Installing a self-closing gate

We are in the final stages of our pool build. Gate to the back yard was removed for bobcat access. I need to install a self-closing/latching gate to all exterior entrances to the pool. I need a couple tips from the pros... I noticed the gate was hung with the nail in type anchors, I'm wondering if this will be strong enough being that the self closing mechanism will probably put more stress on the anchors. Should I use redheads or tapcons or will the nail type anchors be strong enough? The existing fence is a 45 inch wood fence and I'll need to purchase another one for the other side. Can I buy self closing/latching hardware for existing fences at HD? Just seeing what the pros use. I'm fairly handy and I'm wondering if this is a two man job? Thanks

 

Spring loaded hinges would do the job - or spring closures available @ HD.

 

Forgot to mention, the gate will be mounted to a cynderblock fence.

 

Flanders,

I'm not sure where you are talking about these "nail-in type anchors"being used. Are they post bases or column bases for a fence post? Or are they something like BC40 that was attached to the cinderblock and then a 4X4 was nailed in to that? That needs a bit more explaination.

Also, a fence 45" tall isn't going to fly around a pool. MINIMUM height is 60".

 

Nail in type anchors-(product discription) Concrete Nylon Nail-it Anchors are designed for anchoring into concrete, brick or block. Insert the anchor into a pre-drilled hole in concrete, set the anchor by driving the nail into the anchor. The nail creates the expansion of the nylon nail-it anchor into concrete, brick or block.

The posts are cynder block pilasters. There is 48 inches between the pilasters. The existing gate is 45 inches WIDE.

Origionally they nailed a 2X4 to the latch side.

I need to buy another gate for the other side of the house (opening is also 48 inches) Just called HD and they told me they have gates that are 42 and 48 inches wide. If I get the 42 inch gate that leaves 6 inches of play, or 4 and a half after I nail a 2X4 to one side. Would the 48" gate work? I'd have to mount it to the outside of the pilasters.

Thanks for your help,

Flanders

 

Not sure how big your nylon anchors are, but doubt that they will stand up to the constant pressures exerted on a fence gate. I would insert lead anchors and lag screw for support.

Mount a 4x4 instead of 2x4 to each side of the opening. That will close the gap by 7". Split the remaining 1" evenly on each side of the gate to give clearance for opening and closing.

 

How would I attach a 4X4 to the pilaster? With the 2X4 they used a nail wedge anchor.

 

I guess I am not following your layout correctly, perhaps a picture would help.

I picturing of a cinderblock column on either side of an opening. Is this correct? How ornate is the pilaster?

If I am correct, Predrill the 4x4, countersink with a spade bit and insert lag screw with washer and attach to predrilled holes in block with lead anchors inserted. Make sure the lag and washer are galvanized and approved for PT lumber contact.

 

Flanders,

By "nail wedge anchors", are you refering to those little 1/4" X 2" or 2-1/2" long lead anchors with a mushroom head with a steel pin the middle that you drive in to secure the anchor? If so, they WILL NOT hold a gate. And if they are the same style of an anchor, only with a nylon sleeve rather that lead, those are even weaker.

I'm beginning to understand that you are anchoring your wood posts to the cinder blocks. Lead shields and lag bolts will work better. If need be, countersink the lags 1/2" with a washer behind the head.