Hardie Plank

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Old 04-10-08, 07:23 AM
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Hardie Plank

Has anyone ever installed Hardie Plank over existing siding (siding is T1-11). If so, did you have any problems installing it or post-installation? Would you recommend it? And how did it look?
 
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Old 04-10-08, 04:26 PM
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Hello and welcome to the forums!

No, I've never installed Hardi over T1-11, but perhaps someone will come along who has. I'd think you could install Hardi over the existing, provided the existing is in good condition.

The only problems I could foresee would be the depth around doors and windows.

You could also contact the manufacturer.

Connie
 
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Old 04-10-08, 05:09 PM
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As Connie so astutely mentioned (how's that Connie?), the relief of your window and door trim will be your largest problem. If the projection of your trim is at least 1/2", then you should be ok, but it is doubtful you have that much. This would mean retrimming all the windows and doors, and that would be a pain.
 
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Old 04-10-08, 07:04 PM
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Oh, that's great, Larry...now instead of a "guyette" I'm a "stute"! Thanks, thanks a bunch!



 
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Old 04-18-08, 11:02 AM
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I have a hardi plank problem--space betweeen boards to large to hold cauk--need cover or placer. Help
 
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Old 04-18-08, 12:35 PM
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Too large to hold caulk? Does this mean the gaps are wider than 3/8"?
 
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Old 04-18-08, 07:09 PM
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hardi plank

yes--caulk will not stay nice over the season changes--need something to cover that looks okey--
 
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Old 04-18-08, 07:54 PM
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Rather than the size of the gap being the problem, I'm wondering if it could be that an improper type of caulking has been used.

Hardiplank's instructions regarding caulking says:

"For best results use an elastomeric joint sealant complying with ASTM C920 Grade NS, Class 25 or higher or a latex joint sealant complying with ASTM C834. Caulking / Sealant must be applied in accordance with the caulking / sealant manufacturer's written instructions or ASTM C1193."

Sounds technical, but all one has to do is check the label of the caulking and ensure that those ASTM standards have been met by the sealant being used.

I've had good success using OSI Quad, perhaps you'll have better success if you use a different type of sealant than in the past.
 
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Old 04-19-08, 03:28 AM
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If the problem isn't solved using XSleeper's suggestion, you may have to resort to installing some sort of batten across the joints and between to make them symmetrical. You can use Miratek, or strips of the Hardie plank to cover the gaps.
 
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Old 04-19-08, 11:50 AM
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hardi plank

tried covering with hardi plank--to thick--need a thin material so when painted will blend in--have over 30 gaps to cover--any ideas.
 
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Old 04-20-08, 05:51 AM
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Good morning,

Could you use foam backer rod to fill the depth, then caulk the surface and paint to match?

Connie
 
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Old 04-20-08, 12:09 PM
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hardi plank

Thanks--will try that foam backing rods but still think the answers is to cover space with thin wood material and paint. A company did make a metal strip for siding in the 80's I have seen in on houses--thin and looks okey when painted. Ever seen it??
 
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Old 04-20-08, 03:41 PM
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Yes, we've all seen those dividers. They are made for thicker hardboard siding, not for cement siding which is only about 5/16" thick. All the advice that has been offered to you seems to be steering you in the same direction, so do what you want with it. The reason no one is suggesting that you add strips onto the siding to cover your gaps is because anything you add on top of the seams will create a shadow line and make them stand out and be even more obvious. If that is what you want, then who are we to stop you.

Caulking the seams is the best way to make them blend in, so perhaps you should consider the advice given. Sorry your gaps are so wide, and that certainly isn't standard practice to have gaps so big, but unless you want to redo all the siding, a good expansion joint caulking (elastomeric) should have no problem filling the gap. I highly doubt that backer rod would be needed, since the hardiplank is so thin to begin with. But you might want to stick a long strip of flat galvanized flashing behind the joint, if at all possible, so that you aren't sealing the hardiplank to the sheathing, or to the pieces above and below. Then be prepared to tool the joint flat, perhaps touching up the edges with paint thinner as needed. (paint thinner, since I'm assuming an oil based elastomeric sealant will be a better choice than any latex caulking could ever be.)

Addendum: The only type of "joint cover" that I could find can be viewed HERE. I can't speak for how well it works or looks.
 

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Old 04-22-08, 09:44 AM
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hardi plank

Thanks all--ordered 5 joint covers and will caulk a few--paint and see what looks and LASTS the best.
 
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Old 04-22-08, 12:19 PM
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?

I will be tearing off the weathered and rotten T-1-11 sheating on my home and replacing all of the windows this summer. Once the new - construction windows are in place I will be hardie planking the exterior. I want to keep the old soffit and fascia (made out of alluminum). Is this okay.....will it react bad to the hardie plank product? Should I use a frieze board at the roof line or not?? Thanks for any help. Did not mean to jack this thread but I thought you got your answer and wanted to piggy back....thanks.
 
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Old 04-22-08, 03:50 PM
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totouchantler,

Your aluminum soffit and fascia has a factory finished paint on it so I wouldn't worry about putting hardiboard up against it. If it was bare aluminum, that would be another matter. When in doubt, just use a strip of #15 felt or Tyvek to separate dissimilar materials, or leave an 1/8" gap on top, which you will caulk.

You could use a frieze board if you think it will look okay with your style of home.
 
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Old 04-23-08, 05:51 AM
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Thanks

Thanks Xsleeper......what about installing the final piece of siding.....when I have worked with this product in the past the lead installer would go from the bottom of the house up. I was never around for the complete job so never saw how you install that last piece. My assumption is that is would be unlikely to be the perfect width and therefore need to be ripped to the right width....is this true. And secondly how would you nail that final piece in place.......seems like you would have to face nail it but the nail would be at the top and not the bottom??.....then set the nail and caulk the hole....is this true??
 
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Old 04-23-08, 11:01 AM
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totouchantler,

The top piece of siding may vary in width, depending on how straight the house is. If the existing soffit isn't level and your siding is, you'll obviously have to cut the top piece to fit.

But you can do it several ways. Sometimes a taper becomes quite obvious on a narrow piece, so sometimes it may be better to cut the piece straight (or split the difference by putting HALF as much taper on the top piece as you need to) then install the top piece straight with the soffit. It depends what looks better visually. What is most important is keeping the bottom edge of that top row arrow straight, not going up and down following a crooked soffit. So if it means custom scribing each piece, that's what you do.

One thing to keep in mind is that if the top piece is narrow, it will not sit at the proper angle unless you put a shim behind it. So, for instance if you're using 8 1/4" hardiplank and your final row is only 3" wide, you will need to nail up a 1/4" thick strip or something along the length of the house before you install that last piece. If you don't, the piece will be tipped in 1/4" too far, which will open up a gap along the bottom edge where it laps over the piece below. The wider the top piece gets, the less important the shim becomes.

And yes, the final piece is face nailed. As to setting and caulking the nails, I let the painters worry about that. IMO, the nails should not be overdriven, as per James Hardie's instructions. I don't mind leaving them flush and painting them.
 
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