Replacing a pre-existing gate?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Replacing a pre-existing gate?
I have a pre-existing gate, the gap is 39 1/2" wide each side of the opening is comprised of 11 1/2" by 5 1/2" bricks that are 58" high. I am going to use either Tapcon's or some sort of plastic expander made for concrete to hold 2x4's on each side of the fence. I have three brackets I'm planning on using to secure the gate to the opening.
Is it okay to build the gate like a wall where the header and footer are attached to two 2x4's with a center brace for added strength.
Hopefully the image below is detailed enough to explain what I am doing.

Thank you in advance for your time and advice.
Is it okay to build the gate like a wall where the header and footer are attached to two 2x4's with a center brace for added strength.
Hopefully the image below is detailed enough to explain what I am doing.

Thank you in advance for your time and advice.
#2
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
#3
When you say you have 3 brackets for the gate do you mean hinges?
The only problem with the plan is if you plan to open the gate you will have problems if you do not have a gap on the opening side. Between the gate 2x4 and 2x4 on the concrete you will need at least a 1 inch gap. This can be accomplished by setting the gate 2x4 inside by 1 inch (the boards are 1 inch wider than the gate) or by cutting the gate 2x4 at a 45 degree angle front to back. Making the 2x4 1 1/2 inch wide at the board side and nothing at the inside.
If you do not use a gap or tapered 2x4 the trailing end of the 2x4 will hang up on the side before it gets fully open.
I hope you understand what I mean as I do not have a fancy drawing program to show you a picture. If you go ahead and build as shown you will soon see the problem when you try to open the gate.
The only problem with the plan is if you plan to open the gate you will have problems if you do not have a gap on the opening side. Between the gate 2x4 and 2x4 on the concrete you will need at least a 1 inch gap. This can be accomplished by setting the gate 2x4 inside by 1 inch (the boards are 1 inch wider than the gate) or by cutting the gate 2x4 at a 45 degree angle front to back. Making the 2x4 1 1/2 inch wide at the board side and nothing at the inside.
If you do not use a gap or tapered 2x4 the trailing end of the 2x4 will hang up on the side before it gets fully open.
I hope you understand what I mean as I do not have a fancy drawing program to show you a picture. If you go ahead and build as shown you will soon see the problem when you try to open the gate.
#4
What kind of "bricks" are you dealing with??
If they are red clay bricks, Tapcons won't hold.
Are these columns that have a concrete fill in the center? If so, you can use long enogh red heads to go through the bricks and get them into the concrete.
Plastic anchors aren't going to hold the gate, regardless of what you are anchoring it to.
If they are red clay bricks, Tapcons won't hold.
Are these columns that have a concrete fill in the center? If so, you can use long enogh red heads to go through the bricks and get them into the concrete.
Plastic anchors aren't going to hold the gate, regardless of what you are anchoring it to.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
As far as I understand, I'm not familiar with the different stone here in California, I think it's called slump stone.
I am using three hinges on the gate: one at top, one in center, and one at the bottom.
With using 2x4 I couldn't use as big of a hinge as I would have liked, but weight was a concern with a wood door so I didn't want to use anything larger.
I had considered using a second piece of 2x4 at each hinge location to use a larger hinge but ran into issue with mounting space on the 2x4 support that mounts on the stone column, so I scrapped that Idea in favor of the three hinges I decided to go with.
I am using three hinges on the gate: one at top, one in center, and one at the bottom.
With using 2x4 I couldn't use as big of a hinge as I would have liked, but weight was a concern with a wood door so I didn't want to use anything larger.
I had considered using a second piece of 2x4 at each hinge location to use a larger hinge but ran into issue with mounting space on the 2x4 support that mounts on the stone column, so I scrapped that Idea in favor of the three hinges I decided to go with.
#6
If they are concrete blocks, and are filled with concrete, then your idea should work just fine. But instead of the Tapcons, especially on the hinge side, use 3/8" X 3-3/4" or so redheads. Countersink them as needed in the 2X4 (use a 1-1/8" paddle bit to create the countersink) about 3/4" so that the nut and stud of the redhead don't interfere with your gate.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I decided to modify the design a little from the previous idea that I had... now the fence looks completely flush from the outside, I'll try to get pictures to show how the job went within the next couple days. Thank you all for the assistance with this project you've helped a great deal.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks again to all who gave advice, I know the project wouldn't have looked half this good if it weren't for all the great advice doityourself.com is a great site!!!
Enjoy the pictures!

Enjoy the pictures!

