Englander Pellet Stove Auger Motor


  #41  
Old 10-04-10, 06:43 PM
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I have had that happen to me a few times. Try pressing the start button for a few seconds to see if the augar starts. Unplug the unit for a few minutes, I also recommend you use a surge protector.
 
  #42  
Old 10-04-10, 07:31 PM
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I tried holding the On button and it worked for awhile. I could see the top motor rotating. It didnt seem to be turning the auger itself all the way but it turned... then it stopped. DARNIT!
 
  #43  
Old 10-09-10, 06:34 PM
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Smile Problem Solved

I was having an issue due to the fact that the top auger would run fine during the start-up (SU) mode but would stop running once the stove began the regular burning stage. I thought it was a computer error at first but after contacting Englander they told me that I needed to clean out the hole on the right side of the burn pot wall (not the igniter hole). That was not actually the issue but it got me on the right track. While fiddling around inside the stove, I noticed that the blue air hose connected to the igniter was dried out and cracked. I snipped off a quarter inch and reattached it. I turned it on and it ran like a charm. Apparently the stove turns off if the pressure is not correct during a burn cycle. Total cost: $0
 
  #44  
Old 10-10-10, 03:08 PM
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thanks for the info. I am going to check mine out also.
 
  #45  
Old 11-01-10, 06:47 PM
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25-pdv englander

I thought I was the only one with englander stove problems until reading the posts...so far this is what ive done if it helps anyone out...so far i removed both augers and filed the screw part edges smooth.. a dremmel tool stone works great for the job...it takes a bit of playing..but its worth the time to make sure the augers are set up with the least amount of friction... i took a grinder to the end of the top auger..since pellets can get mashed between the end of the auger and the wall of the tube..the auger tubes are of rough casting so a dremmel can slide in and remove any cast yuckies too....i think there is a design flaw in the end of the top auger as it acts to push pellets into the tube wall..so this is why the top aguger always binds..ya can see the crushed pellets into the end of the tube where they bind if ya carefully remover the top auger ..i use wallmart premium pellets and they have been working fine...other brands can jam it bigtime..especially northern pellets...which some are over 2 inches... i see alot of posts where people say they grease the auger bearing blocks..but they are sealed bearings on mine...so maybe the older blocks were open bearings the reason the motors go is because the augers bind..so fix your auger problem and the motors should last...tractor supply store has a neat little canister vacume with a metal hose for cleaning out pellet stoves..so i keep it close by and vacume it twice a week.. this stove almost killed me last winter when i first got it ..ya think you are going to wake up to a nice warm cabin...than ya wake up to the dreaded error code instead but its actualy fun to work on after ya reach a state past insanity
 
  #46  
Old 11-21-10, 09:33 AM
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Bottom auger does not stop

Hi everyone.... i have read all threads and it seems i have a unique problem...my bottom auger does not stop when unit shuts down. i have checked the electric diagram and all leads are pluged in to correct slots on control panel.... i have replaced my augers just like many of you....but i do not think the problem has anything to do with the work i did....recentlly i found and article that said the control panel can be reset to factory settings but i do not know how to do this.. unplugging unit from outlet does not work.....

can someone help....thanks.
 
  #47  
Old 12-12-10, 03:38 AM
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Same as all of whom have posted here.
I have the same stove, you all are not alone. Did initial burn on my stove in late summer two years ago and went to use it in the fall and the bottom auger motor did not work, went through all the checks with the Rep from Englander. They replaced without anymore questions. Then another month down the road it quit again, even keeping everything very clean. They again replaced without question. The Rep did tell me after I complained about the obvious quality issue that these motors are all off the shelf, mass produced, and getting some bad ones was going to happen. Not really pleased with that answer. So I used that one for the rest of winter and the next fall and out of warranty guess what??? After reading on the net and being an avid DIY'er I checked out this motor, took it all apart and cleaned and polished any bushing surface and greased and realligned as mentioned earlier and have been using ever since. And I also did the motor switching from the top to the bottom. Now I have to check out the exhaust blower motor as it is making a whining noise.
I still love the stove though. But it is very high maintenance. Good luck to you all
 
  #48  
Old 12-18-10, 06:51 PM
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Auger that wont stop!

