Butyl tape sticks to vinyl better and longer. If you are happy with it, leave it. For the light, I would be getting an Arlington siding block from Amazon that has a built in j channel/mounting block/electrical box all in one... and install it before / as you side.
For the light, I would be getting an Arlington siding block from Amazon that has a built in j channel/mounting block/electrical box all in one... and install it before / as you side.
The only ones I could find were rectangle electrical boxs. Do they make round ones as my light and most outdoors lights have a round back. I picked these up but not sure if I can/should use them.
When working with vinyl soffit, (I detest the stuff but have to use it sometimes) I kind of like using truss head screws instead of nails. Lath screws some call them.
Also, I ended up getting the arlington 8081f as they didnt have enough stock of the arlington 8091f. Seems to work fine, I think its just a lower profile box.
They will work, although it would be better if they didn't have the self drilling tips.
I took the day off today to work on the house. I have to stop at home depot again so I will see if they have the sharp point tips in stock this time around. If not I'll stick with what I have.
I definitly didnt break any records but I got some of the siding on finally.
I wasnt sure if I should be overlapping siding over or under a window but as you can see I did. Please let me know if I shouldn't be doing that of if you see anything else out of place.
Also, what is this trim for?? Is it to support floppy rips under windows soffits etc? If so, How does one attach it as the nail fin is on the back ...
You have 2 finish trims in your hand. Pull them apart. They are used above and below windows and along the top ripped edge, inside of a j channel in lieu of a utility j. The snap lock punch puts tabs in the top edge of the siding so it can't pull back out. You would use finish trim that are the same color as the siding.
You have 2 finish trims in your hand. Pull them apart.
They are used above and below windows and along the top ripped edge, inside of a j channel in lieu of a utility j. The snap lock punch puts tabs in the top edge of the siding so it can't pull back out. You would use finish trim that are the same color as the siding.
Ugh, I neglected to use it above the window. I'lll have to yank that off tommorow as well as the WHITE utility trim under the soffit J. I think they only gave me white so I will have to avoid using it on anything but the windows until I get more.
Well you would use white j channel for your soffit since your soffit is white.
I mis spoke, I am using the white soffit J with the matching siding J under which I used white utillity trim in. Honestly, on the bottom tier you probably wont even be able to see the white utility trim.
Ok, so I couldnt decide what way to lap the siding today. I originally was going to go off the front door and lap away from that meaning I would have laps going in two different directions.
I then was looking at my house from the street and to the left of my house is a fence ( driveway side ) so you can not see my house ( the siding) untill you are in my driveway. Coming the other direction you can completely see my house and the laps if I were to lap it that way.
Is it dumb to lap it all in one direction based on how it looks from the street? I uploaded a picture so that you can understand what it is I am saying.
As for the front door and stoop....J should go all the way down the sides of the door flush with the stoop height and again across the stoop into the vinyl corner, then utility trim in the J that goes across the stoop to recieve my ripped first corse correct?
Dilemma of the day.. Somehow I measured the vinyl corners wrong and shorted myself 2 inches on each side. I was trying to keep it flush with where the stoop should be but obviously I have a big gap there and my math was off.. I am now left with my vinyl corners 2" above where the top of the stoop would be.
I was thinking I could either raise the stoop 2 in when I resurface it but that will leave my now 3 and 1/2-in step up to the door a one and a half inch step up to the door which could create a trip hazard. The other option I was thinking is laying a white PVC board straight across under the door and under the corners. Orr obviously I could take the siding off and replace the corners...
It might look best if you put a pvc 1x4 under the door all the way across, which might mean the corners need to be even shorter. But it's really up to you.
It might look best if you put a pvc 1x4 under the door all the way across, which might mean the corners need to be even shorter. But it's really up to you.
I think I'm just going to pull the siding and redo the corner posts. Its prob an hours worth of work either way.
-Should I replace the gable vents with vinyl or just buy new aluminum vents?? The current ones are 20.5 x 14.5. I found These, they are 20 x 14 so they should fit. If you have a better recomendation please let me know.
- Do they make outside vinyl corner caps? If not, what is the bast way to finish these off so that you dont see the space?
Yes, definitely use those vinyl louvers. No, there is no such thing as a corner post cap. Ignore it and it will go away. Any "solution" would tend to draw MORE attention to it, imo.
If you had some white aluminum trim coil you could make a z flashing to sit on top of the corner post. That would be about as classy as it gets. Just don't catch the sharp corners with your hand when you clean the siding.
If you had some white aluminum trim coil you could make a z flashing to sit on top of the corner post. That would be about as classy as it gets. Just don't catch the sharp corners with your hand when you clean the siding.
I will give it a shot when I do all the trim with the coil. I dont have a brake so I will have to rent one for a day.
