What is this, how did it happen, how do I fix it?

Hi. There are two windows that are on the side of the house that gets the most sun. These windows are part of the exterior wall of the attached garage.

Please take a look at the attached photos. This window trim is not too old. Can you tell me what is on this trim, is it some kind of a mold or a mushroom? I have never seen anything like this before.

How did this happen to the trim?

How do I fix this unsightly trim?

Thank you for your advice.

 

Waterlogged and rotted. Remove and replace. Is there no roof over hang at the windows?

I would use well dried pressure treated wood for replacing the trim. Some do not like to use PT wood because it may shrink and joints open a bit but re caulking can fix that.

I never use 45 degree corners on outside trim because it is to easy for water to run in between the seams. I alway make the top full width of the window plus width of side pieces and butt the side pieces against the bottom of the top trim.

Had I done it I would have made a faux window sill on the bottom not a piece of 1x4. To make the window sill rip a 1-3/4" wide strip from 2x4 at a 7 degree bevel ~ 2" longer then the window width plus trim width. Butter with latex caulk and fasten with counter sunk screws. Note bottom of side trim must also be beveled 7 degrees.

 

Thank you for the good advice. This side of the house and the other side of the house do not have a roof overhang.

 

One of the stupidest ways contractors save money.

I hope that siding is not plywood or worse hardboard or its only time before it starts bowing out and rotting at the bottom. Keep your fingers crossed and the bottom edge well painted.

I was editing while you were posting so you might check that you read everything I wrote.

 

Once you remove the molding, you will see more damage, almost guaranteed. You will, then, need to figure out how to rectify that as well. This was not the ideal window for such an installation, as it has a j channel built in for vinyl siding. As Ray said don't miter the corners. Trim the bottom first, with the molding the width of the window. Then the two sides the height of the window plus the width of the bottom molding, and run it all the way to the bottom, and place the top across it all. That will allow for proper water flow. Ideally you need flashing on top of the molding, but the T1-11 won't allow it. You will need to caulk across the top, and sides to help alleviate water infiltration. If you caulk the bottom, leave a couple of spots without caulk for "weep" holes for lack of a better term.
Unless you can get a drip sill to fit properly, it may not work, since this type window wasn't made for a sill.

 

I use a window sill tilted 7 degrees to shed water with the sides resting on it. Chandler use a 1x4 on the bottom that runs between the side. If a sill won't work then Chandlers method is best. I'm just old school and think windows look weird without sills.

 

Ok, I removed the trim. Like some said, the wood underneath is damaged. I need your advice. I am a novice. I think I can replace the trim in the manner suggested in the posts. However, what can I do about the wood underneath that is waterlogged and rotted. Not all of it is, some of it is. Do I sand it? Do I paint it? I don't think I can "cut out" the damaged parts and replace.

Thanks for your advice.

 

More pictures please so we can better understand.

 

Ya, more pics will help us help you. Paint won't fix rot It's got to be dry and solid before you cover it up with paint/trim.

 

Yep, more pix. Cutting out the damaged wood and replacing it with good is best, but you may have a problem of having something to attach it to. It will be covered by your trim anyway, but the trim needs the support..

 

Ok. Here are photos of the wood underneath the trim. I have read that Bondo may serve as a good fix. Any thoughts on that? Remember that I am a novice with this type of work, ok.

Thank you for your advice.

 

That is 4x8 siding. Best practice is to remove the whole panel and replace. After you have it off you can check the framing for damage and see if the insulation is damp and moldy.

Just to clarify in my opinion there is no really good way to patch this type of siding. Even using "Z" strips it ends up looking patched. In this case you need to remove it any way to see what is going on underneath.

Just wondering is this the back side of a house with brick on three sides. I see that all the time down here. If so and you can afford it I'd recommend having the whole backside bricked.

 

It kind of looks like there are 2 sheets of siding at each window [4 total]
Bondo can work but you must first remove any/all rotten wood. It has to have solid dry wood to bond to. I mostly paint and don't often repair siding so wait and see what the others have to say.

 

I agree with both Marksr and Ray in that the siding could be replaced in its entirety. However, bondo will make an acceptable repair if it goes to solid wood. It looks as if you may encounter some.
NOW to the fun part. I am not sure why a contractor would put windows like this in a house that was to be sided with T1-11. They are for vinyl siding and that is why you are having problems. After you bondo it, you will be placing molding around the window again. Ascertain the width of the molding. On top of the window, cut the siding laterally to the groove on either side of the window stile at the top of your proposed molding, down and back to the window. Remove that section temporarily. Insert brick mold or z flashing under the siding and replace the piece you removed. You now have flashing over your molding that won't let water get behind it all. Bondo all the boogered wood, sand it and prime/paint it, and reinstall your molding, caulking it where it meets the window and on the outer edge.

 

And if you really don't want to do it all again in a few years, install a "creative"* roof overhang that keeps the bulk of the water away from the wall.

* Meaning something that cantilevers from and blends in with the existing roof, without penetrating it.

 

BridgeMan45 Opined: I agree one hundred percent. As i said in post #4 One of the stupidest ways contractors save money is by not putting an overhang.