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I Need Advice Regarding T1-11 Panel Replacement and Flashing

I Need Advice Regarding T1-11 Panel Replacement and Flashing

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  #1  
Old 10-30-14, 09:01 AM
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I Need Advice Regarding T1-11 Panel Replacement and Flashing

Hi. I need some advice. I am a novice DIY. I have an exterior wall that has T1-11. The windows were not flashed nor trimmed properly. There is flashing at the bottom of the T1-11 but there is not enough of a downward slope, so water collects in the joint between the T1-11 and flashing. Because of the lack of window flashing and the poorly angled flashing between the T1-11 and the foundation, I need to replace two of the T1-11 panels that are around the two windows.

I have a neighbor with a similar house and I have attached photos of how they connected the flashing from their T1-11 to their cement flashing. They have an opening on either end of the flashing, presumably to allow for air circulation. My neighbor's set up has worked for quite a while.

My questions-
1. Can I replace just the two T1-11 panels that are damaged, I don't want to replace all the panels.
2. Would using a product like dry-lock paint help to water proof the T1-11 and make it last longer?
3. What type of flashing material did my neighbor use, where can I purchase it? It appears to be a lightweight metal.
4. What type of product did my neighbor probably use to adhere the flashing to both the T1-11 and to the concrete foundation?
5. I only have basic tools. Are there any special tools I would need for this project?

I attached pictures of my house, showing where the damage to the T1-11 is and I have attached pictures of my neighbors exterior wall. The paint color is similar for both houses, my house has the two windows. I would ask my neighbor what materials were used, but it was done by a contractor a number of years ago, so they are not sure about the details. Thanks for your advice.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-30-14, 10:19 AM
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That might be RB&B instead of T1-11, how far apart are the grooves?

Drylok isn't formulated for wood. It's always best to use an exterior oil base wood primer on that type of siding as it does a better job of sealing the wood than latex primer. The oil primer can be top coated with latex.

Often you can buy flashing already pre bent and I think they're normally installed with roofing nails at the top .... but I'm a painter, not a carpenter - they should be along later.
 
  #3  
Old 10-30-14, 10:48 AM
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The grooves are about 7.5 inches apart from each other and the grooves themselves are about .5 inches.
 
  #4  
Old 10-30-14, 02:59 PM
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Ok it is T1-11, the 8" spacing rather than the more common 4" RB&B has a wider groove and the flat part is 10-11" wide.
 
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Old 11-01-14, 12:03 PM
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Nobody has advice for me?
 
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Old 11-01-14, 04:40 PM
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I would snap a line above the damaged panel, cut it all the way across the side, slip in z bar flashing and new T1-11 under it, along with wide flashing to take the water over your trim board. I definitely do not like what your neighbor did, even if it is working.
 
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Old 11-01-14, 05:10 PM
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Thanks Chandler. Yes, I agree that the neighbor's fix is not aesthetically pleasing. I guess it was function over form for them.
 
  #8  
Old 11-14-14, 07:43 PM
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t1-11

looks like that bottum trim might be a problem. were it me i would replace with steel siding if i could costly, but never worry bout rot. smartside is good too, but must be painted. either way whole wall looks bad at bottum. and would also use house wrap or 30# tar paper under siding. good luck
 
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