I have a 25PDVC '08 and the top auger wont stop. Any ideas?
 
  #49  
Old 12-20-10, 08:32 AM
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Hi - newbe.
Have an Englander 25 pdvc, second year. I replaced my auger motor from RoTom a Canadian company, better quality. If you order the wrong direction (CW vs CCW). You
can reove the two cap screws that hold the shaft & reverse the coil. It works, I have done it.
Another tip, coat the inside window with rainx. Much easier to clean. These control boards
are very poorly made & donot control. I am on my third one & I still have over feeding problems. I will probably build my own control board. Anybody have any input on overfeeding?
Thanks,
ekarlis
 
  #50  
Old 12-20-10, 08:40 AM
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Hi:
For roadrunnerruss,check the vacuum switch. Mine failed open & would not turn the motor.
 
  #51  
Old 12-20-10, 08:46 AM
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To keep the bottom cool, I put a small fan behind the stove. It seems to work. I measured with non contact temp & got a 10 degree difference.
ekarlis
 
  #52  
Old 12-20-10, 08:55 AM
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Hi:
For all the guys with auger motor problems. You can go to cshincorprated.com & get one for
$68, be sure to specify that it turn ccw from the shaft end.
Good Luck,
ekarlis
 
  #53  
Old 12-20-10, 01:09 PM
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Hello, how many boards have you gone threw? 3 at who's cost? The manufactor wants 217.08 per board.
Can you describe how your scenairo was?

Russ
 

Last edited by Roadrunnerruss; 12-20-10 at 01:10 PM. Reason: no to or from
  #54  
Old 12-20-10, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ekarlis View Post
Hi:
For roadrunnerruss,check the vacuum switch. Mine failed open & would not turn the motor.
I have a over feeding, feeding wont stop, problem . but thanks for responding.
 
  #55  
Old 12-20-10, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ekarlis View Post
Hi:
For roadrunnerruss,check the vacuum switch. Mine failed open & would not turn the motor.
I have removed and replaced the hose,(wrong at frist), This control switch is working.
Thanks for resopding Russ
 
  #56  
Old 12-20-10, 06:22 PM
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The folks with the board problems, have you been using a surge protector ?
 
  #57  
Old 12-20-10, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mrbizness1 View Post
The folks with the board problems, have you been using a surge protector ?
The board still operates as normal, and the fuse is good. I don't have voltage problems here. I don't understand how the intermitant control part of the board is so frail and the rest of the board is not. The manufactor needs to rebuild this product better. If the fuse cannot protect the entire circuts why bother with a fuse. Just let the board burn and stop all the service head scratching.

I am a proffesional heating and cooling service mechanic I could understand if the equiptment was brand new first year of production, but this is ridiculous. There is customers that have replaced this item numerous times. The manufacture needs to step up or discontinue production of this unit.

A surge protector could be only as good as how much money you want to spend. 20jules for $20 bucks, 200,000jules for $200 bucks. See my point.

I like the unit for installation and convenious but this is making my confidence low.

Im sorry for nocking on your post your just trying to help and I thank you for that.

Again I thank you for your responce. Russ
 

Last edited by Roadrunnerruss; 12-20-10 at 08:51 PM.
  #58  
Old 12-20-10, 09:06 PM
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The manufactor needs to rebuild this product better
maybe the rebuilder is the problem. The can't be checking out the complete board, they may be replacing only one or two areas.
 
  #59  
Old 12-21-10, 05:48 AM
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control board

Hi:
The first thing I did when I bought my Englander 25pvdc was to buy a surge supressor. I am a retired engineer & have worked with a lot of
temperture controllers. These are very poor quality. I bought two off
e-bay @ considerably less then factory price. The only temp that a
controller has to control is the upper auger motor. The exhaust & bottom auger start as soon as the on button is pressed. A temp sensor to delay the start of the room air blower. Two vacuum switches,
one for the ex blower & the other for the top auger. This summer I will build my own temp controller.
 
