Insalling outside wall sheathing?

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Old 10-24-04, 11:47 AM
LearningMan
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Insalling outside wall sheathing?

Hello, I just finished framing in a 18x20 garage in my backyard and needed some advice on putting on the sheathing. The garage has a gable roof.

Where the top sheathing for the gable ends meets the wall sheathing below, am I supposed to use a metal type drip edge that goes in between where the horizontal seems is? If so do do I install the bottom sheathing first and then the drip edge and lastly the gable sheathing or do I do it in reverse?

Can I wrap the exterior in #15 or #30 felt paper or do I need to use Tyvek? The felt would be much cheaper, and I thought I had seen it used before.

Ok thanks
Carito
 
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Old 10-24-04, 12:07 PM
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What all will you do in the garage??????If a lot for sure go for the tyvek warp around. But there are a lot with just 15lb felt. On the siding put the bottom on first. Then what we call a Z bar on it for the drip edge. Then fill in the gableset on top of the metal Z bar.

ED
 
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Old 10-30-04, 04:53 PM
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Wall sheathing

This thread has been moved from Subfloors to Lumber & Siding for further discussion.
 
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Old 10-31-04, 08:22 AM
LearningMan
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Z Bar installation?

Thanks for the reply ed but im confused about something. This metal z bar is not that big. I have put up the bottom osb on my garage walls and am ready to put up the gable end osb and then finally all the 4x8 sheets of hardy board. Do I install the metal z bar between the osb where the bottom sheathing and gable end sheathing meet or do wait and install the metal z bar between the bottom bardy board and the gable end hardy board, or do I use a zar bar both times????? The guy in Lowes said I should just take some regular rolled metal flashing like 6" and install on top of the osb seam where they meet (before putting the wrap on) and then use the z bar where the hardy board on the bottom and the hardy board on the gable end meet. Which is right???

Also I dont have any windows but will have one 36" steel door and one 10' garage door. What do I do for flashing above the two doors in relation to the hardy installation. Do I put in the steel door before or after the hardy board? I was thinking before so that any water couldnt go behind the door jamb should a leak occur. But do I flash around it somehow? OK Thanks a lot. Seems like stupid questions, but this is my first time and am having a blast...

Dwayne
 
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Old 11-02-04, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LearningMan
Thanks for the reply ed but im confused about something. This metal z bar is not that big. I have put up the bottom osb on my garage walls and am ready to put up the gable end osb and then finally all the 4x8 sheets of hardy board. Do I install the metal z bar between the osb where the bottom sheathing and gable end sheathing meet or do wait and install the metal z bar between the bottom bardy board and the gable end hardy board, or do I use a zar bar both times????? The guy in Lowes said I should just take some regular rolled metal flashing like 6" and install on top of the osb seam where they meet (before putting the wrap on) and then use the z bar where the hardy board on the bottom and the hardy board on the gable end meet. Which is right???

Also I dont have any windows but will have one 36" steel door and one 10' garage door. What do I do for flashing above the two doors in relation to the hardy installation. Do I put in the steel door before or after the hardy board? I was thinking before so that any water couldnt go behind the door jamb should a leak occur. But do I flash around it somehow? OK Thanks a lot. Seems like stupid questions, but this is my first time and am having a blast...

Dwayne
Glad to hear your having fun Dwayne!!

I've personally used building wrap on all my projects for quickness of installation. Material vs. labor cost would probably equal out from a business standpoint, but there's really only one joint so to speak when using building wrap. For you situation I would do:

After sheeting is intalled-including gable end sheeting-do not worry about flashing the joint between the wall/gable sheeting. Depending on sidewall heigth the wrap will probably extend over that joint anyways. When installing the wrap over the gables, be sure the building wrap extends down past the wall/gable joint by at least 12" then tape this joint with the tape recommended.

Install all your windows/doors at this point. Once installed they sell pre-bent drip cap that you install over the top brickmold of the doors/windows unless they have nailing fins. If they have nailing fins a generious amount of caulking/silicone is applied before they are set into the opening. Once they are properly secured into the opening via roofing nails/wafer head screws I like to use the tape used for the building wrap and starting at the bottom of the window lay down 3 layers of the 2" wide tape overlapping by about an inch, after bottom is taped do the sides then the top. Once the tape is in place local code requires us to also install asphalt type flashing over the hems. You can buy the stuff specifally for that application, but they let us by using pre-cut rolled roof starter strip. We've also used ice dam cut into 6-9" strips as well.

After all the accessories (windows, doors, vents, etc...) are installed proceed with the wood siding installation. After the wall siding is installed on the gable ends, install the Z molding so it sets on top of the wall siding and has at least 6" of the flashing protruding up the wall. Once this is in place, you can then prceed to install the gable end siding.
 
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Old 11-02-04, 06:13 PM
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Just close it all up with the wrap. You only need the Z bar when you have the bottom hardy board siding on and put it up there. then put the gable end hardy boardy siding right on top of it. We break up the Z bar all the time out of just 3" you only want a 1/4" drip there to show.

ED
 
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