Kubota L4400 Hard Shifting - High/Low/Reverse

This Kubota L4400 is about a 2006 model, manual transmission - 4 forward/reverse with high/low gearbox.

Issue is getting worse as time goes along. Don't use this tractor much. Its only got about 300 hrs on it.

Doesn't seem to matter if its in high, low or reverse. Occasionally it will grind the gears trying to put in any range (Hi/Lo/Rev) from a dead stop, but not often. Most of my issue is, it doesn't want to go into range (Hi/Lo/Rev) or it doesn't want to come out of range when stopped.
For example, in the older cars/trucks if it was the manual transmission, you could ease out on the clutch a bit & it would work the clutch just enough that it would easily go into or out of that gear. I just have to wrestle with it most of the time. It just doesn't go into or out of range smoothly like it should when stopped.
No transmission noises, no clutch, pressure plate or throw out bearing noises. No issues other than its just stubborn when stopped. Doesn't jump or jerk. I just dont remember having this problem when it was new & I dont remember it being a consistent issue like it (seems) to have become. This tractor has always been serviced by the dealership. There has never been a DIY service .... even an oil change..

I'm assuming something just needs to be adjusted. I'm kinda new to this (Hi/Lo/Rev) range... 2nd gearbox setup.

 

I would talk to local dealer about the issue. Do you have Kubota's owners manual or service manual? Might have adjustment procedures for the issue.

 

Have you checked the trans oil level? How far up do you come with the clutch peddle before it starts to move?

 

Ok, I got the owners manual & I checked the clutch adjustment according to the manual. It refers to free-play (at the top) so that's what I checked. Manual says: 3/4" - 1 1/4" free play. My free play is at 1" so, its acceptable.
it did not refer to how much travel is required for the tractor to move. I'll check that for you later Mark if you still want to know.

Something I did not know (& never seen this AFAIK) is the transmission and hydraulics work off the same fluid.... Hydraulic fluid. The manual suggested checking the hydraulic fluid (transmission & Hyds) via a sight glass, by lowering the 3 point hitch all the way down. The fluid level is acceptable anywhere within the sight glass but not above the sight glass, so it needs at least a bubble at the top.
I am not showing any oil in the sight glass. So, it appears I need to add some. I'll get some & report back.

 

Bought 1 gallon of hydraulic transmission fluid & it took all of it before I seen it right in the bottom of the sight glass. I used it around a little this afternoon, getting things ready to do some bush hogging this weekend. I noticed the range was shifting fine. I had my mind of getting everything together so I wasn't really paying attention. Having said that, I am pretty sure it shifted without any issues since I didn't notice any issues.
I'm assuming its going to take another quart or half gallon. I'm going to see if they are open in the morning to pick up another gallon.

Thanks again, Mark.

 

I have the 2012 L4400 HST model with Low medium and high range. It's not the best design, when you change the range, the tractor must be stationary at minimum RPM or you will crunch the gears. Best to push left clutch pedal and right brake pedal in simultaneously when changing.

30% of the time it won't enter the new range. So I switch it back to the range I was just in and drive forward or back 1 foot. It usually switches ok after that, this seems to allow the cogs on gears to align properly, but you can't force it though.

Successful gear changing involves moving it back for forward 30cm. It's not the best design. Sometimes on rare occasions, it slips out of gear into neutral, which is very dangerous if you're on a slope, so always use the foot brake lock if you have to step out of the tractor.

Never place the tractor on a slope if you have to load up the front loader standing in front of it. The foot brake lock sometimes slips lose, especially if it's not greased properly.

There is no need for the tractor to enter neutral range. This is what makes it dangerous. Just with this 14 tonne roller compactor, it always stays in a gear and can't enter neutral. If the L4400 was always forced to stay in gear, it would have fewer issues rolling downhill and crushing people.

 

My tractor is an old Ford NAA. You must be at a dead stop [or at least the rear wheel] in order to change gears. IMO it's not a big deal. Shift gears on a farm tractor isn't like shifting a car/truck.

When I bought my tractor it was prone to pop out of gear going down my steep driveway. The easy fix is to just hold it in gear with your knee when going down a steep grade. 12-15 yrs ago I had the transmission rebuilt but I still hold it in gear going down steep grades. I've never had mine pop out of gear parked on a hill with the engine off.

 

might try adjusting the clutch to minimum specs see if it helps. if the tractor is still grinding when stopped I would think its cause the shaft in the transmission is still turning some theres not much I can think of other than the clutch or maybe the pilot bearing causing this, but I dont think these would have much wear with only 300 hours.

 

Just to catch everybody up, this was an old thread resurrected by a new member.

The issue was resolved in Sept of last year.....