Heating my home with wood stove. Is it worth it? & Combustion air?


  #1  
Old 12-03-03, 05:16 AM
G
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 181
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Heating my home with wood stove. Is it worth it? & Combustion air?

Hi. I replied to another topic but should have started my own.


I have a stove in my addition. Iv heated my home with this alone for a couple of years. The furnace was only used for the last few months of winter last year when we ran out of wood. It saved me alot of money with the gas prices on the rise.

My problem is when the stove it dieing out early in the morning & the winds outside are strong. The smoke has leaked either back out of the stove or threw the cracks in the exposed single wall pipe. (2' sections) I raised the stove with a wonder bar onto small pieces of tile to tighten the seams but am still worried about my indoor air quality.

How can I reduce this leakage? Does anyone make 10' long stove pipe? I thought about extending my tripple wall which goes through the ceileng & roof more but would have a hard time cleaning the flue each summer. It is higher than my addition peak. but even with my existing roof peak. The tripple wall is supported only with 8" of a cathridral ceiling. If I add another section I think I must support it with 3 guy wire. Im worried about penetrating my shingles.

And.. Whats the best way to enter combustion air? I dont like when my window or door condensates. Is there a method I could install to prevent me from having to open a door or window or worrying about my flue gases from coming back down my water heater flue?

Thanks before hand..

Mike
 
  #2  
Old 12-05-03, 08:37 PM
Doug Aleshire's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: United States
Posts: 4,455
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
GiantScale,

I am going to assume that we don't have any more than 2 elbows on your stove, that it has it's own flue - not shared and that it has currently the proper size flue piping.

As you are having smoke coming out of the chimney on window days then we can assume that the wind is forcing air back down the chimney. As strange as this sounds, nearby trees, buildings in roof projections often cause downdrafts during windy days.

The main issue is that correct height in relationship to nearby objects is important. When the wind blows a low pressure zone is usually created on the downwind side of the house. As long as there are no unusual openings into the home, this low pressure zone is roughly equalized by the positive pressure on the windward side of the home. If there are large openings on the downwind side, (open or extremely leaky windows or doors) house air can be drawn outward causing depressurization inside the home. Increasing the height of the chimney will do nothing to remedy this, only adding air to the appliance from a neutral zone or from the windward side of the home, or reducing the openings on the downwind side will help with this problem. If you don't have one install a chimney cap on chimney. If there is an existing cap, try a cap of different design. Chimney caps can be used to correct wind-induced downdraft problems and are generally a less expensive solution than extending the chimney. The cap can be a turbine type that will use wind velocity to help draw smoke from the chimney regardless of the wind direction. There are some instances where caps such as this one will decrease flow enough that it is not a viable solution. So this is an option that should be considered, but be warned that this may not help. In most cases, however, this is very effective to resolving the issue.

Again not knowing what you have, if you're furnace is not one of High Efficiency, I would suggest that you have a fresh air intake within the furnace room or location so that cold air can enter the home. The open end of this pipe, which can be 6" flex should be placed about 12 inches off the floor. This will improve efficiency of the furnace and will assist in pressurizing the home and allow air to be drawn to the stove as exhaust gases go up the flue. This is the best economical way to provide more quality fresh air into the home without going to other mechanical means. On newer homes the air exchanger is required in some areas as the new homes now days are too tight and make up air is needed. Combustion of the stove will be better and less chance of the downdraft issues you are experiencing.

Give this a try but the other alternative if required is the addition of more flue to promote upward flow. If others have suggestions here, please comment.

Hope this helps!
 
  #3  
Old 12-06-03, 10:45 AM
G
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 181
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks!

Lots of good info here..

I do have a new Carrier infinity furnace I installed myself which I only test in the fall but may need , if I run out of the 4 cords of wood Iv cut & covered for this season. The week of cutting & weekend of splitter rental will pay for itself easy with the new costs of fuel.

The only time I get smoke in the house is when I have strong north or east winds with the layout of my roof & short flue causing this. Chimmney on SW side of home.

The chimmney cap I have now is open to all sides. It has a expanded metal ring which supports the round cap held down with a center wing nut. I dont like the idea of the turbine type at the moment. Seems it would clog & stop turning with soot etc. I burn about any dry untreated wood but clean flue anually. Could I build a wedge shaped cap & point the opening southwest? But then if I get a southwest wind I will be in worse shape

I plan on installing a copper roof next july. (I have a 10' sheet metal brake in the garage) I will then be able to fabricate copper hold downs for guy wires & extend my tripple wall 4' higher.

Hope that works.

Thanks again!

Mike
 
  #4  
Old 12-06-03, 12:52 PM
Doug Aleshire's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: United States
Posts: 4,455
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Mike,

You're very welcome. I hope that it helped and that you can resolve your issues easily.

If you need anything, just ask us!
 
