Bad Heatilator (1954 vintage)
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Bad Heatilator (1954 vintage)
I have a firplace with an old Heatilator that has cracks in the steel firebox. Obviously this is a hazard and can't be used in this condition. I either need to remove it and replace with something else (regular brick firebox, new heatilator or ???) or I need to install an insert.
I don't really like the looks of inserts because the firebox is smaller than the original (currently this is only a 22" x 32" opening) but they have the advantage of being much more efficient than a standard brick fireplace and can use the existing chimney for a dual duct vent system.
A full size replacement is fairly expensive but would be better looking. OTOH, it would be a lot of work.
An Electric Insert would be a possibility and would eliminate the need to deal with the chimney at all. My concern here is that it would not look like a real fire.
So, my options are:
1. Replace with a new Brick Firebox and maybe a Gas Log.
2. Replace with a new Full-Size Heatilator
3. Install a Gas Log Insert (flush within the existing opening)
4. Install an Electric Insert (flush within the existing opening)
In all cases, the facade will be redone using cultured stone over the existing brick. The new hearth will be installed as if the fireplace was a full wood-burning unit, regardless of the above options.
The fireplace is not needed for heating because there are gas wall heaters that are more than adequate already installed. The house is only about 1000 sq.ft. 2bdrm/2bath.
What would you suggest based on the fact that this is a rental/flip house in a mountain resort? For that reason, I am reluctant to have a wood-burning fireplace because of maintenance issues.
Thanks, Joe
I don't really like the looks of inserts because the firebox is smaller than the original (currently this is only a 22" x 32" opening) but they have the advantage of being much more efficient than a standard brick fireplace and can use the existing chimney for a dual duct vent system.
A full size replacement is fairly expensive but would be better looking. OTOH, it would be a lot of work.
An Electric Insert would be a possibility and would eliminate the need to deal with the chimney at all. My concern here is that it would not look like a real fire.
So, my options are:
1. Replace with a new Brick Firebox and maybe a Gas Log.
2. Replace with a new Full-Size Heatilator
3. Install a Gas Log Insert (flush within the existing opening)
4. Install an Electric Insert (flush within the existing opening)
In all cases, the facade will be redone using cultured stone over the existing brick. The new hearth will be installed as if the fireplace was a full wood-burning unit, regardless of the above options.
The fireplace is not needed for heating because there are gas wall heaters that are more than adequate already installed. The house is only about 1000 sq.ft. 2bdrm/2bath.
What would you suggest based on the fact that this is a rental/flip house in a mountain resort? For that reason, I am reluctant to have a wood-burning fireplace because of maintenance issues.
Thanks, Joe
Last edited by Joe.Carrick; 08-09-06 at 09:49 AM.
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Hi Ed,
Thanks for the suggestion. In examining the brick facing (8' wide x 8' high diagonally in the corner) I discovered that it was neither reinforced nor attached to anything above the firbox. Whoever built it just used a 4" thick brick and mortar wall. Since this is in Southern California I'm surprised that it didn't come crashing down during an earthquake.
Anyway, I started to take it down from the top and once I had removed the top 4 courses I was able to shake it and it simple crashed down so that only the bottom 3 ft was left. This appears to be securely fastened to the underlying concrete block that forms the base & exterior structure of the chimney itself.
I can now see that it would be almost impossible to remove the heatilator firebox without taking the chimney itself down. This puts me back at the basic starting point.
1. Either repair the box as you suggest (I've been told this is not a safe solution as the welded plates may not hold up).
2. Install an Electric Insert. Fairly simple and inexpensive, but my wife has vetoed that as not having the impact of real flame.
3. Install a Gas Insert. While this is more expensive, it's not too difficult.
I've decided to go with option 3 (Direct Vent vs Ventless)
As for refacing the lower section, I'm going to install steel mesh over the brick and then cultured stone. I'll take a careful look at the existing brickwork to make sure it's solid - may need to install some extra ties into the block.
Thanks for the suggestion. In examining the brick facing (8' wide x 8' high diagonally in the corner) I discovered that it was neither reinforced nor attached to anything above the firbox. Whoever built it just used a 4" thick brick and mortar wall. Since this is in Southern California I'm surprised that it didn't come crashing down during an earthquake.
Anyway, I started to take it down from the top and once I had removed the top 4 courses I was able to shake it and it simple crashed down so that only the bottom 3 ft was left. This appears to be securely fastened to the underlying concrete block that forms the base & exterior structure of the chimney itself.
I can now see that it would be almost impossible to remove the heatilator firebox without taking the chimney itself down. This puts me back at the basic starting point.
1. Either repair the box as you suggest (I've been told this is not a safe solution as the welded plates may not hold up).
2. Install an Electric Insert. Fairly simple and inexpensive, but my wife has vetoed that as not having the impact of real flame.
3. Install a Gas Insert. While this is more expensive, it's not too difficult.
I've decided to go with option 3 (Direct Vent vs Ventless)
As for refacing the lower section, I'm going to install steel mesh over the brick and then cultured stone. I'll take a careful look at the existing brickwork to make sure it's solid - may need to install some extra ties into the block.
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# 1 if you look it has welds all over it now. Dont know how much you use it out there . Here we put a outside air intake under it and let the air out right in front of glass door-- draft door.
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ED