I'm not sure where to start with what the issue is here. I took pictures & sent it to a handyman company & they said it would be $450 to fix this. I know nothing about siding, but it looks like it just needs to be nailed back in, right?
I don't even have a ladder to get up there, but would be willing to buy one if it can save me the funds.
Can someone help point me in the right direction of this?
Have you ever been up on your roof? Have you climbed the roof all the way to the peak? I think your willingness to do the job yourself might change if you got up there. I assume it's also probably why the siding installation wasn't done properly the first time.
Fixing the siding is a simple job... once you get up there. I assume the difficult location is a big reason for the handy man's cost. Even if you bought a ladder where would you stand it? The repair is directly above your steeply pitched roof so no level place to stand a ladder. Not a beginner place to be working if you have no experience high on a ladder.
And to expand a bit more about the repair needed once you get up there.
The white material along the edge of the sagging siding is the "J" channel, that is nailed to the wall and then the siding is inserted between them and also nailed to the wall.
Why the entire section, with all the nails, has come loose as one large piece is interesting and worrisome. Has to be an issue with the wall that all those nails came loose at the same time.
Might be a bigger job than just re-nailing the siding back up!
I'm assuming that you don't have any issues that would preclude you working on a roof. I don't see the height of the repair as a problem. The roof pitch below the repair is not severe. I would just ladder up and then stand on the roof. A ladder leveler would take care of the pitch on the main roof.
My concern is why did it come apart this way? Was it incorrectly nailed to start with or is there a problem with the wall itself. If it were me I would at least climb up there to investigate the cause of the failure. Once you do that you can decide what has to be done and if you can DIY it or how much a reasonable repair might cost. Just be aware that a lot of these "handyman service" companies are typically way more expensive than hiring a local handyman.
On roofs like that, I will just buy a few 2x4s and make a ladder than will hook/hang over the peak. It lays on the roof beneath your feet and gives you something for your feet to brace against, and you can set tools down without them rolling away.
They also make ladder roof hooks that you can use with an Osha approved ladder.
My guess is that they probably siliconed the top several rows together and if so, getting the old pieces apart might be tough.
But yes, in a nutshell you just need to renail (or screw) the pieces back on. If you use screws, use truss head screws, and don't screw them down tight. Same with nails... you can fasten j-channel tight to the house but the siding itself needs to be loose so that it can slide left and right (expansion and contraction). So your nails/screws should be 1/8" loose, not driven tight. And when you fasten the siding, put the fasteners in the center of each slot.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I have a buddy who is going to help me get up there.
Assuming there are no problems with the wall ... Once I'm up there, do I screw / nail the white part to the wall or the tan part? Or do I attach them both?
And if I do attach them exactly where would be the best place to do it (Ie. at the top of the A)?
You should disassemble the top 2 pieces of double 5 siding, removing them. (Tan) The very top piece is likely just a very small triangle that is caulked on with silicone. As I said earlier, they may have used silicone to glue several of those top pieces together where they interlock (thus explaining why it blew off... no nails)
You will fasten the j-channel (white) through the slots that are provided for nailing.
Then you will fasten the pieces of siding (tan) one at a time, putting fasteners in the center of the slots that are on top. Then use silicone to glue the very top triangle in place as you push it up tight.
[color=#141414]I built myself a shop and didn't bring the siding down over the subfloor. Siding is T-111. It terminates at the bottom plate. I've attached some pictures so you can see the issue, and what I've done to correct it. I took a 1x3 and ripped the back side to create a drip board. I then attached it using sidewinder on the backs and to seal the top joint.[/color]
[color=#141414]The problem is what I did to correct will only last so long, and in a few places I still get a bit of damp plates/floor. I think this is at the t-111 panel joints. I need to add some caulking up the wall vertically a bit.[/color]
[color=#141414]I have water intrusion at a roll up door and the floor has rotted out. This summer I will be addressing that and thought I'd possible address the exposed sub floor.[/color]
[color=#141414]I'm considering z-flashing it but I can't help but think there is another way. I would like to avoid the z-flash if possible. On one side of my shop I don't have much working room, and I'm not even sure if I could get the z-flash in.[/color]
[color=#141414]My question to you guys is - why not use bondo to seal that up nice and tight? I could float it out to cover the lower edge of the t-111 as well. Seems so simple and I can't see why it wouldn't work.[/color]
[color=#141414]Thoughts on the bondo angle?[/color]
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My in law apartment went on hold last year because of Covid-19, never had the chance to attach the garage so I just wrapped the house to protect the wood sheathing. I've been finishing the inside of the addition and plan on attaching the garage within the next couple of months seeing lumber material is more readily to get now. My problem is the house wrap I put on is losing it's water proofing, I see the sheathing is beginning to get wet behind the wrap when we have heavy rain. Can I put on new house wrap over the old wrap already on, or do I have to remove the old wrap first? I'm just trying to keep the sheathing dry to prevent it from swelling or getting mold behind it until I can get the garage up and put my siding on, thanks.....
01-13-21, 01:10 PM
