Hardie panel installation help, Please?

I just bought 3 4 x 8 sheets of this stuff to fill in a garage door opening. I thought it would be better than T 111 because it will go all the way down to the concrete. After I get home I notice that they are not tongue and groove, and the grooves on the end are the same width as on the rest of the board, so when I butt them together I'll have a double width groove at the seams.

Also, do I just caulk the seams?

Maybe I should return these and get the T-111

I would greatly appreciate any advise.

Thanks Terry

 

The James Hardie website has complete installation documents.

 

When you look at their instructions online, you will find that they recommend that their product be installed a minimum of 6" above grade. They also recommend 2" clearance above things like steps or rooflines. You can certainly install it right down to the cement, but it will not be under warranty if any problems develop. As with most products, it cannot tolerate constant wetting. An alternative might be to install a cedar 1x6 skirt across the bottom of the opening first. Then cap the 1x6 with a drip cap before installing the Hardipanel.

Your seams simply butt together and must be sealed with sealant that is compatable with fiber cement. Again, the requirements are listed in their instructions. I use OSI Quad or Geocel ProFlex. A 1x2 batten can be installed over the seams if you prefer that sort of a look. But then you'd want to make sure the seams are symetrical- centered on the opening, if possible.

Fiber cement will likely outlast any type of T1-11 since it holds paint far better and will need to be painted less often. It's a good product at a great price.

 

thanks for the reply,

I was hoping to avoid using battens because the opening is about 8' 10" wide so it would be tricky to evenly space. But if I just butt joint and caulk, the grooves at the seams will be twice as wide as the pattern on the rest of the board, unless I cut the groove off of one side of the seam.

Can I cut the panels with a regular carbide tip circular saw blade?

 

There is a blade specifically made for fiber cement. Found at the home center stores.

Get a shield for your face and wear a respirator. VERY dusty.
Cement dust is dangerous to your lungs.

There are shears for cutting fiber cement that attach to your drill. Used with a "fence" to keep itstraight, it is the best, cleanest and easiest way to cut. It costs about $100 and well worth it.