Reparing rotted wooden siding trim/sil

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Old 10-31-16, 05:58 PM
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Reparing rotted wooden siding trim/sil

So a small section of siding trim (which is very close to the window) has rotted. I have chiseled and sawed away the rotted wood.

Photos of the rot after some sawing and chiseling:

http://imgur.com/a/bR5de

So now I'm looking to fix this before winter hits. I'm located in Eastern Ontario, so lots of snow, and the wall is north facing.

Here is my plan, please let me know if I'm missing anything crucial:

1. Insert a piece of wood, 4 1/8th of inch in height and cut to size, into the vertical trim gap. Caulking will be applied to the back, top, and bottom of the wood piece. Nailed it in. (making sure to nail to the wood stud, not the metal drip edge).

2. For the small area to the bottom left, either cut out a rectangle section, and insert another piece, or fill in the gap with exterior wood filler. Still deciding.

3. Caulk and repaint.

Now, I just have a few questions:

A. looking at 4th and and 5th picture, it looks like the bracket that is used to hold the under-window sidings has a gap in it due to the way it is nailed. There is also a gap that go directly into the walls. I suspect this might be one of the areas where moisture is coming in. When the wind is blowing in the right direction, the water falls into the bracket, and then flow towards the trim/sil, causing the rot.

The holes are slightly bigger than my index finger. What would be the best way to seal the hole so water can't get in anymore. Can I just fill the section with huge amount of caulking before nailing in the piece of wood? What about window insulation foam?

B. Would it be worth while to put in some adhesive flashing tapes or tar paper at all the places where I can? The trim is close to a window, but they are not quite window trims. I noticed that there is some old left over tar-paper that has already disintegrated.

C. What caulking would everyone recommend? I have Dap Alex plus silicon. The can says interior and exterior, as well as water proof. Just wondering if anyone would recommend any better alternatives? I live in Canada, so selection might be limited by that.

Thanks.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 06:13 PM
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Can you post a picture from farther back so we get see what the whole area looks like?
 
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Old 10-31-16, 06:33 PM
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Hello, here are the individual links to the pictures in the imgur album. The third picture is in context of the whole area.

http://i.imgur.com/WFtp89Z.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nbzIviG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GsjWDLv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZgpYpMa.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/6ULwt9s.jpg
 
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Old 10-31-16, 06:41 PM
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That looks to be a panel rather than siding. Can it be removed? It appears to be held in with screws.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 06:46 PM
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Didn't try to remove the entire section, not sure if it is nailed in or screwed in.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 06:47 PM
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It's a vinyl j-channel with vertical vinyl siding (unvented soffit). If you plug up the end of that j-channel, it will fill up with water, freeze, and break. If you plug it up, you would need to drill some 1/4" weep holes in the front of it so it can drain out the front. Yes, water currently would spill out the ends. There are currently 2 open ends. The left end of the j-channel is pictured, so if you want to caulk one end up, it will just force all the water out the other end on the right side of the j-channel, which is also open ended.

I would use OSI Quad. No idea if it's sold there.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 06:54 PM
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It's a vinyl j-channel with vertical vinyl siding (unvented soffit). IF you plug up the end of that j-channel, it will fill up with water, freeze, and break. IF you plug it up, you would need to drill some 1/4" weep holes in the front of it so it can drain.
Thanks, how was it draining before the wood was rotted? The wood would have pressed tight against the end before it rotted, and if water flows out, wouldn't it be dripping behind the concrete sil and into the wall?
 
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Old 10-31-16, 07:10 PM
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probably............................................................
 
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Old 10-31-16, 07:45 PM
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Can you slip a piece of aluminum flashing over the existing (lead?) flashing and extend it behind the window trim? Also, instead of wood do the repair with PVC...remove the entire rotted piece and replace with PVC. A patch job will eventually leak. Can you tell how high up the rot extends....water could be getting in higher up the wall. Best if you could remove the entire panel and get the joint between the panel edge and window trim protected with ice and water membrane.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 08:05 PM
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Hm... never worked with PVC trim before. Can you nail it, sand it, and cut it like you would with a piece of pressure treated wood? Would it be easier to work with? Just wondering since the existing wooden panel trim is also about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch in terms of depth, not sure if I can find pvc trim of that thickness here.

Pretty sure I got all the rot on the trim. The wood at where I cut were all very solid, took a while to get them out. The wood on the bottom left side were chiseled out until solid wood was reached, although I will probably cut out a rectangle section. Idealy the whole panel would be replaced, with ice and water shield put in behind it, but that repair is unfortunately a bit beyond my skill level and scope right now.

Not sure what you mean by behind window trim. Do you mean plug the hole with vinyl or alumiun trim + caulking?

Thanks.
 
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Old 10-31-16, 10:23 PM
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Also, forgot to ask.

What size galvanized penny nail should I use. I don't have a nail gun, so will be doing it the old fashion way with a hammer.

The depth of the trim is 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches, would 8d at 2 1/2 inches be my best bet?

Thanks.
 
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Old 11-01-16, 03:42 AM
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What caulking would everyone recommend? I have Dap Alex plus silicon
I'm partial to to the 'White Lightning' brand of caulk. I used to use DAP but had too many failures. The OSI Quad is better but not everyone sells it.
 
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Old 11-01-16, 05:26 AM
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PVC is very easy to work with regular wood working tools. Not sure what goes on in Canada but it is used quite a bit down here in place of wood for house trim. It takes paint very well and is not affected by water.....check the palces where you buy your wood. Behind the window trim.....visualize the flashing at the bottom of the panel extending to the right and go under the window trim. Get a caulk that will handle a lot of movement (stretch).
 
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