Textured 111 Siding


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Old 09-09-09, 01:53 PM
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Textured 111 Siding

Hi,

Would like to know if anyone here has stained T-111 wood siding panels in the past. I'll be using them fro the walls on a wood shed and want to stain. Thx

FC
 
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Old 09-09-09, 03:45 PM
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Sure you can stain it. It is a royal PITA, but with a long nap roller and a brush for the stripes, you can do it. Now, if you have a paint sprayer.....then you can do it faster! Marksr will be here after supper, so he can advise better on types of stain.
 
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Old 09-09-09, 04:05 PM
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From what I have read and heard, none of the manufacturers of 303 siding, including t1-11, recommend staining plywood products, since stain provides less protection than paint.

That being said, some people stain it anyway because that is the look they are after. But be forewarned that unless you stay on top of maintaining the finish every single year, the life of your siding will be decreased.

I think they say most stains have an average life of 3 yrs, while your average paint averages 7 yrs on rough surfaces like textured t1-11. You would be wise to treat the bottom of the siding and the first 4" along the bottom of the back side with a weatherproof primer that will give you better protection in those areas that you'll probably never be able to prime/paint again.
 
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Old 09-10-09, 03:16 AM
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XSleeper is right! most if not all T-111 manufactures state primer and paint must be used and not stain. T-111 can look nice stained but stain doesn't provide a thick protective film like paint does..... and remember, as nice as it looks, it's still plywood.
 
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Old 09-10-09, 03:39 AM
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See, told ya they'd be here. Good advice. I was thinking mainly not of the transparent stains, but the solid ones.
 
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Old 09-10-09, 04:33 AM
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Even a solid stain doesn't protect the T-111 as good as primer and paint although it may give better protection than a semi-transparent stain.

fyi - I've painted a lot of T-111 and don't ever recall needing a brush for the 'grooves' I'll use a 1" nap roller, slop the paint on letting it run into all the grooves and then back roll with the roller cover mostly dry to dress it up. It takes a little more paint that way but generally a thicker coat of paint = a longer lasting job If you apply by spray you still need to back roll [or brush] to work the paint into all the grooves and rough texture.
 
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Old 09-10-09, 09:45 AM
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Thaknkls everyone. Any suggestions on a good weatherproof primer and external paint? I was thinking of going with BM. I know the consumer reports recently ranked Behr's as #1, even over BM which was surprising.

FC
 
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Old 09-10-09, 11:41 AM
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I don't know......nothing I hate more than scraping paint, especially on a 26x40' garage.

Built my garage 20 years ago last July, and I've used nothing but solid color oil stain on the T1-11. Still looks great. Might have to do it more often, every 5 years or so, but it beats scraping.

Baldwin
 
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Old 09-10-09, 12:52 PM
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Thanks Baldwin for the insight....
 
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Old 09-10-09, 02:16 PM
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I'm not real familiar with BM coatings but I'd recomend a good oil primer followed by 1-2 coats of a decent grade of latex paint. With SWP, I'd use A-100 oil primer and either super paint or duration for the top coat.

I've never had to scrape much T-111 but when I have - a wire brush works best. A solid oil stain would probably protect better than a solid latex stain since oil coatings give more protection against moisture penetration. Here in the south the oil stains tend to fade quicker than latex does.
 
 

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