Wood siding replacement help

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Old 10-19-10, 07:17 AM
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Wood siding replacement help

I am needing to replace some rotten wood around the exterior of my home and I'm planning on tackling it this winter. The eaves and facia boards are no problem, (I've dealt with those areas on other homes). However, I also have a span of wood paneling up front with the vertical grooves. I don't really feel like messing with large 4'x8' panels and was thinking of utilizing individual boards, also running vertical. Is there any reason I couldn't, or shouldn't do this? Also, I have no idea of what to expect when I pull off the old panels. Will there be horizontal slats that the panels are nailed to? is there typically a space where insulation is placed? I just don't know what to expect. Any help from some of you guys that have done this would be great. I've attached a couple of pics for reference. Thanks.



 
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Old 10-19-10, 07:20 AM
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Oh and my wife and I keep saying we need to do some landscaping and such but she is hung up on wanting to paint the house first. Soooo, obviously, I need to get the wood in good shape before painting.
 
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Old 10-19-10, 12:12 PM
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You'll have regular vertical framing under the 4x8 panels. If there is any blocking between the studs, there probably isn't more than one per cavity - you'll need more if you apply boards narrower than the stud spacing [should be 16" centers, could be 24"]

You could install strapping horizontally along the studs and add foam insulation between the strapping. Bringing the wall out 3/4" might cause issues that would need to be addressed at window and door openings.
 
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Old 10-19-10, 01:33 PM
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Hey Mark, thanks for your reply. So the framing for the exterior wall is directly behind these panels in the pic? Which would mean if I were to remove these panels and pull out whatever insulation is between the framing studs I would be looking at the backside of the sheetrock for my sons room then? I figured there would be something in addition to that in between there, (maybe another layer of ply or something). I'm just not that familiar with what all goes into making an exterior wall.
 
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Old 10-20-10, 06:34 AM
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While it's possible there is plywood/osb behind the panels, more than likely the panels are nailed directly to the studs and yes, if you remove the panels and insulation - you'll be looking at the backside of the drywall.
 
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Old 10-20-10, 07:31 AM
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Gotcha, I was thinking standard practice was a plywood sheathing directly to the frame. I may look into adding something else before the siding then. Thanks
 
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Old 10-20-10, 05:21 PM
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The wood siding you have now, is it a sheet product or individual boards?
 
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Old 10-21-10, 07:06 AM
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It's the sheet product right now.
 
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Old 10-23-10, 05:55 PM
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If itís just the bottom few inches thatís rotted you can cut out just the bottom foot or so and replace with plywood. Install a house wrap over that (I prefer 30# felt) and then install your new lap siding and trim over that.

If you do this you should block the seam so you can retain the full perimeter nailing and the shear strength of the wall.
 
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Old 10-23-10, 08:13 PM
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I think you should replace it with new sheet siding like you have. Unless you don't like the look. Anything else will involve more work.
 
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Old 10-25-10, 05:47 PM
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3270, what you have on there is T1-11 a structural panel siding, meaning you don't need sheathing under it. Adding new siding thickness between the window bucks would be easy. You can add some metal flashing, house wrap, and new siding right over it. Don't replace it, use it as a sheathing to keep your wall in check (it's #2 job- #1 being surface siding). It looks original to the house- '60-'70. Check inside the door to the electrical breaker box for a date of inspection- do not remove the panel cover.

You can match the old grooves with the new siding. Remove the T1 on the windows, and install the new siding. Rain water running down the window or the jamb trim rotted out the siding below. Possibly because of lack of caulking at trim/window joint. Be sure to back-prime the new siding and leave room to use backer rod at window/siding joint before caulking. The old caulk along the window bottom appears to have prevented the water from draining at the jamb, keeping it behind the trim to rot. Individual board and batten siding around the window would be a bad choice here, unless using rough-texture panel plywood (T1-11 without the grooves) and just adding battens for detail. Have you had any ice dams?

Gary
 
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Old 10-26-10, 07:22 AM
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GBR, Thanks for the reply, (and everyone else as well), I am leaning towards just pulling the trim, ripping off the siding around the windows, and just siding over the area between the windows and then re-siding the window areas. I know the house wrap would go everywhere but where would the metal flashing go? And I'm not sure exactly what a "ice dam" is. sorry
 
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Old 07-20-11, 02:55 PM
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I realize this thread is a little old but I just came across it and thought I'd throw in my two cents. I had a couple of sheets of reverse batten siding replaced on my house to fix an area that was rotting. I thought there would just be the studs underneath, but there was some kind of wood sheathing under it with felt paper over it. It wasn't regular plywood. I can't remember what the guy called it. And I know that this is all the original siding on the house.
 
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Old 07-20-11, 03:53 PM
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Builders and accepted building practices can vary by locale. Even codes can be different between regions or even as close as city vs. county.
 
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