Hi all,
my wife and i recently moved into a fixer upper ( stress the fixer part ) these forums and members have been great to me so far and i am back with another question..
today i went around the perimeter to install crawl space vent covers, when i happened to look under the cedar siding on one side of the house to find i could see right up inside and see insulation in some places. it is all bone dry even though we had some torrential rain last week. and the cedar siding hangs down id guess at around 10 inches below this, i obviously need to block this off to stop rodents etc, so i am wondering how best to go about it? do i use pressure treated wood then foam any gaps? or do i need to leave some sort of air flow?
again i appreciate any advice and input.
thanks for your time.
I'd probably get some SPF 1x4 and rip it on a table saw to the right width to fit up there flat. It doesn't need to be air tight, just like you say to keep rodents out. Attach it to the bottom of that 2x4 on the right with a few 2" torx screws on a long driver bit. It will be easiest if you start all the screws first (means screwing the screws into your board you are putting up by about 1/2") before you put the piece in there. Then once it's in there, screw them in all the way.
Doesn't have to be treated and no reason to use foam.
You don't say how long the problem area is so I may be off here. Also, it may be that the width varies and attaching anything under the space may be difficult to maneuver. In addition, the space may be worthwhile to allow for moisture to escape.
If any of that's the case, I suggest getting a roll of 1/4" hardware cloth, cutting it into strips with snips, and stapling or tacking it across the space. An alternative is a copper mesh roll and some adhesive. Put some adhesive either up into the space on the wood or on the mesh and place the mesh along and up into the space using either your fingers or some craft popsicle sticks. The mesh will stay in place but the adhesive prevents rodents from displacing it. You'll find either approach an easy and inexpensive fix.
Thank you for options, i found they left similar on the back end of the house also, the gap ranges from roughly 4 inches on the one side to 6 on the other, i measured it up and i need
5 x 1x6x8ft
4 x 1x4x8ft
its not terrible to get to in any part as far as i can see so i will probably go with wood for this, but i now have the mesh in my cart as its cheap and incase i find any other areas or holes.
Hi,
I want to replace the stucco at the bottom of my exterior wall as it was cracking and flaking off of the substrate at very bottom 12" of the wall which appears to be cement blocks covered with what could a bituminous waterproofing membrane. I want to replace the wall with 12"x24" porcelain tile going up 24" to where there is thin aluminum flashing. I have circled in the 2nd picture the location where I would be replacing the stucco with the tile. I want to replace the flashing with tile as well. The question is how to I handle that transition from the stucco above to section where I'll be replacing with tile. Do I still need to have some flashing at the ledge where I am replacing with tile? If so, how would it be done?
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05-25-23, 02:17 PM