Now that I'm on the side of the house. With only two windows, there are going to be a lot of straight runs.
What is the best method for avoiding obvious patterns?
Start with one full, then cut 48" off the next and repeat untill I start with a 48" piece? The sides are 24' long.
New dilemma, got 3/4 of the way up on the side and realized the 2nd row didnt snap in on all the way on the end! I got it to clip in but its obveously not pulled tight so by the time I get up to the corner where it bumps out, I am off by 3/4".
I am trying to figure out the best way to fix this without basically tearing off that whole side...
I was thinking if I unsnap and denail the siding from the top down about 6 feet across it would give me enough room to manipulate the siding and renail. Any suggestions?
The only fix for that is to take it off. Siding is supposed to line up as you look at the corner. Fixing the last 6ft isn't going to help. The good news is it will only waste about an hour if you get after it and label all your pieces as you take them down.
The only fix for that is to take it off. Siding is supposed to line up as you look at the corner. Fixing the last 6ft isn't going to help. The good news is it will only waste about an hour if you get after it and label all your pieces as you take them down.
Ok, looks like I'll be taking it off! jeez by the time I am done with this house I'll have the equivalent of 2 houses under my belt.
Okay, so when they added the deck on to the house they just lag bolted the ledger board right through the cedar siding and neglected to put any flashing. How should I address this?
Oh ok, so take the row of decking that is up against the house off, cut the cedar shakes flush with the ledger then use an L flashing over the top of the ledger ( and under the decking) onto the wall? Should I put a Butyl flashing over or behind the flashing? or both??
So the deck ledger flashing I bought is 1x as the ledger is also 1x but the ledger sits about 1" from the house due to the cedar siding behind it as well as some air gaps.
Do they make 2x deck ledger flashing or can I just use the left over lead flashing I have that I used on the front door steps?
2x ledgers are typical, so ledger flashing is a 1 5/8" (1 1/2") z flashing. Yes it is commonly available. Use lead flashing if you want. Use a 4x4 L-flashing if you want.
A j channel over a deck will catch leaves and trash. You "can" use it, but you usually want to avoid it if possible. If you do use a j channel on bottom, I will usually drill big 3/8" holes in it so that it doesn't hold water. Depending on where you need to rip the siding it's possible that you can start the siding over the deck in both a j-channel and then also put a finish trim inside the j-channel. This fill the j channel up and doesn't leave a lot of space for leaf trash to collect. You can also start the siding in an undersill (finish trim) but they often get wavy when used alone and look shabby.
If there is siding under the ledger, I would probably put another z flashing under the ledger, (just as that photo suggests) then finish the top of the siding there as you normally would, as it would all be flashed by the z flashing that is behind the ledger.
If your ledger is really 1x, you have problems. That's not acceptable anywhere. Sure hope they used 3" nails to attach your joist hangers.
Depending on where you need to rip the siding it's possible that you can start the siding over the deck in both a j-channel and then also put a finish trim inside the j-channel. This fill the j channel up and doesn't leave a lot of space for leaf trash to collect. You can also start the siding in an undersill (finish trim) but they often get wavy when used alone and look shabby.
So the best method would be J-channel with undersill trim inside to help fill the J-channel?
If your ledger is really 1x, you have problems. That's not acceptable anywhere. Sure hope they used 3" nails to attach your joist hangers.
I'm an idiot, I meant 2x when referring to the ledger and then because of the gap created by the cedar siding, its about another inch wide.
That's likely what I would do. Drill holes in the j channel so water can drain, then fill it with an undersill trim. (But it depends on where the rip is located)
if its more like 2 1/2" after the cedar shingle siding is removed then I'd just put down a 4x4 L flashing. You can bed that flashing on the ledger with a bead of sealant just to ensure you don't get any blow back.
Just got the last door in and I'm not sure how to deal with the height of the brick molding. It doesn't leave me enough room between the molding and the soffit to install my soffit J. The top of the brick molding is basically the same height as the soffit J. I could maybe modify the J just over the door by cutting off the nail flange but im not sure if it will cause the soffit to look un even where it is slightly higher...
Also, not sure how to attach this bathroom vent and how to prevent it from falling back into the wall. I have no access to the venting tube if it falls back in the wall. Any suggestions?
Looks like the j isn't needed over the door as the soffit will just sit on top of the brickmold. On the bath vent I'd use foil tape to seal the duct to the vinyl mount, then shove it into the wall and nail it on. (On top of the WRB, then tape it to the WRB.)
Are there any downsides to doing this beyond appearance?
Can't find the soffit I need anywhere in town, and would like to know if it's a good alternative.
Metal Lath*Read More
07-25-21, 08:51 PM
