Siding repainting (Windows caulking)

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Old 07-13-19, 06:02 PM
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Siding repainting (Windows caulking)

I live in Texas, and this home was build in 2004.

I am about to repaint my home sidings. Already powered wash and used siding cleaner from home depot that I mixed with bleach to spray before power washing. I will do another cleaning treatment before repainting.

Few questions:

1. Next step before painting is caulking and I am not sure if all 4 sides of windows need to be caulk? Even the bottom?

1.1 do I need to leave any part of window without caulk for water flow from rain? Same reason why we dont caulk under each board that is overlapping. Not sure on the windows.

2. Also what about gabs where the siding is cut at a 45 degree or so around the windows. Caulk that?

3. Should I try to remove the old caulk before putting new one on? Some of the corners of the wall for example caulking looks fine, just discolored due to elements over time. I think I will not remove it unless its separating or there are big gabs in the caulking. Same goes for window?

4. If old caulking does not look really bad around the windows, can I just put another layer on it, rather than trying to remove it?

5. I never done outdoor caulking before, I use tape on both side to lay it down usually to get a nice clean spread. Used to go over with my finger and use wet towel. But I could never get it down nice. Any other suggestions?

6. I am not the first owner of this home. Can someone tell me what type of siding is this since if any replacement needs to be done in future. I like to find same or close enough siding. Not sure if Home depot or Lowe's caries these or how to reach out to MFG?

I can add more photos if someone wants to look at the entire home or zoomed in or out more on windows! Let me know. Thanks









 
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07-14-19, 10:36 AM
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If it is soft, replace it. You caulk ALL gaps, everything you asked about earlier, everything you have an arrow on. Anywhere there is a gap, water gets behind the siding where it can mold and rot. That's why it's soft, water has gotten behind it and rotted it. It's not appropriate to patch somethi that's soft... it won't last. L.P. is cheap, just pull it off and replace it.
 
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Old 07-13-19, 06:07 PM
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The answer to all your questions is yes. And like the last time you posted with siding questions, it's LP Smartside lap siding (probably the 38 series) with LP Smartside trim.

When caulking, I prefer to use OSI quad, but it's more of a professional product for ppl who are good at caulking (who don't use their finger or tape). It just doesn't tool well is what I'm saying, and it's oil based so you have to use paint thinner to cleanup. Some people hate it, professionals love it because it sticks to anything and doesn't Crack in a short time like latex caulk does.
 
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Old 07-13-19, 06:13 PM
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Thanks. Yea my bad I should have looked up my old post for siding information. I delayed the project for 3 years and now finally getting to it. Sorry I did edit my post with few additional things:

do I need to leave any part of window without caulk for water flow from rain?
 
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Old 07-13-19, 06:16 PM
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Don't caulk the edges of your screen framing.
 
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Old 07-13-19, 06:31 PM
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OSI Quad is what I bought . Someone locally suggested it. I'm assuming I can still paint it with Latex water based paint once it dries off?

Going to get the paint from sherwin-williams. I was also thinking about using oil based primer as you suggested few years back on the rusted nails or all the nails that are showing now before painting. Can I paint over it with water-based Latex paint even after oil based primer is applied to the nail heads area? You also asked if the paint is chalky and it defiantly is chalky now.
 
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Old 07-13-19, 06:34 PM
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Yes, you just need to wait about 7 days before painting. I would suggest you cut the smallest tip possible on your tube.... barely cut anything off. If you need it larger you can always cut more off. You will have less mess that way.

You will want to quickly wipe with denatured alcohol and a rag before caulking, to clean the chalk off. And our painter , Marksr recommends a paint additive to help promote paint adhesion on chalky surfaces. Flood Emulsabond.
 
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Old 07-14-19, 03:58 AM
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If using OSI Quad I'd keep a rag handy damp/wet with mineral spirits to wipe up any excess caulk and smooth out the caulk after it's applied. IMO that's easier/better than using tape. I normally use a siliconized acrylic caulk like 'white lightning' for that type of job.

It's always best to remove all the chalk but when that isn't feasible you need to coat those areas with an exterior oil base primer or add Flood's EmulsaBond to the first coat of latex paint [or add to latex primer]
 
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Old 07-14-19, 09:01 AM
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Thank you both for all your help.

Looks like I am not seeing anyone sell Flood's EmulsaBond locally by google search. I was told not to use oil based primer and then latex paint on top of that. Unless that is ok when its not the entire siding I am priming? I can try to order Flood's EmulsaBond if there are any brands recommended (link would be great).

Can mineral spirits or denatured alcohol be safely applied on fingers to smooth out the caulk?


My screen framing I will not caulk that since I usually remove them during winter. But I am go to caulk corner where red arrow shows and green arrow shows and in between. I dont need to leave any thing for water to pass any where?

I am assuming I dont caulk where the purple arrows are made in my photo below. I don't think there was any caulking there.



I will caulk the sides and top of the window frame

 
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Old 07-14-19, 09:15 AM
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Sorry for so many questions. Just want to do the job right.

Also while inspecting all the sidings. This window is located on side of the home and I notice the area marked in red only was a bit soft. I did not think its bad enough to replace the entire piece. I am planning to using these two items to fix the small area. Will that do it or should I try something else?

Wood Hardener
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathan...0229/305626727

Advanced Exterior Spackling Paste
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Plat...8741/303781000

 
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Old 07-14-19, 10:36 AM
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If it is soft, replace it. You caulk ALL gaps, everything you asked about earlier, everything you have an arrow on. Anywhere there is a gap, water gets behind the siding where it can mold and rot. That's why it's soft, water has gotten behind it and rotted it. It's not appropriate to patch somethi that's soft... it won't last. L.P. is cheap, just pull it off and replace it.
 
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Old 07-18-19, 04:09 PM
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Thanks all.

Any recommendation on which exterior paint to get from sherwin-williams for my Texas home project? Defiantly looking better quality paint to last long time.

Should I do 2 coats of paint on areas that get regular sunlight? I did order Emulsa Bond online and its on its way.

After how many years do sidings need to be repainted usually if I am not changing colors?

Should I still use none-oil based primer on areas I had to remove paint that was peeling off on small sections or Emulsa Bond mixed with paint should be enough? Same question for exposed nail heads.
 
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Old 07-19-19, 03:08 AM
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I've had good results with SWP's SuperPaint line although their Duration line should be better [I've not used much of it] How long a paint job will last depends on a lot of things. Proper prep and a quality coating are the main things but the environment it's exposed to also plays a part. 2 coats of paint almost always out preform 1 coat.

EmulsaBond should only be added to the first coat of latex [primer or paint] If you have rusty nail heads they need to be coated with an oil base primer.
 
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