"Bagging" floor

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Old 08-18-06, 02:03 PM
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"Bagging" floor

I just tried a technique called "bagging" on a sample piece of plywood. The directions I used called for gluing on the torn pieces of brown paper with water based urethane. They wrinkled like crazy! I have seen pictures of finished walls and floors using this technique and they look great.

Anyone know of this technique and how to do it properly?

Thanks.
 
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Old 08-18-06, 06:05 PM
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"Bagging" it

http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Faux_Paint_Finishes_Bagging-Decorative_Painting-A1651.html

Here's a link about how to bag. I don't understand what you are talking about with brown bags and such. This is the only type of bagging that I know, but I'm fairly new at this. It sounds like what you are talking about is a totally different type of bagging.

Nursekuba
 
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Old 08-18-06, 06:54 PM
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Brown Bagging

Thanks for your input. I checked out the link you suggested, and it is a faux painting technique. What I'm talking about is done with torn brown paper bags that are applied to walls or floors to make them look like leather or stone.

Anybody else know about this?
 
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Old 08-18-06, 07:02 PM
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Bagging it again

Here's a link to a tissue paper technique for that. I don't think brown paper bags would have the same effect.

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/lr_walls/article/0,2041,DIY_14083_3190133,00.html

Nursekuba
 
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Old 08-18-06, 07:07 PM
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Like this?

http://lifestyle.msn.com/HomeandGarden/Home/ArticleIV3.aspx?cp-documentid=656439
 
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Old 08-18-06, 07:08 PM
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another technique

Here's another technique using brown paper:

http://www.trompe-l-oeil-art.com/faux-leather.html

Nursekuba
 
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Old 08-18-06, 07:17 PM
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Talking Brown Bagging

Yea! I found a version at DIYNetwork.com. I'll also check out the other links you both have suggested.

Thanks.
 
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Old 08-21-06, 07:10 AM
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What do you mean the paper wrinkled. I've seen the effect, but haven't tried it, but I'm trying to figure out what you mean the paper wrinkled. Did you pre-tear all the paper, apply your base paint/poly, rub your bags on, then apply a second coat of base paint/poly on top? Are you getting the paper bags to wet before top coating?
 
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Old 08-21-06, 05:02 PM
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Yep. Did all of that. When I smoothed the pretorn pieces over the poly, they wrinkled and I could not get rid of the wrinkles. The paper was dry when I placed it on the poly.

I'm going to dig up another sample board and try a different version of the technique.
 
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Old 08-23-06, 05:10 AM
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Clean your floor well using a TSP mixture. Make up a bucket with about 2 parts Titebond mixed with 4 parts water, Do a sample first, you may have to adjust the mixture. Tear your bags into the shapes desired and roll Titebond mixture over the backs of paper sections, (you can do several at a time, just lay in garbage bag so they don't dry up). Lay your pieces down.

When the floor is completely dry, you then use a poly over the floor.
 
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Old 08-26-06, 03:32 PM
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Haven't visited in a few days. Thanks for the tip. Also read about using Drawtite. Do you know if this is a similar glue?
 
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Old 02-18-07, 02:49 PM
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"Bagging" or"Torn Paper" floor-Update

Last August I posted a query about how to do a torn paper technique on my dining room floor instead of a traditional floor covering. I found one that worked for me and I now have a dining room floor that looks like flagstone. It was done using brown paper, a little faux painting, wall paper paste and water based urethane. Next, I'll be doing my kitchen floor.
 
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Old 12-26-07, 11:25 AM
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brown bagging The TECHNIQUE

Recommended materials
Tufco Technologies Brown Builder Paper (Home Depot)
GH-34 Golden Harvest HD Strippable Adhesive (Lowe’s)
Draw-Tite, No Run DRC (Scotch Paints,1-800-404-2878)
All of these materials are essential and brands are mandatory. There is some kind of reaction between the three that gives me a signature look. At first, I substituted one or two and didn’t get the “mottled”effect as I did originally. I have done some substitution research to see if I can get the same look with other brands, and so far, no luck. So, why try to fix it if it isn’t broken?

The TECHNIQUE

Pre-tear the roll of brown paper, tearing the factory edges off first and casting them aside for use later. When tearing the regular pieces, I try to keep them to dinner-plate size, but very random shapes. You will find your method. It took me awhile to get it down to where it was easy. I have now torn over 100,000 square feet.
First we roll a coat of Draw-Tite No Run over any surface we are covering. We have done paneling, all types of sheetrock texture from very heavy to light, new sheetrock, concrete block, cedar beams and small furniture pieces and fixtures. The surface just needs to be dry to the touch to begin pasting and applying paper.
I really like pasting because I set my table up at chair height and actually can sit down while working. (Give a lazy person a job and they will find the easiest way to do it.) We paste by hand...no brush or roller or machine, because the saturation of the paper is a factor in our finished look. We have experimented with all techniques, but hand pasting is the easiest and fastest for us. It isn’t as laborious or slow as you think. I usually paste about 20-30 pieces, booking (folding - dry side outwards) each one, stacking, and then flipping the stack for the hanger. We paste the inside of the “curve” consistently. This makes a difference in the mottling.
The installer aka brownbagger outlines all straight edges first...ceiling, baseboard, cabinetry, doorways, windows, etc. Then, the filling in begins much like papier-mache, overlapping slightly so as not to leave any exposed wall. The final step is to seal with another coat of Draw-tite No Run. We cut in the edges, but very easily with no taping off. We then coat the rest, using a roller of choice. If darkness is no concern, we coat while the paper is still wet, leaving a very strong contrast. For a lighter version, we let dry at least 12 hours and then coat. It is fun and a look people love. Good luck and let me hear from you!
 
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Old 01-19-08, 07:11 PM
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Smile Brown Bagging the walls...

Certainly not to imply anyone has deliberately
tried to pass off a post as their own, I can't
help but to mention the previous post is actually
written by Bonnye Manning. Perhaps Judy inadvertently
forgot to credit Bonnye's words.

Bonnye's site:

http://www.brownbagwalls.com/

or

http://www.bozzle.com/bbwBonnyeManning.html

I'd recognize her posts anywhere, as Bonnye
was pretty much my mentor in creating my own
brown bag wall method.

I've since created a website with instructions, though
I tend to jabber on at times, so it is lengthy. Bonnye
deserves credit for everything she's taught me.

Though I've only done walls and such at this point,
I am about to do the floors in our home with this
same technique and will work on the webpage for
such.

My Brown Bagging site:
http://www.wuvie.net/brownbagwalls.htm

Again, thanks to, and hats off to, Bonnye!
(not a typo, it is BonnYE)
 
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