Hi, I am in Zone 7 and have a 120 year old home. We are preparing to meet with the contractor to finalize details on our residing and trim capping project and I wanted to get insight from you all. The house will be stripped of cedar, tar paper and old lap to reveal diagonal wood planking. Interior walls are uninsulated lathe & plaster with the exception of an addition (bathroom made in the 60's) which is drywall. We are trying to stay behind the window trim but think some form of insulation would be prudent for an air barrier. Layer 1: Obdyke Slicker HP Rainscreen [url=http://www.benjaminobdyke.com/products/slicker-hp-rainscreen-6-mm/]www.benjaminobdyke.com/products/slicker-hp-rainscreen-6-mm/[/url] Layer 2: 7/16" Smartside Lap siding [url=https://lpcorp.com/products/siding/lp-smartside-trim-siding/products/lap-siding]https://lpcorp.com/products/siding/lp-smartside-trim-siding/products/lap-siding[/url] So, what kind of insulation and where can we incorporate into our building envelope to supplement or replace our current setup? Many thanks in advance. Bridgette

Hello, I've started a couple of threads related to this project. The first one, [URL="https://www.doityourself.com/forum/exterior-paneling-all-exterior-sidings/586774-sill-plate-rim-joist-rot-am-i-big-trouble.html#post2664226"]https://www.doityourself.com/forum/exterior-paneling-all-exterior-sidings/586774-sill-plate-rim-joist-rot-am-i-big-trouble.html#post2664226[/URL], probably gives the best overview if you're interested in the back-story. I'm nearing the point of installing the replacement rim joist. I'm using pressure treated 2x8 and have a couple of questions. [LIST=1] [*]Should I do anything to fasten the top of the rim joist to the bottom plate above it? It seems that, since I need to cut any existing connections between the bottom plate and the rim joist, I should replace, at least, some of them. [*]Should I adhere a butyl based flashing to the face of the rim joist? The existing rim joist was rotted out by moisture collecting between it and the concrete landing in front of it. On one hand, I see the benefit of putting up a protective shield to keep moisture off of the wood. On the other hand, moisture will still find its way into the wood, so I'd be concerned that the butyl flashing would inhibit the wood's ability to dry to the outside. I still don't know what I'm going to do to replace the concrete landing that I had to demo to make this repair. Also, the landing does not cover the entire length of the replacement piece, so maybe I should wait until I know how wide the new landing will be and only flash that section. [*]I'm planning on replacing the sill plate first and then the rim joist. Is there any good reason I should do that in the opposite order? [/LIST] Thanks in advance for any advice you can share.