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Replacing siding, extending eaves on a manufactured home

Replacing siding, extending eaves on a manufactured home

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Old 05-13-19, 09:20 PM
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Replacing siding, extending eaves on a manufactured home

Hello folks, first post and all.

I bought a fixer upper in Nevada, and the more I dig into it, the worse it is. It is a 1992 vintage double wide with sun and water damaged siding. The exterior walls is 2x4 construction on 16" centers.

I want to replace windows, remove the old siding, replace it with 1/2" OSB, and install Hardi board planks over that for sun and water resistance. While I am at it, I want to extend the eaves to help prevent water damage and to eliminate the mobile home look. In for a penny, in for a pound...

I've checked the additional weight of 8mm Hardi board planks, for about 13.5 lbs/linear foot. The additional weight is tolerable.

The old siding is made of what looks like compressed paper, and is about as strong.
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I've started to replace the kitchen window and this pressed paper siding has to go before I finish off the interior walls with new drywall. The top plate is made of a single 1x4 on top of the 2x4 studs.

Question 1: This white band is heavily nailed on about 4" intervals. Is this structural? At this gap it looks like a 2x2 behind the band on the bottom, and perhaps a 2x4 behind the band on the top. Can I remove this band to replace the siding without causing problems with the cathedral roof and 2x4 stud walls junction? The top edge of the siding looks to be barely covered with the white band.




Question 2: This is a high wind area, and I want to extend the eaves 16". What is the best way to accomplish this? I've read a few projects, but they seem delicate and hillbilly carpentry at best.
 
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Old 05-14-19, 06:01 AM
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Welcome! Yes, you can remove it... no, trim is never structural.

As far as adding soffit and extending your rafters, mobile homes are often not standard construction. It is hard to answer until you remove your fascia trim and give us a picture of what you find behind. Ideally, I hope you have at least 2x4 rafters that you can sister alongside.

Your process would be to nail/staple your new OSB sheathing to the studs and top plate first. Do this on the entire wall first. If you want a level soffit, snap a chalk line from end to end and add a soffit ledger... might be a 2X2 or 2x4, cant say. Add your rafter extensions (cut birds mouth if needed). Let them run a little long. After they are all up, snap a chalk line on them and plumb cut them all with a skilsaw. Add a horizontal member to tie the cut end of the rafter tail to the ledger (aligned with the ledger in back, square with the building) fasten to both the ledger and the tail. Add a 2x fascia in front. Add sheathing on top, drip edge, underlayment, roofing.
 
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Old 05-14-19, 09:15 AM
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I've not worked on double wides but the older single wides use a 1x2 truss system for the roof. You'll know more once you remove the siding and fascia board. You should be able to extend the soffit but it might take some thinking to figure out how.
 
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Old 05-17-19, 12:20 PM
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Thanks, guys. I'll be able to get back to this house next weekend.
 
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Old 05-18-19, 04:18 AM
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Third pic shows the top of s window close to the fascia. If this is the highest window, the roof extension can only be such that the framing for the soffit, soffit and fascia does not interfere with the window. Are any of the windows frames trimmed out?
 
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Old 05-18-19, 05:53 AM
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With a 3:12 pitch roof and 16" extension, the bottom of the existing fascia would move down 4", looks like it would be right at the top of the window. A 12" projection might be better so that it only comes down 3".
 
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Old 05-27-19, 07:31 PM
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I got back to this project and got some pics. It is a 2/12 roof, not 3/12. The little window high on the wall is one of those short windows above a shower and tub. Thinking of getting rid of it when I make it this far down the wall.

The siding is made of 4x8 sheets. A 9' sheet would have covered the ends of the rafters.
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The rafters are a prize, made up of 1x2s into trusses. No wonder the roof felt so springy. The sheet rock ceiling is glued and screwed to the rafters.
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Thanks, XSleeper, for the idea of extending these trusses out. A 12" extension should work. A workable plan might be to cut 2x6 about 40" long, and glue/screw them along side these trusses for about 24" or however long I can reach in with a screw gun. Leave them long, run a stringline, and then cut them off.

After that, I will add a 12" wide piece of 1/2" OSB to run the length of the roof. Cover with tar paper, and re-roof in a year or so when my schedule permits.

I'll put gutters on this house this summer, as water damage from that blasted Quest piping and rain caused a lot of settling.

Anything wrong with this plan?

This is the "before" pic before I fell through the wheel chair ramp. The back porch is a death trap and I'll replace it sooner than later. I knew there were a lot of problems when I bought this house, but I did not realize all of it was a problem.
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