Exterior Wall Order of Material Application

Hello,

We are building a 50' x 40' aircraft hangar. I purchased the steel from WorldWide Steel which includes primary and secondary steel framing. Primary framing is steel open web truss. Secondary is the wall girts and roof purlins.

This building will NOT be covered in steel siding. In order to comply with our airpark home owners association, we will be siding the hangar with lap siding to match the style and color of the home. We will probably use James Hardie siding.

Because of our North Carolina climate, I would like to use a moderate insulation. I don't like spray foam because of the irregularities of the application, and we quite frankly do not need anything that extreme. I don't want to use batten or rolled insulation, again, because of the look and other reasons... I prefer to use a foam board insulation.

So my question is...

What is the order of materials application? One thought would be the following:

1). OSB?
2). Reflective building wrap?
3). Foam board?
4). Furring strips (air barrier)?
5). Hardie exterior lap siding?

WWS provided a suggested drawing for siding, but it does not cover our specific application. And I cannot make total sense out of the drawing.

If I were to approach my builder, how would I explain to him the method I would like to see the siding materials applied to the wall girts, In order?

Is there an industry standard. I've searched and searched and cannot find anything on this.

Thanks so much!

 

Since this is not diy and you are having a builder do this for you, I would just talk to him about it. I'm sure it's not his first rodeo and I'm sure he will have an opinion of his own.

It's certainly not standard, no. All I will say is that since you are planning on putting lap siding on, you need to have a surface to nail to that is the proper depth for siding nails. So if you are putting foam on the exterior that's fine but you would need to add wood framing (such as 2x2s) to nail the siding to. (Using 1 1/2" 15 degree siding nails) And you need a WRB directly behind the siding. IMO it will work best if the siding is not directly on the foam.

Personally I'd be using LP Smartside before I used Hardie. I've put up a lot of both.

 

Are you heating or air conditioning the hangar? Vapor barrier location usually is based on what is the hot and cold side to determine where the moisture is moving to. An unheated hangar in NC will face moisture from either in or out depending on the season. I would consider foam as it solves the vapor barrier problem and if you don't like the look you can finish the interior walls at least partial height.

I agree that insulation is a very nice feature though. My hangar rains inside every spring when the warm humid air hits the metal roof cooled by the night. Insulation won't completely solve the moisture problem but it can really help with short term temperature swings.

 

I should have mentioned... my builder is my consultant. He is building our home on the same property. The home is his responsibility, and the hangar is mine. (Worldwide Steel building kits are DIY) I am bouncing ideas off of him. He is not familiar with this structure type and I am seeking out installation ideas so he and I can collaborate.

XSleeper I agree that maybe the foam board should go on the inside in order to give the Hardie a better attachment surface. (We are using Hardie because that is what we are using on the house)

Pilot Dane I am not going with HVAC for now. Maybe in the future. I guess I need to look into spray foam... I just cannot get over the god awful look after it is applied. Will need to figure out something to "dress it up"

Thanks!

 

I didn't really say the foam should go on the inside. It can be on the outside but the 2x2s would be on top of that.