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Created a mess attempting to remove/replace wood window sill.

Created a mess attempting to remove/replace wood window sill.

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  #1  
Old 04-27-17, 08:39 PM
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Created a mess attempting to remove/replace wood window sill.

Hello,

During my exterior renovation project, I've already replaced five of the windows in my house. Funds are tight and there are still a lot of materials to buy and work to be done. With that in mind, my wife and I decided to keep the old wooden windows in two of our bedrooms. Each set has two casement windows on either side of a fixed pane window. I planned to replace the two deeply checked wooden sills with PVC sills, but as I removed one of the old sills, it broke away in a manner that I did not expect.
I expected that part of the sill that we see from the outside to be a separate piece from what goes under the window frame. But, when I pried the sill away, it was one piece extending under the window which split at about 1/2 the depth of the window.
The following pictures might help in understanding what I am attempting to describe:
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This is what the sill looked like before I started messing with it:
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This is what it looks like after I scored along the front edge (red line in picture above) with a utility knife and then pried it away. The sill was actually one continuous piece extending below the windows (vs. just in front of them):
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This is a side view of the piece I ripped out:
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One of the challenges is that the windows' interior trim has been newly replaced and painted and my wife will burn me with her glare if I wreck that.

So, getting down to my questions, what should I do here? What are my options? What am I likely to encounter if I did deeper behind where I ripped most of the sill out? Should I stop digging now and fill in the gap I've created--possibly with epoxy and then fix a PVC sill onto that?

I look forward to your ideas and suggestions.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-27-17, 09:36 PM
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It appears you removed the sill nosing, which is replaceable. Locate PVC if you can. Works better.Woodgrain Distritubtion WG WDS1 1-3/4 in. x 1-1/8 in. x 96 in. Primed Finger-Jointed Pine Sill Nosing Moulding-10004480 - The Home Depot
 
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Old 04-28-17, 07:42 AM
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Thank you @chandler.
The way the piece split, it "feels" like the part it split away from goes all the way back to the interior face.
When it split, it was not all on the same plane, so, again, it didn't "feel" like I got all of a unified piece.
 
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Old 04-28-17, 09:12 AM
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Yes, chisel off anything that sticks out beyond the sheathing. Epoxy any voids with the goal of making it flat with the sheathing. Make your new sill nose on a table saw, then use long exterior finish screws and a little PL premium or OSI Quad/Max to hold it to the old sill that is left. Then seal the joint between your new sill nose and the step sill above it.
 
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Old 04-28-17, 09:23 AM
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Thanks @XSleeper
If I use a PVC sill nose, will the PL Premium or OSI Quad Max be an effective adhesive (I thought OSI was more of a sealer than adhesive)?
I've read some recommendations for E6000 to adhere PVC to wood, but I have no experience with it.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 04-28-17, 10:35 AM
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It will never come off if you use the OSI Quad / Max. Thats why I suggested it.
 
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Old 04-28-17, 10:51 AM
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Sounds like a plan. OSI Quad/Max it is then. Thanks @XSleeper
 
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Old 05-17-17, 08:36 PM
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How about Bondo Glass?

Quick follow-up question; Would Bondo Glass be a good choice for filling the voids?
 
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Old 05-18-17, 04:00 AM
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Are you speaking of the green stuff? Excellent choice.
 
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Old 05-18-17, 07:39 AM
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Thanks @chandler. Yes, I was thinking of the green stuff (the can on our left in the picture below):
Name:  Bondo-Glass-vs-Wood-Filler.jpg
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I watched a guy on YouTube use it for the rough fill to repair a rotted exterior door jamb. It seems to do the job.
But, I just had a look at the fact sheet for the Bondo Glass and it does not list Wood as an appropriate surface. Now I'm wondering if Bondo Wood Filler (the can on our right in the picture) would be more compatible.

Thanks again for your thoughts.
 
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