OSB Replacement & Deck Ledger Installation Questions

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Old 04-08-20, 09:14 AM
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OSB Replacement & Deck Ledger Installation Questions

I demolished my deck and while removing the old ledger board realized that it wasn't properly waterproofed/flashed. I have to replace the OSB and in removing the old crumbling OSB realized the ledger was only attached to the OSB (mainly) as on the other side is only framing (no rim-joist). Would it make sense to put some blocking inbetween the studs to give the ledger some more meat to connect to rather than somewhat blindly attaching the ledger into the studs? When i replace the OSB does the top edge need some type of cauking/sealant when it meets up with the other edge? Since the foam housewrap doesn't extend down fully should I put new house wrap + vinyl flashing up behind (closest to the OSB) the existing water proofing OR tape it on the top of the existing foam water proofing?

Attached is a ledger diagram of the new OSB/blocking/framing as well as a picture of this "foam" weatherpoofing that i don't have a name for.

 
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Old 04-08-20, 01:50 PM
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Unfortunately, if your deck does not attach to a rim, your only code compliant option is that it be free standin, unless you can get approval for an alternative. What your doing isn't standard, and no, I dont think adding blocking is a useful option. With no floor joists to attach to, I dont see how you could possibly have a code compliant lateral load device on this deck.

Having said that, I can't tell from your photo exactly where the top ot your ledger would need to be, or how far above the top edge of the concrete foundation the ledger would be, but if it is positioned low enough, 1/2" anchors into concrete are permitted as long as its solid concrete and not hollow block. You would need to consult the DCA6 tables to determine your ledger fastener spacing and pattern. See figures 14, 15, 19. Ledgers must be a minimum of 2x8. Your top bolt must be a minimum of 2" from the edge. So I would suggest maybe you drop the ledger down far enough so that the top row of lags or bolts is going to go directly into the center of your bottom plate... not into your studs. Then your bottom row of concrete expansion anchors would also be about 4" or so below the bottom plate where they could be fastened into the concrete foundation.

As far as flashing, if your foam fanfold is your WRB, your flashing should go under it. You could go over the foam if you think you can find some type of tape that will stick to it forever and ever. (Not likely) That's why it should go under. If you add osb, it needs to be protected by a WRB (usually housewrap), and that housewrap should be tucked under and existing fanfold as well.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 02:21 PM
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Appreciate the reply.. So with that being said if i go the route of attaching it to the concrete foundation what's the suggestion or way forward for getting it to the required height i need to be level with my door? In the real life picture you can see the bottom corner of the old ledger which is about 3" from the concrete. Is it even possible to raise it like that or?
 
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Old 04-08-20, 02:49 PM
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Maybe back up and take another picture from farther away.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 03:09 PM
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Ledger Area Reference

This is the section where it shows OSB, the vinyl siding where the foam stops and the concrete foundation beneath.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 03:12 PM
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I added a new reply with a little bit better picture, the section continues to the edge of my house.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 03:29 PM
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I'd like to see the existing ledger and door. You can see the whole picture, I cant. Photos of a 2ft x 3ft area really dont give me the big picture.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 03:54 PM
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Ignore the temporary house wrap i put on just to keep rain off of it until i get this figured out. The far right side is where i uploaded a pic without the housewrap to give some context. The left side, by the door, is where i replaced a rotten I-Joist with an LVL beam (excuse the terrible insulating foam job i need to clean up).
 
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Old 04-08-20, 03:57 PM
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Added a new picture, if you look at the picture with the house wrap taken off you can see a dark spot where the previous ledger went as well as some screw holes where it attached to the OSB.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 04:35 PM
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Ok, I think I'm with you now. So you're diagram in post 1 is the wall with the housewrap in post 8. Whereas you have an LVL rim under the door on the left side, you have no rim along the garage wall. That's what presents the problem. (No rim)

If you drop the ledger down, you would just have a step down out the patio door. Or you could build a box step or a landing in front of the door.

If you put the ledger at the same height it was before, technically, it's not right to attach a ledger to studs, but provided you hit the exact center of every other one, it will probably be fine. With the OSB off, mark the centers up above on your siding before you put the new OSB on. You will want to remove that bottom row of siding when you go to flash the ledger so that you can be sure you get it behind the WRB.

If you were to build it freestanding, (with the ledger at the same height as the existing) you would need to build 3 or 4 beams, they would be on posts and would be parallel to your LVL. Your joists, including the ledger on the garage side, would then all sit on top of the beams. The ledger under the door would basically be cantilevered (12" or so) off the beam on that side. You would then need 2 or 3 lateral load devices to fasten it to the house at 2 or 3 spots.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 05:25 PM
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Possible FreeStanding?

So i've tried to whip this up based on your suggestion for a free standing deck as it seems like that may be the best way to go. Is what i drew representative of what you thought? Obviously there would probably be a couple more pinl beams. The blue beams would be quite a bit more but i didnt want to clutter the picture. The blue beams are what would be cantilevered into the newly replaced LVL beam correct? Then when you say lateral load devices where that would that go?
 
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Old 04-08-20, 05:28 PM
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also that would mean the finished deck boards would actually go parallel to the door instead of the original deck which was parallel to the garage wall.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 07:48 PM
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Yes, that's the idea. Lateral load devices are shown in the DCA6 in figure 22, 23. You would have 2 under/around the door. Is it a problem if the decking runs opposite the way they were before?
 
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Old 04-08-20, 08:08 PM
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I think that will be okay for the boards to run the opposite way. Is there a way to remediate that? Also for DCA6 figure 22 and 23 the interior of that garage wall is quite literally my garage so it's only a stud and then a wall so where could i attach the inner part of the lateral load device?
 
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Old 04-08-20, 08:14 PM
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I didnt say they attach to the garage wall, I said they attach to the wall with the door in it... through your LVL.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 08:23 PM
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Ah my bad i guess i said it wrong in my post with the draw up. So instead of going through the blue beam it actually attaches to the blue beam and goes through the LVL. Since the interior of the house the i-joists are parallel with that LVL beam. So the only location it could attach would be the rim joist near where the chairs are that are perpendicular to the LVL beam.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 09:39 PM
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Yeah, through the LVL and under either side of the door. One of those figures shows what to do if the joists are parallel... add blocking between joists and go back 4 feet or so with your threaded rods.
 
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Old 04-08-20, 10:00 PM
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Appreciate your time! thanks a million for the LVL fix and this
 
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Old 04-08-20, 10:08 PM
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Glad to help. Keep up the good work!
 
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