Siding job gone bad


Old 05-30-12, 09:23 AM
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Siding job gone bad

Hi everyone, I wanted to get some professional opinions on a siding job I had done about 10 mos ago on my dad's house.

siding pictures by dustydelrosario - Photobucket

Here are some pictures of the things that concern me the most. First of all I pulled one of the nails that were used as finish nails throughout the entire job and took it to the Lowe's hardware dept and asked what kind of nails they were. They were paneling nails used for the indoor wood paneling you see in older homes. All of these nails are rusting as you can see from some of the pictures.

None of the top pieces of siding are nailed. I noticed this and complained and the installer came back and nailed under the bottom lip that snaps into the piece under it in a few spots to keep the top from sliding off. As you can see from the picture, that didn't work so well. From what I've seen on the internet it looks like the proper way is to use some sort of hole punch tool to put holes along the top edge for nailing. Is that correct?

Sometimes they mitered the corners of the j-channel, sometimes they didn't.. I don't see any reason not to miter it, but is it common practice to just butt the joints like this?

This shows the j-channel on the soffit and on the wall creating an awkward corner along the entire run. I just wasn't sure if this was the best method for doing this. And also the top piece has that serial number stamp on it hanging out, is there something they should have done differently here?

Siding was cut short in a few places, this one was particularly bad. The whole area just doesn't look very professional to me.

This was a problem I called them about 2 months or so after the job. All of the posts were wrapped in metal but the 2 seams flared out and looked horrible. (this picture was taken after they came to fix it)

And this was their solution. Put a nail every 2 inches to hold down the bowed edge. At least the new guy used the proper nails instead of the panel nails like the one seen in the middle that is rusted.

I'm not sure about this one. Again it was something that just didn't seem like the best solution. I know it's a really sharp angle as the roof on the screen porch is not steep at all, but is there a better way to cover this corner rather than just cut the j-channel a foot short and leave the wall exposed?

Same here, wasn't sure if there was a better method for doing this corner of the wall. The raw wood on top was added after the job while I was rescreening the porch to cover the top of the j-channel in my attempt to make it look more finished.

The rest of the pictures, again, can be seen at siding pictures by dustydelrosario - Photobucket

Lowes is sending someone to go over these problems, but they're also the ones that did the job, so I wanted an outside opinion. Even the hardware guy tried to cover for Lowes when I told him why I was there after he told me the nails were for indoor paneling, saying "Well.. they are painted so I guess they could be used outdoors..."

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Old 05-30-12, 10:16 AM
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Welcome to the forum.
Unfortunately I am not a pro, but wow, definately not a job I would accept as done. Being a larger company, I'm guessing they back their work with some sort of warranty?
If not, there are legal means that could be taken.

Hopefully the pros will pipe up with what should have been done in each case highlighted in your photos.
Good luck.
Old 05-30-12, 11:16 AM
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It looks terrible.....IMO.

Here's a hint when dealing with the Corporate types...."Would you accept this on your home?". If they say yes..they are lying and you should ask for pictures of their house.
Old 05-30-12, 12:36 PM
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Thanks for the reassurance, guys. I'm not much of a complainer, but this just didn't look right. I'm hoping that a vinyl siding guy can kind of clue me in on how some of these things should be addressed so that I can call them on it and make sure it's done right instead of just patched up.
Old 05-30-12, 01:14 PM
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Well...I don't think we have any Pro's who JUST do siding....but we have folks who do enough general contracting work that they will be able to help. After they get home from work of course.
Old 05-30-12, 03:15 PM
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Brant will be in shortly, after he finishes baling hay, or whatever they do in his part of the country He does more than I do, but I would not have this on my dog's house, sorry. Do not give an inch on your demands to have it done right, or done over. This is terrible.
Old 05-30-12, 04:20 PM
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Larry, we couldn't bale hay today, it rained this afternoon. LOL I've done my share of siding but have tried to avoid it the past few years since I've found nicer work.

This is a great example of why I avoid vinyl soffit... it just doesn't look very good when you have to turn corners, like in pic #4. Aluminum soffit installation usually looks cleaner.

The top pieces of siding should be stuck into either a finish trim or a utility j-channel, and the tab punch you mentioned would keep the siding from coming down. Occasionally when neither trim will work a dab of silicone in the interlock will hold the siding forever... just pray you don't have to take it down. (depending on where the cut edge is, sometimes dutch lap is problematic and can't go in a finish trim, especially if there is a taper on top)

The top pieces of siding should not be nailed, because vinyl siding has to move. This is why installers use the tabs, or use a few dots of silicone since it can stretch.

Butt joints can be used sometimes, but it usually looks best to miter corners.

The "awkward" corner looks bad because of the crappy vinyl soffit (the vinyl soffit j bumps things out needlessly) and their poor miter job looks even worse when the vertical j-channel isn't plumb. Not to mention the siding wasn't cut long enough to match the angle. The serial number, well that's either bad layout, or they wanted to use the nailing fin, and didn't bother to cut another 3/4" of siding to cover that up. Occasionally when the siding terminates like that I will either install a double j-channel (one under the other) to kind of lower the layout and hide that... or if I have to use the nailing flange, it needs another narrow piece of siding installed, and it can be siliconed in place since it's too tight for a finish trim or a utility j.

The metal on the posts bows out because the installer didn't put the correct tension on it when he bent it. Wrapping posts like that is tough but it can be done and should look better than that. Nails are always kept to a minimum because they look bad. When you see a lot of nails it says something about the skill of the craftsman.

Sharp angles like that can be created on a table saw with the use of an abrasive blade. You can make it so sharp that you could spear a fish with it. The bottom one should run clear through to the point of the angle, and the top one should butt into the top of it with a corresponding angle.

The wood you added looks problematic since it sits flat it will either hold water and might even let it run backward. The installer probably should have taken some time to discuss this and should have added a sill or a sill nose that extends beyond the face of the siding, then wrapped it prior to installing the siding so high.

Panelling nails should never be used outside since they are not one of the following: galvanized, stainless steel, or aluminum. Generally the only nails used with trim coil and/or siding are painted stainless steel and aluminum nails.
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