Removal of Exterior Door


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Old 10-09-06, 07:40 PM
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Removal of Exterior Door

There is an exterior door in my utility room that I am going to be removing. The exterior of the house is wooden clapboards. I plan on re-siding that part with new clapboards.

After I remove the door and add framing (sole plate, etc) what layers should I add for weatherproofing before I add the clapboards?

Thanks...
 
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Old 10-09-06, 07:51 PM
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when you install any additional framing, you will want it to be flush with the existing framing. When I install additional framing that meets up with the old, I like to run a bead of sealant or construction adhesive between the old framing and the new framing, since that will help seal up air leaks. You will also need to add on some furring onto the framing so that it will be flush with your existing sheathing. (The sheathing is the surface the siding is nailed to). If you remove your old siding before you install the door, it would be wise to install #15 felt or some other type of building paper (like tyvek) over the sheathing to protect it from weather. After that, you can install the door.

It's also a good practice to install a drip cap over the top of the door trim. A drip cap is just a flashing that will keep water from running behind the top of the door- it will help direct water out over the face of the trim. The top edge of the drip cap should either be tucked the #15 felt, or an additional layer of #15 felt can be laid over the drip cap after it is installed.
 
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Old 10-10-06, 07:23 AM
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Thanks for the advice. A couple of questions:

What material would you recommend for sheathing? 1/2 inch plywood?

You said that you would use a sealant or adhesive for sealing up joints
between old and new framing. Does that include the seams where the new
sheathing meets the old?

Thanks...
 

Last edited by DIYaddict; 10-10-06 at 09:18 AM. Reason: Removed quote as it's unnecessary to quote the entire post directly above yours
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Old 10-10-06, 10:32 AM
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The material used for sheathing will be equal in thickness to whatever is currently surrounding the opening. So if you have old 3/4" shiplap boards as sheathing, 3/4" plywood, OSB or some sort of 1X would work. If you have 1/2" plywood as sheathing, you could use 1/2" plywood or osb. Super old houses have pretty thick sheathing boards, sometimes up to 7/8 or 1" thick. In that case, you might use a layer of 1/2 and 3/8 or two layers of 1/2. It just depends on what you find when you tear it apart. You just want any new framing and sheathing that you add to come out at the same level as what is there so that your overall wall thickness remains the same.

You could run sealant down the seam of your sheathing, but that's up to you. I wouldn't do it because I prefer not to have adhesive squish out where I might get my sleeve or my tools in it. Felt paper will cover those seams and make them water tight.
 
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Old 10-10-06, 12:09 PM
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XSleeper,

Thanks very much!
 
 

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