  #60  
Old 12-21-10, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ekarlis View Post
Hi:
The first thing I did when I bought my Englander 25pvdc was to buy a surge supressor. I am a retired engineer & have worked with a lot of
temperture controllers. These are very poor quality. I bought two off
e-bay @ considerably less then factory price. The only temp that a
controller has to control is the upper auger motor. The exhaust & bottom auger start as soon as the on button is pressed. A temp sensor to delay the start of the room air blower. Two vacuum switches,
one for the ex blower & the other for the top auger. This summer I will build my own temp controller.
Let me know how you make out Ill most likly need one again. do you think i can run a reostate inplace of that circut? I could dial in my own feed speed than. Think that one threw and get back to me.
Thanks for your intrest.Russ,
 
  #61  
Old 12-22-10, 06:35 AM
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One thing Englander is not telling us to do is grease the bearings for the two auger motors.
I grease mine once a year with hi-temp bearing grease. Hope this helps
ekarlis
 
  #62  
Old 12-22-10, 06:49 AM
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Russ:
There is a guy on e-bay selling three rheostats for about $13 for Harman or Whitfiled stoves. Pelpro (Canada Company) use a rheostat with there control board to trim the feed.
I am going to look into what it take to add one to the circuit. I will let you know when I come up with something.
ekarlis
 
  #63  
Old 12-22-10, 07:01 AM
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BreadMan:
The lower auger motor is connected to terminals 5&6. When you press the on button the
lower auger & exhaust motor are energized. When you press the off button, it will continue
run till the shut down cycle is complete.
ekarlis
 
  #64  
Old 12-22-10, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ekarlis View Post
Russ:
There is a guy on e-bay selling three rheostats for about $13 for Harman or Whitfiled stoves. Pelpro (Canada Company) use a rheostat with there control board to trim the feed.
I am going to look into what it take to add one to the circuit. I will let you know when I come up with something.
ekarlis
ok thanks I have temp control that seems to work, one battery operated digital t-stat, one genral purpose relay, and one transformer. Put it all together and some trial i have a control system that works. Not as efficent as the OEM but I have heat.
Thanks for getting back.....Russ
 
  #65  
Old 01-03-11, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ekarlis View Post
Hi:
For all the guys with auger motor problems. You can go to cshincorprated.com & get one for
$68, be sure to specify that it turn ccw from the shaft end.
Good Luck,
ekarlis
Has anyone used this motor? Seems like a good price. Was also looking at the Dayton 1LNG2 which is $89.

Pls let me know if I should be spending the extra bucks to buy from Englander.
 
  #66  
Old 01-05-11, 06:22 PM
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Englander Auger Motor Issue

I have the same issue with the auger motor as everyone else in this thread has.
I tried to look for the cshincorprated.com site recently provided but have not had any luck. Is there any chance it is a different site?
 
  #67  
Old 01-05-11, 09:51 PM
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Look at spelling try cshincorporated.com it works missing "o" took me a second to figure out the error
 
  #68  
Old 01-05-11, 10:21 PM
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Unhappy Upper Auger Jamming

Working last few days on my first pellet stove...Englander... OMG!!... slap me if I ever get rid of my wood-stove for one of these... anyways, I have been helping a lady with hers... replaced lower auger motor (new motor was a CCW rotation and her stove is a CW auger rotation...what a nasty jam up I got into)... the upper auger seems to keep jamming...took apart.. clean...high-temp grease bearing...reassemble, battled to keep auger aligned and from rubbing inside housing during reassembly... still seems to be binding/torquing heavy at motor... lower auger turning fine but can't get enough feed for decent fire... any ideas? thanks
 
  #69  
Old 01-07-11, 07:01 PM
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Question englander pellet stove augers

Hi, We have a 25-pdv and have been having problems with it. It seems to go e3 alot. we have to restart constantly. but thats not the main issue here. Today it seems the bottom auger wouldnt spin. we realized the top auger wasnt spinning to feed any pellets. My husband took apart the top auger to realign. the top auger was binding and could barely move. after loosening the screws and realigning it, it seems to turn now. so we restarted it but the bottom auger is moving sooo slow that the pellets arent feeding fast enough and sometimes they come out burnt already. our stove is cleaned regularly. cant understand why it is feeding so slowly. all settings are set as suppossed to be. start up on 5 9 too. any suggestions? we have no heat at this point. our furnace wont work for 3 days nows (no heat) and now the stove. it was our main heating source too. please help. Freezing! Thanks. Ps the motors seem to be working fine both are moving. bottom one is very hot, top one is cold.
 
