Going W Hardie siding and have a couple of questions

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Old 10-18-07, 02:30 PM
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Going W Hardie siding and have a couple of questions

I am going to go over my existing wood siding w/ Hardie. My siding that I have now is flat and 3/4" thich, so I think it will make a good backing for the Hardie. My questions are as follows:

1. Is there anything in particular that I should be aware of when going over the old siding other than the usual (replace rotten boards, check for termites)?

2. I already have a moisture barrier behind the old siding and plan on putting another over it before hanging the siding. Is there any problems with doing this?

Anyone with experience that can lend some advice would be appreciated.
 
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Old 10-18-07, 07:20 PM
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Welcome to the forums! You about have it covered. There should be no problem in a double barrier, since it breathes only in one direction, and keeps moisture in check. Be sure to install it with the print side out. It will be redundant, but will help keep your exsiting siding from becoming more deteriorated.
 
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Old 10-18-07, 11:07 PM
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Have used the siding over two buildings on our property and like it.

Some suggestions:

There are shears built for fiber cement siding and costs around $100. Don't saw it. The dust isn't really good for the lungs. The shears clamp over your drill and with a speed square to keep it even, is very easy to use.

I also bought some guides (not too pricey) at thelaborsaver.com which are very useful.

A nail gun is the only way to go. Set the depth a little shallower and plan on pounding a few the rest of the way it occasionally. Trying to hand nail the stuff is painful.

No matter what paint you get (even the new thick stuff from Lowes at $30 per gal.), the primed stuff still needs two coats to make it right.

After I was through and before painting, used Polyseamseal adhesive caulk (white) and fingered caulked at all joints. It really looked good.

Don't forget to leave the bottom row the breathing space so when strong wind forces water through the siding ( the reason siding needs good underlayment) the water can drain, drip or breathe through the bottom course.

You can buy 1/4" thick pressure treated strips from Lowes bundled in about 10 pieces in six foot lengths (1 1/2" wide) to use on the bottom course to "kick out" the pieces so there is a more uniform appearance of the angle top to bottom. They are brittle, but using a nail gun and roofing nails works but one can't nail too close to the edge.

For the top pieces, I took a small bit, pre-drilled holes, used small finish nails and caulked over them. After several years, they're holding fine.

Tried all kinds of rollers (doing a 4200sq ft. add soon) on the outbuildings to see if anything worked. I had a guy spray it for me on one of them, but it was a real mess and one really needs to cut the paint by 10% or it wont go through the gun well. Brushes finally worked best for me.

I would not recommend the fibercement trim. Once you nail it, its forever and removing nails or covering the holes to make it look better because of the texture is impossible without ruining the board.

There is something called (like) Miratec I'm now using for trim which is a new composite sold by 84 Lumber that comes in 4" 6" and 8" widths I really like.

If you can, make sure you keep the receipts if they deliver the siding. Every time they ruin the edges or break a few that sit in the middle. At the prices we pay, returning some isn't a bad thing.

Keep it well protected from the rain before you hang it. If the stuff gets real wet, it breaks very easily.

Good Luck! I think you'll be pleased with the appearance.
 
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Old 10-20-07, 10:22 PM
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WOW! This is some great info guys. Thanks!! Didn't know that about the Hardie trim, I'll have to check into that Miratec.
 
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Old 02-12-08, 06:24 PM
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hardie shingle half round

we are putting the hardie plank on the house, replacing that nasty old masonite mess that is falling apart. my question , i would love to put the hardie shingle half round notched panels in the eave, but i have not been able to find it anywhere, does anyone have any ideas on where to get this? any help would be great. thanks
 
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Old 02-12-08, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by chandler View Post
Welcome to the forums! You about have it covered. There should be no problem in a double barrier, since it breathes only in one direction, and keeps moisture in check. Be sure to install it with the print side out. It will be redundant, but will help keep your existing siding from becoming more deteriorated.
My understanding that except for StuccoWrap® and DrainWrap™, as long as they are properly lapped over itself and adjacent materials Tyvek does not care about orientation or face direction, see for example the DuPont™ Tyvek®: FAQ :

"13. Can DuPont™ Tyvek® be used with the lettering facing in?

DuPont™ Tyvek® HomeWrap®, DuPont™ Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, DuPont™ Tyvek® DrainWrap™ and DuPont™ Tyvek® CommercialWrap® are equally effective in both directions..."

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Constru..._builders.html
 
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Old 02-13-08, 03:50 AM
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The link didn't work, but although we have been told since it came out to put print side out, if the manufacturer says it is ok, then I stand corrected. I do advocate taping joints even if it has an overlap, which may be redundant, too, but in a good wind it could help in preventing tear off. It could very well be putting the print side out extols the advertisement only. Ever thought about that? Thanks Michael.
 
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Old 02-13-08, 06:59 PM
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Sorry about the link, they moved the FAQ:

Tyvek FAQ
 
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