vinyl siding newb questions!

Can you help me understand why I would need the Z flashing under the deck? I've flashed the top and sides of the ledger so I don't see how any water could get in. I only ask because I am having a hard time trying to find Z flashing wide enough.

Seeing I used lead flashing and bent it around the top of the ledger and taped the top, Is cutting the Tyvek back and taping flush with the under side of the ledger enough? ( like in the pictures)

 

Same reason that you need a z flashing on top of the ledger. You put one on top of the ledger so that water doesn't get behind the ledger... and you put one under the ledger so that water doesn't get behind the siding that is under the ledger. As water runs down the house, it will tend to follow the bottom of the ledger back and it will leak in behind the siding.

If you don't understand just get your hose out and watch where that water goes. Because its going to run right behind the top brickmold on that door/window below the ledger.

Your deck is not like an awning that prevents water from running through it.

If its too tight to get a z flashing behind the bottom of the ledger then the only thing you can do is caulk the top of the siding to the bottom of the ledger.

 

Ok, got it. I'm trying to find something at the home depot. Do you think this door/ window cap will work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax...0120/100035439

Also, the idea would be to get the flashing behind the cedar siding that is behind the ledger not directly behind the ledger, correct?

 

Yes, behind the cedar siding and against the original sheathing. That drip cap z flashing would work fine. It's 1.25" and just needs to lap over your j channel / undersill trim to act as a drip edge.

 

Great, I'll pick some up before the weekend. Thank you

 

Not sure what to do here. I want to move the deck steps away from the side of the house so that I can vinyl side the complete side.

They nailed the stringer directly to the wall for support. As you can see, other than that, there is really nothing supporting the 2 x 10 that it is attached to.

Any suggestions?

 

Tear the steps off and start over once your done siding. You can hang some framing down from inside to support that 2x10. Then something should be kicked up alongside the joists at a 45 degree angle.

 

I ended up lining up the siding j with the tops of all the windows as well as the door brick molding in order to hang the soffit. Is there anything I need to or should do above the siding J to help prevent water penetration?




I'm getting there, I only have the left side of the house to do. (progress photos)

 

If you ever plan on powerwashing the siding or soffit, you would want the j channel there to deflect water, and to "kind of" flash the top edge of your housewrap there, or else water will run behind the housewrap. I've seen it happen with the occasional ice dam in the winter too. Water goes weird places that defy gravity.

Shim the j channel down with a strip of plywood that is the right thickness so that it will sit tight to the top of your siding and brickmold.

 

I was also thinking I may be able to slide some of that drip cap z flashing I used for the deck ledger. There is a little gap between the house and the wood soffit. I was actually able to slide the top nailing flange of all the windows between it.

Do you think that would be overkill?

 

Yes, probably so.

 

So I am nearing the end of the job and I have run out of siding. I probably need 20ish pieces to finish.

My question is, if the siding is from a different lot number, will the color be slightly different from the ones already on the house??

I know with roofing if we ran out and had to get from another lot, you could see the difference in color so I dont know if it is the same with siding..

 

It's not a common problem with siding. Old siding that has aged vs new siding yes. So don't wait 20 years to finish.