How to repair screw holes in Hardiplank
#1
03-12-13, 05:29 PM
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How to repair screw holes in Hardiplank
Our telephone utility box (that was screwed into our hardiplank siding has come loose --- the screws pulled out and have left 2 holes. What can I use to fill the holes so I can re-fasten the screws to the siding?
Thanks!
Barb
Thanks!
Barb
#2
03-12-13, 06:22 PM
Welcome to the forums! Longer screws. Apparently when the box was reattached to the siding, the same screws that held it to the OSB were used, and are not long enough to do the job.
#4
03-12-13, 09:22 PM
Screws don't really "fasten" to the siding, (which is only 5/16" thick and cement siding is not a very good material to hold threads) they fasten to the studs or the sheathing behind the siding. If it's not the length of the screw that is the problem then maybe you just need to get a couple screws that are larger diameter so that they will hold.
If you wanted to patch the hole I'd probably just caulk it, but if you wanted it to set up hard, use a stick of jb weld or similar and shove the putty in the hole. Then you can drill a pilot hole in it once it's hard.
If you wanted to patch the hole I'd probably just caulk it, but if you wanted it to set up hard, use a stick of jb weld or similar and shove the putty in the hole. Then you can drill a pilot hole in it once it's hard.
#5
03-13-13, 05:26 AM
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Thanks for the info... the holes are not clean holes (i.e., the fiber cement crumbled leaving about a 1/2 inch opening so I will want to patch them and re-drill.
The screws in the utility box are appr 1 inch long.
Just to ensure I get the right stuff --I need the J-B WELD 2 oz Epoxy Adhesive (has 2 tubes that are mixed together)?
Thanks so much!!
The screws in the utility box are appr 1 inch long.
Just to ensure I get the right stuff --I need the J-B WELD 2 oz Epoxy Adhesive (has 2 tubes that are mixed together)?
Thanks so much!!
#6
03-13-13, 06:37 AM
I would think you'd want the regular JB Weld, not the adhesive. X should be along later to say for sure 
I like to use tooth picks 
I usually whittle myself a little wedge of wood
#7
03-13-13, 02:53 PM
Or golf tees, broken off when they bottom out.
1" screws are definitely the problem. Solve the ugly part, then attack the problem with longer screws....at least 2".
1" screws are definitely the problem. Solve the ugly part, then attack the problem with longer screws....at least 2".
#8
03-13-13, 03:34 PM
Here often no sheathing is used under cement siding. Nothing but house wrap underneath. Probably not true where the OP is but (s)he needs to make sure there is something besides cement board to fasten to.
#9
03-13-13, 05:09 PM
No sheathing... that would be really crummy. Those have to be some very wavy walls.
I was just thinking of the stick of jb weld that you kneed, then press into place. (like steelstik or woodweld) That way you can push in just the right amount and push it into the hole. Maybe shave off the excess with a putty knife before it gets hard.
I was just thinking of the stick of jb weld that you kneed, then press into place. (like steelstik or woodweld) That way you can push in just the right amount and push it into the hole. Maybe shave off the excess with a putty knife before it gets hard.
#10
03-14-13, 06:42 AM
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I purchased JB Weld epoxy that comes in 2 tubes (red and black) and are mixed together to form a gloppy paste. In looking online now, I see that there is a "J-B Stik Weld" that only seems to be available online. The Steelstick and Woodstick seem to apply to fixing metals and wood, respectively.
Is there another product that I could find at Lowe's that would work on fiber cement?
The hardiplank was installed over our old T-1-11 siding, so the 2" screws should work.
Thanks for all the suggestions :-)
Is there another product that I could find at Lowe's that would work on fiber cement?
The hardiplank was installed over our old T-1-11 siding, so the 2" screws should work.
Thanks for all the suggestions :-)
Last edited by Barbara Ryan; 03-14-13 at 07:12 AM.
#11
03-14-13, 04:57 PM
Steelstik and Woodstik will stick to a variety of surfaces, as the package indicates, which is why I suggested them. I don't think they list 100% of the things it will bond to.
You could also use PC-7 epoxy, which comes in stick form. Ace carries it, dunno about Lowes.
The trick to getting it to stick is to smear on a thin layer of it onto the repair first, so that you are sure it is bonding well to the substrate, which will likely be chalky. Once you've smeared a thin layer on and it sticks, you can glob the rest on, then shave it off smooth.
You could also use PC-7 epoxy, which comes in stick form. Ace carries it, dunno about Lowes.
The trick to getting it to stick is to smear on a thin layer of it onto the repair first, so that you are sure it is bonding well to the substrate, which will likely be chalky. Once you've smeared a thin layer on and it sticks, you can glob the rest on, then shave it off smooth.
