Zinsser Peel stop thick primer?
#1
04-19-17, 06:16 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 892
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Zinsser Peel stop thick primer?
I've got peeling grooved cedar shakes on my 1971 ranch house and it's difficult to strip since they're grooved shakes. I posted pictures of the siding somewhere on the forum, but I can't remember where. Someone said they're not actually cedar all the way through, but have a cedar layer and the back sides are some other material.
Anyways, I was looking through google and someone recommended to someone else about "Peel stop thick primer" or something. I guess I can just strip the real bad parts that are coming off and then paint over with this primer? Zinsser has it for about $60 a gallon I think.
Anyways, I was looking through google and someone recommended to someone else about "Peel stop thick primer" or something. I guess I can just strip the real bad parts that are coming off and then paint over with this primer? Zinsser has it for about $60 a gallon I think.
#2
04-19-17, 06:35 AM
I don't recall ever seeing cedar siding that was laminated, all I've ever painted/stained was solid wood.
Generally washing and wire brushing is enough prep.
Here's the page from Zinnser PeelStop - https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...inding-primer/
Generally washing and wire brushing is enough prep.
Here's the page from Zinnser PeelStop - https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...inding-primer/
#3
04-19-17, 09:05 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 892
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
I don't recall ever seeing cedar siding that was laminated, all I've ever painted/stained was solid wood.
Generally washing and wire brushing is enough prep.
Generally washing and wire brushing is enough prep.
Should I just use regular primer? A lot of the house DOESN'T have peeling paint. Do I just scrape/peel off the loose paint and then prime and paint?
Thanks a lot! Maybe hire someone to prep it?
#4
04-19-17, 09:31 AM
Depending on what needs to be cleaned off of the siding I normally use bleach, TSP [detergent] or both. I apply the cleaner with a pump up garden sprayer and rinse with a pressure washer - a hose will also work. Is the existing sound paint chalky?
Removing peeling paint usually takes a combination of scraping and using a wire brush.
Removing peeling paint usually takes a combination of scraping and using a wire brush.
#5
04-20-17, 04:49 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 892
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Is the existing sound paint chalky?
Another question.
1. If you have parts that are 'good', do you put primer over the old paint or do you just do (2?) coats over the old paint?
#7
04-23-17, 11:02 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 892
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
So if paint is stuck on good, I shouldn't be scraping it off correct? I mean it will usually come off if I scrape at it or start picking away at it, but it's been holding up on most of the house for years before we bought it a couple years ago.
#8
04-23-17, 11:07 AM
A lot depends on how much time/money you are willing to spend. Generally I get a little more than the worst of it off, then prime and paint. Often the fresh coat of paint will lock down the rest of the old paint. Might not be as good as stripping it all down to bare and starting over but considerably quicker/cheaper.
#9
04-23-17, 03:10 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 892
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
A lot depends on how much time/money you are willing to spend. Generally I get a little more than the worst of it off, then prime and paint. Often the fresh coat of paint will lock down the rest of the old paint. Might not be as good as stripping it all down to bare and starting over but considerably quicker/cheaper.
Should I get them in 5 gallons increments?
What about primer?
I'm also thinking maybe to get some estimates just for the heck of it to see how much they charge and or how much they charge to just prep or get some of the bad areas off. If it's a lot, I'll just do it by myself this summer and buy paint and stuff myself.
I think to clean I'll just use some bleach like you said and a garden sprayer them use a garden hose to rinse it off. Most of the house is pretty good. I'll put up some pics hopefully in a few days or so.
#10
04-24-17, 04:31 AM
Most paints cover 400 sq ft of slick sealed substrate per gallon. Siding will require more because the it's not smooth and the fact that it overlaps means there is more surface area. It's hard to say how much paint it will take for a house not seen. I like buying paint in 5s but there is no sense it buying more than the a gallon or two more than you will need.
#11
04-24-17, 05:59 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 892
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Should I use flat or satin? The paint is of course uneven in certain areas due to someone that had attempted to remove paint before the current layer. It's not extremely bad looking, but you can see it up close.
#12
04-24-17, 06:09 AM
Flat paint won't highlight rough looking areas like satin will. I've always preferred either flat on the body and satin on the trim or satin on the body and gloss for the trim ...... but there aren't any set rules.
#13
04-28-17, 05:27 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: United States
Posts: 892
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
We've got a company coming to give an estimate on painting next week. Something"pro", I can't remember.
What I want to do is get a couple estimates and just to see what this job may entail. I think I'll do it myself, but I'm really leaning towards having someone do the prep as this is grooved cedar and it's not REALLY bad, but looks like there might be a couple layers of paint and someone painted over the old paint that wasn't entirely removed in a lot of places.
I'd say 40% of the house has paint that was 1/2 removed and then painted over. From 30 feet away it looks ok, but when you get up close not so great.
What I want to do is get a couple estimates and just to see what this job may entail. I think I'll do it myself, but I'm really leaning towards having someone do the prep as this is grooved cedar and it's not REALLY bad, but looks like there might be a couple layers of paint and someone painted over the old paint that wasn't entirely removed in a lot of places.
I'd say 40% of the house has paint that was 1/2 removed and then painted over. From 30 feet away it looks ok, but when you get up close not so great.
#14
04-28-17, 05:35 AM
Better prep usually results in a better paint job BUT the more fastidious you are about the prep the more labor there is involved which increases the cost. Many contractors will increase the price dramatically if they think the customer wants them to go beyond what is normal for the job.
