Staining or waterproofing??

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  #1  
Old 04-09-08, 02:42 PM
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Staining or waterproofing??

Hello,
I'm kind of confused as to how to go about getting some waterproofing on my fence. We bought a home last summer that has a six foot wooden privacy fence around a good size lot. It is partly cedar with vertical pieces of an unknown type of wood - I don't believe it was treated. I'm estimating the age of the fence as around 8 years.

We are preparing to refinish it - not so much to "beautify" it as to waterproof it. It is around 3,000 square feet of coverage (x 2 sides) so I'm thinking it will take at least 20-25 gallons. HD has Behr at $20 off a 5-gal can which is still pushing $90 x 5. I was hoping to get by a little less expensive. My question is; does a more expensive brand really make a big difference? Also, they have stains available or just clear waterproofing. I'm at a loss as to how to go about purchasing what I need. Forgive my ignorance, but this is my first house, so I'm pretty new at a lot of this stuff.

Thanks for any help you can offer.
Larry
 
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Old 04-09-08, 03:03 PM
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You get what you pay for - the cheaper the product, the more often you'll have to reapply. Cabbot's and Sikken's get the most praise here. A solid body stain is going to give you the longest lasting protection.
 
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Old 04-10-08, 02:15 PM
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larrl,

Welcome to DoItYourself.com and the Fence forum.

Mitch is right on both counts -- you'll get what you pay for (as well as pay for what you get), and Cabot's, Sikkens and Super Deck (he forgot that one) get the highest praises in here. We try not to use the "T" word in here, and Behr rates pretty close to that class.

If you try to go cheap, it'll cost you in the long run. $90 for five gallons and you'll be doing it twice a year. $140 for 5 gallons and you'll do it once every year or year and a half.

My calculator says the expensive brands cost less!!
 
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Old 04-10-08, 05:04 PM
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Actually depending on weather conditions a stain job on a fence may last longer than 1.5 yrs, it doesn't get quite as much weather as most decks.

There is a reason us pros spend more money for coatings than what is offered at a big box - it's our reputation and we like happy customers!
 
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Old 04-10-08, 06:53 PM
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Fences are vertical, rather than horizontal. Horizontal surfaces like decks tend to suffer more from exposure to elements. The deck experts here over the years have favored Sikkens and Cabots as deck stains.

Before you make a purchase, post back with the brands that you are considering. Some of those offer paraffin-based products. You do not want those.

Also post back questions re: mold/mildew/algae and removal if you have those problems. Surface prep may be an issue. Our experts can help you.

I raise this issue as I have been looking at my tiny patio fence enclosure all winter with green mold/algae on it. Before I do some spring planting, I need to do some surface prep before painting the fence. It appears the property owners slapped some dark brown porch/deck paint on it years ago. The only savior of the paint is that paint tends to survive better on vertical rather than horizontal surfaces.
 
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Old 04-10-08, 09:11 PM
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larrl,

Yes, what marksr and twelvepole are telling you true. Fences DO take less of a beating than a deck does. But, what I posted earlier is still true -- just the numbers are wrong.

A stain/sealer that is paraffin-based or any of the cheaper ones aren't going to last as long as the more expensive ones will.

You'll pay $80 to $90 for 5 gals of the cheap ones, but it'll only last half as long as the $125 to $140 for 5 gal. product.

And what's going to happen to the price of oil products in the next few years?? The Super Deck and Sikkens that I was buying for $75 to $80 for 5 gallons 2 years ago is now pushing $135 to $140. The Behr you mentioned was about $50 to $55 for 5 gallons a couple of years ago.
 
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Old 04-12-08, 10:42 AM
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environmentally friendly - does it work?

Folks, I am brand new; just to add to larrl;s ?s; I have an 5 year old pine picket fence that was never stained; has not been treated since it was installed; some boards are cracked; others warped, all of them are very grey. I probably have 300 pickets and need to clean it and then treat/stain it; some ?s:

1. I understand the grey is mostly mold and mildew. Is that true?
2. Should I pressure wash the fence or use a pump-up sprayer and do I need a chemical to clean it?
3. If I need a cleaning chemical; what do you recommend (I have a gallon or so of simple green-probably will need more but is it good)?
4. Can I clean and treat warped or cracked pickets or just replace them?
5. How do I know if wood is rotted and is it salvageable?
6. Can I treat and stain with the same application?
7. To treat, will Cabot's, Sikkens and Super Deck hurt shrubs or lawn (are they "environmentally friendly")?
8. How much time do I need between cleaning and staining to dry?
Thanks!!
 
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Old 04-12-08, 01:19 PM
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Welcome to the forums JTC123!

#1 - the grey can be from mildew but is also a natural process the wood goes thru to try and develop it's own protection from the elements.

#2 - A pressure washer can speed up the cleaning process but can also cause damage if used incorrectly. Use a bleach/water solution [never stronger than 50% bleach] and spray it onto the wet fence, let it set but not dry and then rinse well!

#3 - I usually use a bleach mixture. Simple green should help to clean it but I don't know if it will have any affect on mildew if present.

#4 - You can clean warped wood but it isn't likely you can unwarp it.

#5 - If the wood is solid it is ok but if you can poke into/thru it with a putty knife it is bad.

#6 - all exterio wood stains are also waterproofers

#7 - it's best to keep the coatings off of the shrubs/lawn - same goes for the cleaners

#8 - depends on the weather - when the wood both looks and feels dry + 4 hrs.
 

Last edited by marksr; 04-12-08 at 01:24 PM. Reason: hit the wrong button before finishing
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Old 04-13-08, 01:27 PM
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thanks marksr,

you have any tips on ways to keep the cleaning and coating chemicals off the lawn an shrubs?
my fence surounds our lawn and there is much of it that is uphill and when cleaned, the cleaner will then flow through the yard to the storm drain past the fence line.
 
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Old 04-13-08, 01:44 PM
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For cleaning you can use plastic to cover up where needed but your best freind is the clear water you rinse with. Wetting the lawn or plants before applying the cleaner will help to delute it...... and of course you always rinse everything well!

The coating isn't that hard to keep off of the plants. A simple drop cloth will do.
 
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