Installing exterior door
#1
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Installing exterior door
Question about installing exterior doors. I have a wall I framed up and will sheath it with Zip Panels. My question is after I install the door (pre-hung)how do I flash around the door frame and studs? I also was planning on installing 4/4 hardie trim but don't know if that will work/fit????
#2
Depends. It would help if we knew whether your door has brickmould or if it has nailing fin.
Also as mentioned in your other thread, 5/4 will work a lot better than 4/4.
Also as mentioned in your other thread, 5/4 will work a lot better than 4/4.
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I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. The door just has a frame about 1" thick. I was just going to install it so the frame is flush with the Zip panel. Then I figured I could use the 6" Zip tape to flash the frame and panel connection. Don't know if that is correct though?? I have 2 doors I need to do. Good part is that both doors are under a soffit so shouldn't see too much rain.
#4
Yeah that doesn't really answer the question, but I am guessing that maybe what you are saying is that the prehung door doesn't have a nailing fin and that it also doesn't currently have any brickmould on it.
Often, the brickmould will be nailed onto the outside of the door jamb, and it will kind of act like a nail fin of sorts, to hold the door jamb even with the exterior sheathing. One way to flash doors that already have the brickmould applied to the jamb is to tape the back side of the brickmould so that it hangs over the edges, sticky side facing toward the exterior. When the door is installed, the tape that was hanging over is now sticky side out... and you can then apply another layer of tape over it, to completely seal the door to your WRB (your zip-system sheathing).
As an aside, 6" zip tape is a real waste. I would be using 4" tape.
Often, the brickmould will be nailed onto the outside of the door jamb, and it will kind of act like a nail fin of sorts, to hold the door jamb even with the exterior sheathing. One way to flash doors that already have the brickmould applied to the jamb is to tape the back side of the brickmould so that it hangs over the edges, sticky side facing toward the exterior. When the door is installed, the tape that was hanging over is now sticky side out... and you can then apply another layer of tape over it, to completely seal the door to your WRB (your zip-system sheathing).
As an aside, 6" zip tape is a real waste. I would be using 4" tape.
#6
You can, but you can't put more than 1/2" of the zip tape onto the jamb... your brickmould will have a 1/2" reveal where it lays over the jamb. Doing it the way I suggested is better because the tape seals itself to the back of the brickmould, so water can't get behind it and rot it from behind.
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OK so I was going to use the Hardie trim. Would that be considered my brick molding? If so do I nail that to the frame and then caulk on the inside and then install the tape sticky side out like you said?
#8
If you are using cement trim I'd probably opt to put it on each piece of trim as it is installed. Your top piece of trim would normally have a drip cap (z-flashing) over it but if it's not possible for the top of the trim to ever get wet, that can safely be omitted. And yes, you'd run a fine bead of painter's caulk around the perimeter. I hope you don't ever want to put a storm door over this door. Screwing a storm door frame into the cement trim would be a real pain. Plus, the trim HAS to be 1" thick on a door if you intend to ever mount a storm door on it.
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Thanks. In FL doors swing out so can't do a storm door anyway. The doors I'm installing are fiberglass impact rated. The doors they sell around here at home improvement stores don't have that brick molding on them. I'm guessing because of the outward swing???