Beveled-cedar Siding Installation - Standards unclear

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Old 08-27-19, 02:27 PM
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Beveled-cedar Siding Installation - Standards unclear

Hi - long story short - repairing some siding and replacing some vinyl to create a uniform exterior wall. Based in WI, don't see any specific building codes other than a referral to the Western Cedar Association install guide. Questions.

1) Anyone know if there is a different standard I should be referring to in addition to / instead of? (Assuming not...)

2) Spec requires 2" clearance off of any roof abutment (have 2 90 degree one-story portions to the 2-story wall). Is there any step I should take to make the joint more aesthetically pleasing, or just leave the step flashing exposed.

3) Similarly, spec calls for 1/4" clearance between the top of the siding and any roof/soffit or other joint. Again, leave the tyvek exposed, or cover?

4) Any tips and pointers on tools that would allow consistent hanging of the 6" exposure without chalk marks and humans? Looked at the gecko gauges and they seem more oriented towards hardi-board then 3/4" bevel cedar. I'm guessing there's some inside secret here.

5) Is there a standard configuration for a butt/scarf joint when joining two pieces together? Looks like the original installer used a 45 degree scarf cut at a 10 (or so) degree angle, as opposed to a straight butt. Just don't trust anything this guy did.
 

Last edited by dnspade; 08-27-19 at 02:50 PM. Reason: Additional Question
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Old 08-27-19, 03:20 PM
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It's always best to have the siding set above the shingles an inch or two. You can paint the flashing to make it more aesthetically appealing. A measuring block works well to keep a consistent reveal. A scarf joint often looks better than a butt joint and is how it used to be done, nowadays not so much,
 
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Old 08-27-19, 06:04 PM
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You could cover the step flashing with a custom made counter flashing that is a suitable color.

1/4" on top seems excessive. But if you install a horizontal trim on top, it could have a 1/2" rabbet (notch) in back that covers your 1/4" gap while still leaving room for expansion.

As for gauges, no... you can make your own gauge to space each row off the last but the problem with that is you get a cumulative error. Your best bet if you want everything to be "perfect" is to snap level chalk lines here and there as a reference. You can also make/use a story board.

Scarf joints on cedar are nice and more waterproof, and if you glue them together they are almost invisible. Doing a good job depends on having a good saw and your patience. Butt joints are faster, not necessarily better, and you need to caulk them as you join them. Caulk eventually fails.
 
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Old 08-27-19, 08:52 PM
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This is likely pointed out in your install guide, (haven't read it lately) but is worth repeating...

One of the biggest no no's on cedar siding is that you don't want to nail through 2 clapboards with the same nail. You need to keep your face nails high enough that they are above the top (thin) edge of the siding below. And you should never intentionally face nail the top thin edge as you install each piece.

The idea is the siding width needs room to expand... if you put 2 nails through each piece by nailing too low and catching the top edge of the underlying siding on the row below, you risk the siding cupping (bowing outward... or even cracking horizontally) as it tries to expand.
 
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Old 08-27-19, 08:57 PM
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Wish the original contractor had read the document!
 
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