Hardie panel for board and batten look?
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Hardie panel for board and batten look?
I am debating between 1x12 cedar and hardie panel for board and batten look for an addition. Is there anything resembling wood that I could overlay real wood batten to get a better look in the Hardie line?
I like the fireproof aspect, and maybe the cost. Wondered if anyone has done this, and had pros and cons.
I like the fireproof aspect, and maybe the cost. Wondered if anyone has done this, and had pros and cons.
#2
I have used hardiepanel and then the cement 4/4 x 2.5 hardietrim (rustic or smooth) for the battens. 16" on center if you want to nail it to the studs, or you can go 12" on center if you use ring shank nail and nail 3 out of 4 to the sheathing only.
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Do you remember the type of panel? My framer is trying to talk me out of the cement battens but to use regular wood for that for aesthetics. But he eventually said to forgo the hardie panels to go with smartboards because of the dust. But I think smartboards are just treated, and will not be fire resistent.
Did you like the look and was it a huge pain to work with?
Did you like the look and was it a huge pain to work with?
#4
Hardiepanel smooth.
Aesthetics is not his reason. He probably just doesn't like cutting the cement with his good saw (understandable) or doesn't like the dust. Or doesn't own a siding gun. Or has never / is afraid to use the cement board. Sounds like a typical framer. Wants to use the wood blade in his skilsaw for everything. He wouldn't work well with the architects and designers around here. When it's on the prints, framers don't make design suggestions or specify the materials used. So IMO you need to make the final decision, not him.
The cement looks fine and holds paint great, provided you follow the installation instructions and avoid putting it where you shouldn't (like too close to the ground or roof or sidewalk). Smooth cement and smooth battens paint up really nice, which I would think is what you want. The rustic battens are okay but IMO they look a bit fakey. It's not a huge pain other than it's noisy and dust to cut (use ear muffs / dust mask if you can't keep the wind at your back).
Aesthetics is not his reason. He probably just doesn't like cutting the cement with his good saw (understandable) or doesn't like the dust. Or doesn't own a siding gun. Or has never / is afraid to use the cement board. Sounds like a typical framer. Wants to use the wood blade in his skilsaw for everything. He wouldn't work well with the architects and designers around here. When it's on the prints, framers don't make design suggestions or specify the materials used. So IMO you need to make the final decision, not him.
The cement looks fine and holds paint great, provided you follow the installation instructions and avoid putting it where you shouldn't (like too close to the ground or roof or sidewalk). Smooth cement and smooth battens paint up really nice, which I would think is what you want. The rustic battens are okay but IMO they look a bit fakey. It's not a huge pain other than it's noisy and dust to cut (use ear muffs / dust mask if you can't keep the wind at your back).
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We were planning to rock veneer it, but were unable to find rock we liked to go with the original, which is no longer available. So not on a plan. I may try to do some of this myself, hence my joining this forum. I appreciate your input. It is an ancient looking Sunday house, if you know what that is, so rustic may be the way to go. Still unanswered question about using cedar battens over the cement panel? and is there a more esthetic spacing? I can go 12 inches pretty easily and come out even, or less if that's more pleasing. It's only a 14 foot addition.
#6
Nope, never heard of a Sunday house- i'll have to google that. The textured hardietrim battens would look more rustic and so would cedar. IMO it just makes no sense to use cedar on cement. One will hold paint for 25 years the other will peel and need painting every 5-7 years. Its a maintenance issue, not whether or not you "can do it". But if you like to paint I would say go ahead.
#7
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I like to paint but it's better to paint to either freshen it up or change colors than have to do all the prep [extra prep when it's peeling] so you can paint the wood so it won't rot!
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Well, here in arid central Texas, cedar pretty much holds its own without painting. The original section of the house is cedar, and its gotten a crazy pretty patina on the inside, and weathered grey outside. No rot at all. Built 30 years ago.
But the Hardie board is about 50 bux a sheet here, with a forty foot minimum from Lowe's. How often does that need painting?..I may just stucco it and be done with the maintenance.
But the Hardie board is about 50 bux a sheet here, with a forty foot minimum from Lowe's. How often does that need painting?..I may just stucco it and be done with the maintenance.
Last edited by otjtrainer; 05-23-14 at 01:32 PM. Reason: spelling
#10
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Cedar has tannin bleed so if you intend to use any light colors you'd need to use an oil base primer first! Latex is fine for the top coat. I agree with priming all sides. There are a lot of factors that determine how long a paint job will last. Obviously with proper prep/application a top of the line finish will last a lot longer than the cheap paint. The weather it is exposed to also plays a part. A quality paint job should last 5-15 yrs.