fastening cement board siding

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Old 09-28-05, 02:40 PM
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fastening cement board siding

What best to use to fasten 4x8 sheets of cement board siding (Certainteed Weatherboards)?

We are currently using a special nail gun and special nails as recommended in the users manual of the siding. The contractor seems to think that the nails will pop out over time and would like to use screws.

We cannot find a screw that will bite into the cement board and self-countersink. We tried some with 'cutters' on the bottom of the heads, but they don't cut enough into the cement board to countersink.

Ideas? thoughts? thanks
 

Last edited by rdhamm; 09-28-05 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 09-28-05, 03:59 PM
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If you are using the correct length ring shanked Hardipanel nails, then your contractor is nuts.
 
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Old 09-28-05, 06:14 PM
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Is the contractor nuts?

No, he's Australian. He claims to have installed 'tons of the stuff' and they always used screws.

Well, maybe he is both nuts and Australian.

Seriously, do we need to make sure that we nail into studs?

Thanks
 
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Old 09-28-05, 08:25 PM
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Yes, you absolutely must nail into the studs. Occasionally, this may mean that you have to trim a panel so that it ends on a stud, if you run into some wacky layout.

If you go contrary to Hardipanel suggestions and use screws, they would still need to be either hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel, since any other would not work well in the alkaline cement product. Piercing the surface with screws is not recommended- and even with nails- would be contrary to their recommended installation practices. See http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...stallation.php
 
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Old 09-29-05, 01:48 AM
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Cement Board Siding

I hate to jump into this, but the Contractor from down under is incorrect in the fact that the nails will pop out. In fact the instructions are very clear about using the nail gun and those coil nails. However, They do also make screws exactly for Handipanels and other cement board siding. However, these screws will not countersink. Tell yuour Aussie friend to read the instructions carefully, word for word.
Time to read the instructions guys. However, you are only to use the screws in certain locations, and you must also pre drill the holes. You do not need to be on a stud if you are applying to sub-sheeting 1/2" or greater. If you are using the correct nail and nail gun, you will see that it is a aluminum nail with a plastic collar on it. This nail gun shoots the nail in a alot higher speed then a framing nailer. The plastic collar embeds also, and keeps the nail from coming out. Have a good day.
 
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Old 09-29-05, 05:24 AM
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Maybe he's worried about the nails pulling out because he's missing the studs every time?
 
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Old 09-29-05, 05:43 AM
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Jack, please read

We are using the Bostitch Siding Nailer (N68C) as described in the instructions with the Bostitch 2.5" round head ring shank galvanized blunt chisel point.

I think that these are correct, but don't match your description.

The instructions do not detail a specific nail. They do mention a gun with a flush mount - which this one has.

Thanks
 
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Old 10-02-05, 10:03 PM
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Page 2 of the Hardiplank instructions (XSleeper provided the web link earlier) does detail specific fasteners. You may want to read them again.
 
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Old 10-04-05, 01:37 PM
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Aluminum Fasteners

Originally Posted by Jack the Contractor
I hate to jump into this, but the Contractor from down under is incorrect in the fact that the nails will pop out. In fact the instructions are very clear about using the nail gun and those coil nails. However, They do also make screws exactly for Handipanels and other cement board siding. However, these screws will not countersink. Tell yuour Aussie friend to read the instructions carefully, word for word.
Time to read the instructions guys. However, you are only to use the screws in certain locations, and you must also pre drill the holes. You do not need to be on a stud if you are applying to sub-sheeting 1/2" or greater. If you are using the correct nail and nail gun, you will see that it is a aluminum nail with a plastic collar on it. This nail gun shoots the nail in a alot higher speed then a framing nailer. The plastic collar embeds also, and keeps the nail from coming out. Have a good day.
Getting ready to do a job at home. The Hardi instructions on page 2 says in bold type to not use Aluminum Fasteners. Am I missing something?
 
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Old 10-04-05, 04:00 PM
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You are not missing anything. I did not mean aluminum. I meant Stainless Steel nails. Sorry about that. My apologizes.
 
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Old 10-10-05, 09:43 AM
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FYI to all

The Certainteed Weatherboards installation guide does not specify a type of nail Manual other than 8d non-corrosive.

The product we are using is Certainteed and not Hardipanel.
 
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Old 06-20-07, 10:27 AM
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Thumbs up bobo123

I am thinking about using fiber cement siding to cover the old worn wood lap siding/stucco thats currently covering the front part of my house. IS it okay to apply the new siding over the existing siding by using furring strips to level the wall?
 
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Old 06-20-07, 11:02 AM
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I would not recommend it, for two reasons.

1). Applying furring over existing siding does not usually result in a flat plane. Instead, the furring simply follows the wavy surface it is nailed onto. Getting down to the sheathing gives you a much better chance of having a flat surface to nail to, which will result siding that lays straighter with less waves.

2). Building paper is usually required under all fiber cement products. The critical areas for water infiltration will be around windows and doors, and usually there is no good way to seal building paper in these critical areas when it is installed over furring and terminates at a window opening. If done, the best method is to remove and replace all window and door trim, running the building paper behind the new trim, sealing it with flashing tape, installing new trim over the new building paper and installing new drip caps over the new trim.

The biggest problem will be the fact that you are building the siding level way out past your existing window and door trim, requiring extra thick window trim, or several layers of built up window trim.
 
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