"brick molding": capping protruding basement

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Old 06-21-20, 09:32 AM
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"brick molding": capping protruding basement

15 years ago I had a house set on a foam-sided concrete basement. The basement contractor sized the basement so the framing sat directly on the concrete, so the 2" of foam sticks out. He said to "install brick molding over the foam" like it was obvious, then disappeared. I live in a rural area with few contractor options, and clearly the one who finished this was not up to the task.

As you can see from the picture, the "pros" who put in the (flashing?) did a pretty hack job, especially on the corner, which has yet another 1/2" of pvc sticking out. It never shed water well, and after years and hail storms it actually collects water.

to complicate matters, the basement corner has 1/2" pvc over it, thus the cut-up pieces in the very front of the picture.

My plan is to remove the flashing (aka "brick molding") and bottom plank, add some sort of angle piece on top of the foam, install new flashing with some angle (maybe 20 degrees) that will shed the water, and face-nail on a new plank.

Any suggestions?


I thought of cutting off the foam, but that seemed extreme.
For the corner, I could "shave" the pvc up to meet flush with the basement corner. Or replace with metal so it is flush.

Thank you!





original install (ignore the splash of paint; I was color-matching paint)


propose fix (still not sure about corner)
 

Last edited by Pete Homeowner; 06-21-20 at 09:49 AM. Reason: more typos, add drawing
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Old 06-21-20, 09:42 AM
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What you have is called a z flashing. There should be a 1/4 - 3/8" gap (uncaulked) between the z flashing and the bottom edge of your siding, otherwise the siding sits in water. (Which is why the cement siding is deteriorating and is not holding paint.)

You can rent a metal brake, buy a roll of trim coil and do this yourself. Problem is, (unless that bottom row of siding doesnt sit at the same angle as the rest) there is likely a starter strip nailed on top of that flashing. You may need to cut off that row of siding above the flashing in order to get it out and reflash it.

This is brickmould.
 
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Old 06-21-20, 09:54 AM
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thanks XSleeper

I was planning to just replace the bottom row to make installation easier.

I edited the original to show my proposed plan. Any thoughts on trying to angle the Z-flashing to help shed water?

And the corner flashing...???
 
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Old 06-21-20, 10:10 AM
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I think any filler underneath will be pointless since there is nothing to fasten it to. On your corner, whatever metal you bend should be wide enough to continue out over the corner. Cut the top of your corner piece at an angle as needed.

But I'd recommend that you remove the siding and corner post below, then you could apply a horizontal trim (like brickmold, or anything else for that matter... a 2x4 with a 15 degree angle cut on the top edge of it for example) and apply that to the concrete. I would probably cut the foam out so it could fasten directly onto the concrete with tapcons. Then wrap that with trim coil. Then make a z flashing that will sit over the top.
 
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Old 06-21-20, 10:39 AM
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thanks for the suggestions

At the moment the flashing sits on top of foam, and is only attached under the siding above. This situation allowed it to warp and bend as you can see.

My "filler" would be as you suggest, a horizontal piece with an angle on it glued to the top of the foam.

Regardless of what I do, I still have the Z-flashing "floating," attached only to the sheeting behind the siding up above, with nothing holding it down to keep it from bending up or warping. I considered adhering it to the siding below the Flexal or some other high-quality adhesive. Is z-flashing usually attached on the bottom edge as well?

I originally replaced the corner piece and wrapped it as I had seen done, but as you can see it warped badly with nothing to hold it down.

Sorry for all the blah blah, but I want to understand your suggestions and how to implement them.
 
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Old 06-21-20, 10:46 AM
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Z flashing just sits there. You only fasten the top flange to the wall. But if you put the horizontal 2x4 under it like I said, with an angle on top, you could at least set the flashing in a bead of sealant which would make it more solid and secure. If you cut the foam out and a 2x4 isnt thick enough, do a 2x4 and a 1x4. or a 2x4 and a piece of 5/4 LP trim.

Similar to this, but due to your foam it will be built out more.
 
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Old 06-21-20, 12:11 PM
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Ok, NOW I get it. The link to the pic (plus a bunch of others) will do me well.
Thanks so much for your help!
 
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