Cedar shake siding
#1
09-06-16, 03:50 AM
Cedar shake siding
I am fixing up a 110 year old house that has cedar shake siding which I am going to have repainted. I am replacing many of the old shake panels that are damaged but don't know what to do with the corners, which have opened upon a couple of them. It seems like just remaining them would not work without some kind of cap. They are 5 inch exposure. I have seen the cedar caps which I could install on top via a cedar valley type company but they are very expensive. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#3
09-06-16, 04:21 AM
I wonder if you could consider placing a few facia boards in the corners to terminate the shakes evenly, by creating a "corner post". It doesn't have to be very elaborate; but would solve your problem.
I mention it because I'm currently re-painting an 1832 house with cedar clapboard and we just solicited input on the color of paint(s) to use on our Corner Posts or Pillars in another Forum:
Seeking Opinions on House Corner Posts - Paint Treatment - Realtors Marketing Tips, Talk, Webmasters Forum
You might goggle "house corner posts" for ideas along that line.
I mention it because I'm currently re-painting an 1832 house with cedar clapboard and we just solicited input on the color of paint(s) to use on our Corner Posts or Pillars in another Forum:
Seeking Opinions on House Corner Posts - Paint Treatment - Realtors Marketing Tips, Talk, Webmasters Forum
You might goggle "house corner posts" for ideas along that line.
#4
09-06-16, 05:01 AM
Group Moderator
Put a 2x6 cedar on the front corner, overhanging by 1.5". The butt a 2x4 cedar to the 2x6 to finish the corner. This is similar to Mark's suggestion but a 1x might not be thick enough to the cedar shakes thickness.
#6
09-06-16, 06:23 AM
So here are the corners that I am talking about...I actually framed out a screened in porch and used Cedar Valley 8 foot cedar shake siding to try and match the house (relatively close) after its painted. For those corners, I bought the Cedar Valley corner pieces (photos attached) and that works great (and easy to put up) but they cost $10 per linear foot. What do you mean by 1xs? I cant do one long piece up the corner.
#7
09-06-16, 06:27 AM
Tolyn: So essentially you are suggesting to create the same thing that I bought from Cedar Valley but to make it myself? And just caulk and pin nail it up? Or would I need to use an adhesive also?
#8
09-06-16, 06:31 AM
Vermont:
I don't think I want to get into cutting all of them to get the corner posts in. It is a 3 story house and all of the corners don't need the help, only the most weathered ones.
Marksr:
Just cut some cedar into 1 inch strips x 6 (to account for overhang)? Would pin nailing/caulk suffice? Or were you suggesting a different wood?
I don't think I want to get into cutting all of them to get the corner posts in. It is a 3 story house and all of the corners don't need the help, only the most weathered ones.
Marksr:
Just cut some cedar into 1 inch strips x 6 (to account for overhang)? Would pin nailing/caulk suffice? Or were you suggesting a different wood?
#10
09-06-16, 08:03 AM
I'd probably use a 1x4, you can either prenail them together and install them as one unit [like your prebuilt corner pieces] or install one side at a time. A pin nailer might be ok for nailing the ends together but you'd need a common galvanized nail to attach it to the house.
You can use most any type of wood you want although cedar will last longer than pine.
You can use most any type of wood you want although cedar will last longer than pine.
#11
09-06-16, 08:29 AM
Most of it is actually in good shape for its age. The rough looking stuff was under a poorly drained flower box for years and needs to be replaced. I think I will cut down cedar and install the two sides directly to the corners. Thanks everybody!
#12
09-06-16, 08:32 AM
Group Moderator
The rough looking stuff was under a poorly drained flower box for years and needs to be replaced
