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Soffit install relative to an out-of-level sub-fascia.

Soffit install relative to an out-of-level sub-fascia.

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  #1  
Old 12-28-19, 11:41 AM
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Soffit install relative to an out-of-level sub-fascia.

Hello,
The soffit material I am installing is Certainteed InvisiVent (perforated vinyl). It's installed pretty similar to vinyl siding--except it faces downward. For my installation, I attach the J-channel to the underside of the sub-fascia. I attach a 2x to the face of the structure (garage in this case) and do my best to align the 2x attached to the structure with the sub-fascia.
The problem is that the sub-fascia is not level.
For the 2x attached to the house, I'm trying to decide whether I should try to follow the contour of the sub-fascia or if I should just create a level line--choosing a mid-way compromise with fluctuations in the sub-fascia.
The attached picture might help explain things:

I created "tick marks" on the side of the house level with the fascia at that point. I then measured from the top of the level siding plank to the tick mark. The roof's lowest point is just behind the camera where the garage attaches to the house. At that point, the sub-fascia is 3 1/8" above the plank. Nearly 3/4 of the way down the wall, the sub-fascia is 4" above the plank (a 7/8" difference!). At the farthest end of the run, sub-fascia is around 3 1/2" above the plank.

So, for the 2x attached to the structure, should I follow the rise (and fall) of the sub-fascia? Or, should I pick a mid-way measurement above the plank (let's say 3 1/2") and keep the 2x level with the plank?

Thanks in advance for your opinions and ideas.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-28-19, 01:40 PM
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I would go level against the wall and allow the soffit material to float along the sub fascia.

Honestly the only way you would notice is if you got down to the ends and sighted down the sub fascia.

Plus whatever material you use on the walls, if that isn't level it has the chance of being more noticable!
 
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Old 12-28-19, 01:59 PM
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Thanks @Marq1. I think your answer, regarding "go level against the wall" is the most practical. I'm not sure what you mean about "allow the soffit material to float along the sub fascia". I think you're saying, allow it to follow its current state of "waviness".

The only other approach I could think of was to affix a taper to the bottom of the sub-fascia (thickest where the sub-fascia is highest relative to the level plank). But, that would be a lot of fussy work and would probably not end up looking much better since it would create an uneven line relative to the bottom of the fascia--which would be apparent when walking out of the garage.
 
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Old 12-28-19, 05:39 PM
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Put up a 2x2 against the house that is level... and hopefully close to level with the bottom of your fascia. Snap a chalk line and make the 2x2 perfectly straight end to end. Fasten your j-channel to that. Add framing as needed between that 2x2 and your fascia that is level. Hopefully your chalk line will be just as level as your siding is so that there is no taper that would make it look obvious that something is crooked. If your siding is level, your 2x2 should be too.

You can also snap a level line on your fascia before you get too far and cut it so that it is straight and level. That is usually the best thing to do when your siding is dead level but your fascia is not.
 
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Old 12-28-19, 07:50 PM
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Thanks @XSleeper.
That's a good idea regarding snapping a level line on the fascia and then cutting it to appear level. I'd need to take the gutter down if I were to do that with a circular saw.
 
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Old 12-29-19, 06:07 AM
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If you are going to remove the gutters then you may as well install metal facia while you are at it and use that to straighten out.

Also why not use a F mold on the building instead of a 2X2 and a J mold.
 
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Old 12-29-19, 06:16 PM
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Good thoughts @manden.
Since the soffit is fairly wide (24"), I need to fasten the middle of every other section to a cross-member (blocking that runs perpendicular to the wall). That cross-member needs to be fastened at the wall, so I need a 2x to toe-screw into.
Metal on the fascia is a good option, but I just replaced the wood fascia with PVC.
 
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