  #5  
Old 12-07-03, 11:15 AM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Lightbulb Chimney Caps

There is what we call and artist cap that works for oil and gas. Dont think for wood and for sure not a turbine. Then I have made and put up a swing cap. Dont know what they call them. It works like a salt cover for the pigs and cows. It wind vane's with the wind and is open only on the down wind side. I think this is what you need here for sure. Hey a 10 foot brake you can make your own. Just think a cone open part way and a wind vane on top of it.I take it that all the wood you burn is 1 year old or more. Also we just use roof cement to put in a lag eye for a guy wire in shingles works all the time. Copper roof we do a lot of them have you looked at cost on 16oz copper of late .Yes they make 5' & 10' pipe dont know if you can get it there

just my .02 cents ED
 
  #6  
Old 12-07-03, 12:49 PM
G
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 181
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks Ed!

The swing cap sounds like the hot ticket. Im sure I could make it except for the rotating mechanics. Not sure on that.. & buying would be cheaper than the time involved.

Yes the wood is cured. But pine has allot of sap. I burn hot & clean anually. Not much comes down the straight flue when cleaned. I know 10' pipe is available, but could not find it in the thick gage for stoves. Only 28 or maybe 26 gage for air ducts.

I got a quote of $5000 for 120 3' x 10' sheets of 20 lb copper & $6200 for 16 oz copper which was $1.37 per lb a few years ago. Its prolly allot more now

The difference would be 80 years compared to 17 years with a 30 year shinge garentee. Fiquire that out..

Mike
 
  #7  
Old 12-09-03, 06:06 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Lightbulb roofs

All the copper I have done on roofs and gutters has alway been 16oz. Thats 3600sq .If you dont have any curves in it Id lay it out with 2"X2 " wood stips and cap them off this will give you a good lines on the roof and show better than just a standing seam. Work it out to about 28" or 32"wide. The cut off would do the cap on the 2X2 Look around for a farm that has a salt lick that will show you how the wind vane works. At A 120 sht 3' X10' you can do better than that I think. ED
 
  #8  
Old 12-09-03, 06:28 PM
Doug Aleshire's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: United States
Posts: 4,455
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Ed,

After reading about what you suggested, my concern would be that you are not correcting the problem described.

I understand about the block salt with vane idea but we won't be resolving the issue as this will be the same as what he has going on now. Lower pressure on the downwind side is what is creating the smoke to travel into the home. With no method to increase the pressure from within the home to push smoke out. The concept you mentioned will do nothing, in my own opinion, as you just placed another box on top of the flue which doesn't do anything to draw smoke out.

The turbine with sealed bearings provides no chance of it clogging or stopping with soot as this is used allot in these situations. I will admit that it won't work well if a bird hits it. Anyways, this will use the wind velocity to help "draw smoke from the chimney" regardless of the wind direction as the fan blades within will assit in this extraction of smoke.

If I am wrong in this approach, let me know. I hope that your suggestion is a viable one with a good outcome.

Just a thought.
 
  #9  
Old 12-10-03, 10:24 AM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Exclamation flue

Doug all I can say is give it a try.

But I do know Have use that Artist cap on flues for gas and oil and it has stopped any and all down draft on the units.Cant use them on a fireplace. You know sometime its a darn tree that has got bigger over the years that does this to you

Had a guy try a turbine on the flue when the creosote build up got to a point he had a good fire going up there on the roof had to get the fire department to put it out.

Have over the years made a lot of sq to round to fit a chimney and add five ' or more ft of 8" pipe on to that with a chinaman cap on the top. This works. Like what he has now just add single wall pipe to it is all its out side and put a chinaman cap on it. Wire it to the roof

Then on the salt lick. You know I never heard it called anything.
But it does work. As it swings around in line with the wind the open side is on the down wind side. Now as the wind comes around it it works like a venturi and will pull the smoke right out of the flue for you.
On air for the fireplace. On any ones we have anything to do with we will make up an air intake from out side that will be open right in front of like the glass doors on it. Also we use a full steel heatilator in it so fans can blow the heat out and get the warmth from it in the room.
Fresh air had one that the water pipes froze in an inside wall in the home under full heat. They had a big fireplace and no make up air no other flue had electric heat. Found out the fireplace got its air from the dryer vent in the wall and out the dryer . It was so cold in the wall that this is what froze the water pipes

ED my .04 cents
 
  #10  
Old 12-10-03, 03:33 PM
Doug Aleshire's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: United States
Posts: 4,455
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Ed,

Ok, I'll take your .04 and you don't get any change back. I'll agree that all he can do is give it a try.

The new posting above by johannamarie just described what you are describing and it apparently did not work. He should read what you posted for better ideas to his problem.

Thanks for the added insight
 
  #11  
Old 12-18-03, 05:19 AM
G
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 181
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the opinions guys!

I will try the salt lick cap next year. Im not up to traversing my snow covered roof quite yet.

As for this year.. We just dont burn wood on windy days & have not had the problem.

Ed Imeduc: The local price I recieved on the copper was a few years ago so Im sure its gone up again. Where can I get the best price on copper coil or sheets? Please reply on this post..

http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...ghlight=copper

Thanks again.

Mike K
 
  #12  
Old 12-18-03, 02:46 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 17,505
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Lightbulb COPPER

The cost on copper goes up and down with the stock. Not at a time of the year. Come up with just how many Lb of copper you will need and buy it all at one time. This will give you the best price. Shop around the supply houses there . Some will sell to you for that many Lb. Id work with the sheets not the coil. You dont have all the tools to work with the coils stock ED
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: