-10, 12:10 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I am wondering if there is an orientation for installing a cooler on the roof? Is it better to have the intake away from the wind, away from the sun or both if possible? The wind direction here comes mostly from the north and west. I am probably going to point the intake to the east. It probably doesn't matter much but in the least I figure less dirt will blow in during the winter throught the winterization sheet.

Thanks once more
 
  #13  
Old 11-08-10, 08:38 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I have another question about the purge system.

Would it be wise or unwise to route the water into the gutter? The gutter is connected to a drainage system which leaches into and area that I have bushed planted. I would most likely not have to water them near as much in the spring and summer if this water dumped there.

Would this potentially cause problems for the gutters? Would that rust out or something like that? How much water actually comes out of the purge system? The manual says it dumps every five hours the pump operates for 1.5 minutes.
 
  #14  
Old 11-08-10, 08:47 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
You might actually overwater doing that. I manually purge my window cooler into a bucket, normally 2 times a day when it's running, and get about 2 1/2 gallons each time. I just purge by gravity and it only takes about 1 minute.

I'd guess you would get even more. Also...there may be quite a bit of minerals..depending on your water supply of course.
 
  #15  
Old 11-10-10, 08:07 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Okay, thanks. I guess I'll run the purge to the sewer vent then.
 
  #16  
Old 11-22-10, 09:00 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So, I have the cooler up on the roof. Everything is done except connecting the power, water, thermostat and purge drain.

Two questions:

1. On the power and thermostat. Do I put two holes in the roof, one for each of these or both in one hole with the proper jack? Two holes I think would be better.
2. What is the best material to use for the purge? The cooler has a hose connection that comes with it. I am not opposed to getting something else if it is better. I was thinking of using some plastic tubing or just a piece of garden hose.
 
  #17  
Old 11-30-10, 09:30 AM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 213
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sorry for the late reply! The high voltage wires and thermostat wires, need to be run in seperate flexible conduit.

I always use PVC pipe for my drains, you can buy a special brass fitting that allows the PVC to be hooked up to the garden hose style drain on the cooler.
 
  #18  
Old 11-30-10, 09:44 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
One thing....I'd paint the exposed PVC..maybe the roof color or something. Over time PVC will "burn" from the sun. Won't really hurt it for drainage but it will be more brittle.

Just a simple wipe down with alcohol or mineral spirits, let dry, then spray.
 
  #19  
Old 12-02-10, 02:08 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 213
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you Gunguy, I should have mentioned that. Painting the pvc not only protects it but makes the finished job look nicer.
 
  #20  
Old 12-22-10, 05:04 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 30
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Alright, this is done and I can count on having cool air next summer for way less money than I paid last summer.

Thank you all for the help and suggestions. Everything went as smooth as silk.

We are getting pounded here with rain in SoCal so I know the roof is not leaking anywhere so that's good to know.

All I have left to do is apply for the $300.00 rebat that I hope is not to late to collect.

Thanks again
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: