Anyone here installed wood siding THEMSELF?
#1
Anyone here installed wood siding THEMSELF?
It doesn't look too hard to install cedar lap siding but I know there are a huge variety of ways the professionals deal with moisture. I can look at photos all day long and not learn what's behind or in what order the many pieces went up. For example I was watching some Youtube clips on installing cedar siding that showed attaching spacer strips on the sheathing over the stud locations before hanging the planks. This was to insure drainage and good ventilation. Spacing the siding 1/2" away from the sheathing seems like overkill to me. My bro-in-law claims he used to tack up vertical strips of 30# roof felt for the same reason and this does seem a little more sensible. I don't want to build a cozy home for every bug & even bats by creating a big space behind the siding.
And so many other questions about materials & methods.
Everybody has opinions...how do I find out what works?
And so many other questions about materials & methods.
Everybody has opinions...how do I find out what works?
#2
What you are looking for is a breathable water resistive membrane, similar to Tyvek. I would not put in spacer strips as they will be a PITA and won't solve anything. What you can do is once a row is in, place a strip of tyvek over the joint, down to where it won't show with the next row. It will help keep water from going back behind the siding at that joint.
#3
StuccoWrap provides a good drainage plane behind siding that is superior to flat housewraps... But the spacers (rainscreen) is even better because it allows more air to circulate behind the wood siding, extending the life of the finish. Bugscreen or cor-a-vent along the starter course eliminates the bug problem.
#4
Group Moderator
We had a thread on this maybe a year ago and I think the consensus was felt was a better choice under cedar than Tyvek type housewrap.
That said, spacing is even better, as X said.
That said, spacing is even better, as X said.
#5
I would agree with the spacing, but the only drawback would be the window and door frames. Has that been addressed, yet. Spacing and the siding may protrude past the molding.
#6
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Have you considered HardiePlank?
I buuilt an addition to a 1930's house and used HardiePlank Siding. It is more expensive than wood, but looks the same, if fireproof, rotproof, and very good looking. It comes in various widths and lengths and it can even come prepainted. It paints well and the finish lasts alot longer than when wood is painted due to les expansion and contraction. Also it does well in high wind if installed with additional nail pattern. I installed most of it by myself using "Mean Greenie" Suction cups and a roofing nail gun with hot dipped galvanized nails. It looks fantastic!
#7
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Under siding
I use Both Tyvek and 30 pound felt, I tyvek first then felt starting at bottom and overlapping on next piece up by 4-6 inches. Also where the ends of siding meet I put felt behind that, covering 6 inches on each side of joint and 6 inches above joint and carry down almost to the bottom of that row.
#8
The walls of this cottage are already at least 7" thick (6" logs + shimmed 3/4 ply for flat substrate under the siding) and I'm going to add almost 1.5" of cedar on top of that. I really don't want to bump it out another 1/2" with furring if a thick strip of felt would provide all the drainage I need and keep the cedar off the wrap.