Running concrete base under chain link fence


  #1  
Old 05-02-13, 01:24 PM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Running concrete base under chain link fence

Hi,
I am going to put in a 6 foot chain link fence and would like to run a concrete base (curb or mow strip) the whole length of the fence. This is to prevent my dogs from digging under the fence and escaping. I have seen this at dog parks and many other locations. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any instructions/guidance on how to do it. I was planing on digging the post holes 3 feet deep then running a trencher about 1 and half feet the whole way down the line. Not sure how to put the posts in. Am I suppose to put the posts in 1st by filling the post hole to the bottom of the trench with concrete, letting the posts set for a week, and then pour the the trench including the remainder of the post hole? This would create a cold joint in the concrete at the junction of the bottom half of the post hole from the original post setting and the top half of the post hole from concreting the trench.
Does this sound like the correct way to do this.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Buddy
 

Last edited by aneuploidy; 05-02-13 at 02:24 PM.
  #2  
Old 05-02-13, 02:32 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 9,460
Received 47 Upvotes on 43 Posts
Are you in frost country? Besides preventing the dog from digging under and being able to mow without trimming, eliminating the grass and weeds that would otherwise grow up through the fence is a must, IMO. Hand weeding is beyond consideration. If frost is not a problem, then perhaps some pressure treated wood instead of concrete. It would also allow you to secure the fence to the wood if needed.

Bud
 
  #3  
Old 05-02-13, 04:01 PM
P
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,265
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Why pour all that cement. Lay a pressure treated 2x8, on edge, between the posts. Why do your dogs want to escape?
 
  #4  
Old 05-03-13, 09:02 AM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the responses guys. I'm in the Dallas Tx area. The dogs will definitely dig under a 2x8. They are outside all day without supervision, and they are a breed known to escape and roam when they feel like doing so. They are big dogs and can dig under a fence in about 10 minutes. The property is about 3 acres, so its gonna be a little expensive for the concrete, but I think it is a worthwhile investment. I am planning on doing a 4-5 inch wide trench, 16 inches deep. Was going to do it with an excavator (9 inches wide) but that is a little pricey.
 
  #5  
Old 05-28-13, 02:07 PM
S
Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
So you can contact the local fence contractor they can assist you whatever you need to do..
 
  #6  
Old 06-20-13, 08:07 AM
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Union County NJ
Posts: 370
Received 4 Upvotes on 4 Posts
Cement , what an expensive option of deterring or stopping a dog from escape underground. But hey, if that is your choice over a 2 x 8, or maybe even wider a 2 x 10 or 12.... I can not fault you for trying your best to keep your dogs contained, safe from harm, safe from losing them or even safe from harming others.

The concrete mow strip can be done two different ways, depending on your tools at hand.
In one hand It would be so much easier to install the posts, in line at the desired height of the expected height of the grade of the cement base. In that all you need do is dig the ditch, have extended posts in length and after the ditch is completely dug out you would then dig a hole another foot or so, insert the posts and tamp them in straight and level with the line. Back fill the line with a concrete base as per your desired depth for the dogs...
Make sure the height of the posts are high enough over that base of concrete. Very important. Higher in inches, as you can always cut the height if in excess afterwards.
Once concrete is cured you then install the fence. Wire, top rail, coil or bottom rail if desired.
'
And so, that is basically completed.

The second option is one that I would do, but as a contractor it is the best option for me because of time and speed and for the most part, ease.

In this installation I would allow the contractors whomever is installing the concrete base do their job. Their work not conflicting with mine in any way. Once the cement is cured I would then come in and core drill my post holes.. Same day installation, drilling my terminal posts and turn post holes 2 1/2" diameter hole for each 2 inch diameter post about 4-6 inches in depth. After drilling the holes, insert the posts, level and using a quickrock epoxy cement set the posts up and let cure. It typically takes about 10-15 minutes to fully cure.
Once terminal posts (end) posts are installed and all turns or pivets, making sure all posts installed are at least 4 inches higher than needed...
Using string line, mason line, now you need to set up a line for straight fence posts to be drilled from one high post to the next. Including all terminals and turns.. This is a really easy installation as long as you have patience And once completed it is a very clean application.
You would have two string lines. One at the bottom about 4 or so inches off the concrete base line... low enough so that you can line up your concrete core drill bit to the line and level with the line.
I find it easier to use a short post, level it with the line side to side... using a magic marker in black, trace the outside perimeter of the short post on the concrete. Now you have your place for your drill bit. all You need do is drill it out one after another.
So, once the hole is frilled and after you use an industrial vacuum to suck out all the cement dust debris, measure from the bottom of the hole to the top line. The top line is the desired height of the top of your line posts.

The top line would be determined by the height of your desired fence, 3, 4 , 5, 6 whatever it is.
The top line would also be determined by the type of top rail used. Whether it be a 1-3/8" or 1-5/8" or even 2" in diameter.

Once the top line is installed, once the line posts are installed, all you need do is make all the turns and finish drilling all the holes, cutting the length of posts, insert them, level them, and quickrock them into place.
Once complete the framework is now installed.
Install your top rail. Install your wire and your are more or less completed.
And yes, not only did you install your fence and the dogs can not escape but no grass or weeds will live between your fence line and the neighbors.

One install is probably just as easy as the other, But they both have their pro's and cons.
The one where you install the posts and have the concrete moat poured after, well, the concrete guys are not going to be too concerned with your post being level or not. So, when they pour you have to be there to make sure your work is still level. It takes time and scheduling.
The other way where you drill after they are done only takes knowing when they are done.
If you are the one who is pouring concrete and installing posts make sure you have a few helpers. The last thing the transit mix truck driver is going to allow you for is time between pours to make sure your posts are level. And , the mix will set up too fast for you to go back and attempt to level out your posts without fail.

Best of luck...
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 09-03-14 at 08:25 AM.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: