Wood stove - problems with flue


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Old 12-18-05, 06:13 PM
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Wood stove - problems with flue

Just started my first fire in my wood burning stove (just moved). I have no problem getting the fire going and getting the temperature up to 300-450 degrees (flue thermometer).

Ever time I attempt to close the flue damper, the fire gradually goes out and the temperature falls quickly. I was told, by the guy who cleaned my chimney that I should close this damper once the stove heats up.

What am i doing wrong?
 
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Old 12-18-05, 06:55 PM
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From your description I am understanding that the flue damper is located at the entrance to the chimney. That damper must stay open for the stove exhaust gasses to be able to get up the chimney. Normally the stove itself is airtight and there are adjustable valves that control the amount of air getting into the stove for combustion of the wood. I have not heard of altering the flue damper once the burn has started. I suggest you leave the flue damper fully open and control the intensity of the burn using the valves on the stove itself. That is the way my stove worked during 10 years of heating the house only with wood.
 
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Old 12-18-05, 08:32 PM
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Thank you for the message.

My stove is an older version (15 years) of this:

http://www.vermontcastings.com/conte...ils.cfm?id=137

Basically, closing the damper (on the stove) forces the gases down through the catalytic opening at the back of the stove. The main flue is always open.
 
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Old 12-23-05, 07:48 PM
gmalette
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Sounds like you have a VT Castings with a catalytic converter. With mine, I take out the converter a few times every seasons just to be sure it is clear.

Try letting the fire burn a while with the damper open, so that the chimeny heats up more. If you close that damper off too soon, before the flue heats up, you will not have developed enough draft to keep the stove going.

So, once it gets up to 300-450, leave it open for a while before closing the damper.

If your chimney is a masonry chimney on the outside wall of your house, you will need to let it burn wide open for a longer period of time to get the masonry heated up enough to draw air through the converter.
 
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Old 12-31-05, 12:10 PM
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Hi,

Thanks for the reply. My chimeny is masonary.

I noticed today, that it looks like a piece of the converter has broken off and is sitting over the top flue opening. It blocks about 20% of the opening.

When I had the chimney cleaned earlier this year, the technican had a tough time getting the coverter to sit back in the stove. I'm thinking, it may have broken. What is the converter made of? Is it a ceramic material?

Thanks
Scott




Originally Posted by gmalette
Sounds like you have a VT Castings with a catalytic converter. With mine, I take out the converter a few times every seasons just to be sure it is clear.

Try letting the fire burn a while with the damper open, so that the chimeny heats up more. If you close that damper off too soon, before the flue heats up, you will not have developed enough draft to keep the stove going.

So, once it gets up to 300-450, leave it open for a while before closing the damper.

If your chimney is a masonry chimney on the outside wall of your house, you will need to let it burn wide open for a longer period of time to get the masonry heated up enough to draw air through the converter.
 
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Old 12-31-05, 04:17 PM
gmalette
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Yep, it's ceramic, it's delicate too. When you clean it, just take it outside and blow through the honeycomb pieces. That's all it needs.

Good news, you can get replacements. try surfing over to the VT castings website. I was able to download the owner's manual for my stove there.
 
 

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