Questions for My Cedar Siding Refinish

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Old 06-11-12, 03:58 PM
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Questions for My Cedar Siding Refinish

I am starting this week to get my cedar siding cleaned so it can have enough time to dry for new stain next week. Meanwhile, I have a couple of questions.

This siding is from 2005 and has probably never been maintained since then. I also know that there is no "paper" of any kind under it. Now, I've read that, at least for new cedar, it is best to stain all surfaces prior to installation, but my intent at the moment is to just do the outer surface. We will be using a solid color stain much like what we did on a previous deck. I am thinking to leave the heavy work, pulling it all down and adding tar paper, for the next round in a couple of years. Then I can do the back sides, as well. Will that two years make any difference if stained only on the front?

Also, all the trim was caulked with silicone on top of the planks rather than into the joints, and much of it has pulled loose. I can see how that might be appropriate to allow expansion to pass beneath the caulk, but it would have to stick much better than it has. How should the board ends be sealed?

 
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Old 06-11-12, 04:04 PM
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The main reason for staining cedar on all sides is to limit staining from tannin bleed..... but since the siding has been up for a few yrs, I don't think it will be a big issue. I would be concerned that if you remove the siding, you'll wind up replacing more than you could reuse

Will the solid color stain be oil base, waterborne or latex? light color or dark?

The caulking looks correct although it should be pushed into the crack some to give a better seal. Remove what's loose and recaulk. If you use silicone, caulk after the staining is done.
 
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Old 06-11-12, 05:06 PM
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I would never use silicone. Almost anything would be better. But when caulking to a vinyl window about the only thing I'll ever use is OSI Quad. It's available in colors if you need to get something close to your siding color.
 
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Old 06-11-12, 05:09 PM
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I would certainly agree that bleeding should not be an issue by now. Hopefully, the lack of a weather barrier beneath has not created a problem, but I will pay plenty of attention to the ends and trim areas for water sealing.

The stain is a water bourne deck stain, lighter shade and gray color. My wife liked how it worked on our previous deck so much she decided it would work here, too.

I thought due to the stiffness of the caulk that it may intentionally go over the top rather than into the gap just to prevent expansion from bowing the wood. Is there a particular type that might be better for this?

The corner trim boards are just 2x6 and the cedar boards butt up to those. Is that the typical way to trim? No 1x? to cover the ends perhaps?
 
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Old 06-12-12, 03:51 AM
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There are 2 different ways that corners are handled, one is to have a board thicker than the siding that butts up to it and the other is to use a 1x that is nailed up over the siding. I think it's mainly the builder's or customer's preference..... I'm a painter not a carpenter

I usually use a siliconized acrylic latex caulk on the exterior, White Lightning is my brand of choice. I agree that OSI Quad would be better although it will cost more and might be harder to find in a small town

Sometimes tannin bleed can be an issue with light colored latex stains, I'm not sure how waterborne fairs. While I've used a lot of waterborne on decks, I don't remember ever using a light colored waterborne on cedar siding. If tannins bleed thru the stain, the fix is to use an oil base primer to seal in the tannins.
 
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Old 06-16-12, 07:56 AM
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Thanks for your comments. I was just thinking that perhaps, for caulking purposes, having a 1-by covering over the end of the boards would provide a more complete and secure way to seal while still allowing any expansion to pass freely under the cover. I have no intention of doing anything about it now, unless I find something as I go along that makes it necessary. As it happens, I still have a couple of tubes of Quad from last year's vinyl project that I intend to use when I get there.

I am about half way through the power wash end of this project and have a couple additional questions. 1) I noticed that if I come back a while after the initial scrubbing pass just to rinse again, the water comes off still pretty yellow. Do I need to keep rinsing until it runs mostly clear, or is this just incidental? 2) While I am trying to minimize forcing water up under or around the ends of the boards, obviously it is not possible to avoid. Will it cause much trouble with the sheathing (especially at the corners) to have this one-time wetting?
 
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