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Old vinyl siding installed over even older unknown siding? Help please!

Old vinyl siding installed over even older unknown siding? Help please!

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  #1  
Old 09-21-14, 02:49 PM
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Old vinyl siding installed over even older unknown siding? Help please!

Hey guys!

I'm in a bit of a pickle. I have a vinyl siding that was installed over some other crappy siding (see picture below) and some green foam board. I just finished framing the side wall on my home extension (that's the stud you see on the right in the other pic below), and was getting ready to put the house wrap on it -BUT- I was worried about water getting in that corner because of the old siding, and decided to pull the green foam board and old siding out and the stud that was over it on the new wall.

My question is what should I do? It looks like the old wood siding the new vinyl siding is installed over extends all the way behind the vinyl siding along with the green foam board. Since it's not a flat surface, I have no idea how I should extend the house wrap through the corner? I really, really don't want to have to take off all the vinyl siding on that side of the house too, so what should I do to make sure to keep water out?

Here's the pictures of what I'm facing:





Thanks again for any advice
 
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  #2  
Old 09-21-14, 04:02 PM
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Well, the correct way to flash the corner would be to remove the vinyl siding and j-channel and run the WRB around the corner so that it's behind the vinyl siding and foam. Since you already indicated you're unwilling to do that, I don't really know what to tell you.

I suppose you could just run the WRB to the corner and caulk your j-channels where they will meet. You could also make a "minimal" flashing from trim coil and a metal brake that would at least slip behind the j-channel and foam (tuck it behind the foam and j-channel before you apply the sheathing... then slip the sheathing behind that flashing... the flashing won't go behind the j-channel very far since it will hit the roofing nails that hold it on) so that the end of your WRB is protected somewhat.

Not being able to see what the exterior looks like kind of leaves us guessing... if there is something above that would be directing a lot of water to that area it might affect what's best for you.
 
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Old 09-22-14, 09:20 AM
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I think those globs of goop running on top of the old siding are indicative of the 2nd solution you offered and what the people who installed the original wall did. They simply put a bunch of caulk over the old siding where the corner of the vinyl siding met in the middle.

It's not that I'm unwilling to take off the vinyl siding. I'm very new at home remodeling, so I don't want to start down that slippery slope of fixing one thing, which leads to another...and another...and so on.

I guess more than anything though, I want to get the job done right. I've had to experience the shortcomings of living in this house and seeing where the contractor or people who have lived here before me took short cuts. From burying debris all over the yard, to screw/nail pops and falling popcorn ceiling everywhere because the drywall contractor didn't know what he was doing. Point is, if the only way to do it is to remove the vinyl, then that's what I'll do.

So here are the steps I'll need to take to properly fix this. I highlighted some questions that I had along the way:

1) Pull back the vinyl siding, and green foam board at least 2 feet from the corner.
2) Remove the old siding, hoping there is sheathing underneath.
3) Install additional sheathing over the area where the old siding was to act as a spacer (since the old siding on the far side of the windows won't be removed if I can help it, and the surface has to be flat...I wanted to make sure the wall surface stays flat all the way across, and doesn't dip because one side has the old siding under it and the other doesn't).
4) Install caulk between the surfaces where the old siding meets the sheathing spacer.
4) Once surface is flat across, install house wrap through corner, overlapping each 3' tall layer with the top layer by 6". (Is 6" the correct amount of overlap for house wrap, or should I do more or less?). Wrap the house wrap around corners and into door and window frames.
5) Tack in place with staples (I just have ordinary wood staples. (Will those suffice, or should I use some 1" tack nails that have a much larger head?)
6) Use 1.5" house wrap tape to seal the seams.
7) Install additional 6" wide house flashing tape in any areas susceptible to water intrusion (all around windows, door frames, and corners?).

Any steps that I'm missing?

Speaking of one job leading to another and another. I think this may need some attention. It looks like the eave (if that is the correct term for it?) has water damage. Does it need to be replaced? (I'll post a picture as soon as I can)

Thanks again for all your help! I really appreciate you helping a noob like me
 
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Old 09-22-14, 04:55 PM
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if the only way to do it is to remove the vinyl, then that's what I'll do.
Glad to help Jeff, there are plenty of members here who can help you out with your questions.

No, it's not the "only" way... and after reading your 7 steps (above) I can see why you don't want to remove it if you don't have to. You are making it sound pretty complicated. There are plenty of guys out there who don't run Tyvek around an inside corner, and if you caulk the j-channels I'm sure it will be fine. You certainly don't have to take the old masonite siding off just to wrap the Tyvek around the corner. I wouldn't lose any sleep over this one... its just not that critical.

If you'd like to leave the vinyl on, cut your old beaded masonite siding off flush with your siding j-channel. Carefully cutting with a sawzall or multi-tool would be the way to go. When you put the last piece of sheathing up, you might wrap the end with Tyvek prior to putting it up. That way it will definitely go all the way to the corner.

Some guys use hammer tacker staplers... some guys use cap nails. Cap nails probably tear the Tyvek less. Yes, Dupont recommends 6" of overlap. IMO that's a bit much for horizontal overlapping. Can't really say if flashing tape would do you any good as I don't know what kind of windows you're going around. If they have nailing flanges, yes.
 
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Old 09-23-14, 02:58 AM
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Thanks again Sleeper! I really do appreciate it. I'll try the sawzall on the masonite like you mentioned.

Also, yes, the windows are nailed flange windows. I was going to wrap the house wrap into the window frames, then install the windows with caulk, and then put the tape over the flange - overlapping it as I go (hopefully, that's the right way to do things?)
 
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Old 09-23-14, 06:11 AM
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Hold the sawzall at a low angle (body of the saw close to the siding)... use a 9" long blade (to allow you to cut at a lower angle)... don't cut all the way through the siding all at once (or you risk cutting into the sheathing too deep). Once you cut most of the way through the siding you can break it off and then you can probably cut the rest off with a utility knife since it's just glorified paper.

On the window tape, you make a 6" cut in the tyvek on top (at a 45, up and away from the upper window corners) then fold that flap up, temporarily pinning it up with a nail. Then install the window... then install the window flashing tape directly to the sheathing/nailing fin... then fold the flap back down and either skip tape it or solidly tape it (with the 2" seam tape) to the nailing fin.
 
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