  #70  
Old 01-07-11, 07:21 PM
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Have you ever cleaned the carbon away from the auger carrying the pellets into the chamber? Carbon build up will slow the the auger. I was amazed at the amount that had accumulated on mine. I used a Dremel tool to grind it away.
 
  #71  
Old 01-12-11, 08:18 PM
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25-PDV Both AUger's died

Just sent the company an e-mail asking for replacement auger. I found over 100 complaints about the original installed augers on these models. These augers should be recalled. Hopefully the company will cover the replacements. I clean my stove daily, and this augers starting having issues after only 2 years. This year both augers died at the same time. I was reading online that the original augers installed rotated clockwise but the co modified these augers and that is were most repairmen believe the failures started. Whatever the case I have my fingers crossed.
 
  #72  
Old 01-13-11, 03:35 AM
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hec, I had two go in the first season I used my stove, both were covered under warranty but I questioned the sales rep and he said they are a off the shelf production motor and sometimes you get some bad ones. I was impressed to say the least. knock on wood the replacements have been going for two years now.
clean and clean and lube the motors at the bushings, and even sometimes if the motor freezes it can be saved by taking it apart and cleaning and put back together.
good luck all
 
  #73  
Old 01-14-11, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 5dollaralien View Post
hec, I had two go in the first season I used my stove, both were covered under warranty but I questioned the sales rep and he said they are a off the shelf production motor and sometimes you get some bad ones. I was impressed to say the least. knock on wood the replacements have been going for two years now.
clean and clean and lube the motors at the bushings, and even sometimes if the motor freezes it can be saved by taking it apart and cleaning and put back together.
good luck all
I had the top motor go out under warranty within a few months. Been good ever since. This is my third season.
WHAT KIND OF LUBE DO YOU PUT ON THE BUSHINGS?
 
  #74  
Old 01-15-11, 10:31 AM
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Post Englander pdv-25 pellet stove buringin problems

It appears that all of a sudden the pellets are not feeding into the burn pot correctly, setting on 6 or 7 and it's not feeding as normal.

I have had the stove for years, last year had to replace the lower auger motor, and the main pcb controllers. I also replaced the blower , and this year I replaced the other auger motor two months ago.

I am looking to determine what should the settings be for the low fuel feed, low burn and air.

This is my first time using this form
 
  #75  
Old 01-16-11, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mrbizness1 View Post
I had the top motor go out under warranty within a few months. Been good ever since. This is my third season.
WHAT KIND OF LUBE DO YOU PUT ON THE BUSHINGS?
Well probably what I had, I think it was the white graphite grease, whatever it was is still working. I need to clean my stove soon but I do not use it much only when it gets real cold. I did use it constantly when I first got it and put about 4 tons through it now. I am not sure on the temp for the grease but it took a motor that kindof jammed and after cleaning and greasing is still working good.
 
  #76  
Old 01-16-11, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by embrowne View Post
It appears that all of a sudden the pellets are not feeding into the burn pot correctly, setting on 6 or 7 and it's not feeding as normal.

I have had the stove for years, last year had to replace the lower auger motor, and the main pcb controllers. I also replaced the blower , and this year I replaced the other auger motor two months ago.

I am looking to determine what should the settings be for the low fuel feed, low burn and air.

This is my first time using this form
Did this happen right after changing the board? if it did then your settings might have to be changed. ring back and I can look at my settings and let you know, I just do not remember now what mine were.
 
  #77  
Old 01-18-11, 11:39 AM
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Auger Motor?

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...tname=electric


I know this is a 1.8rpm vs. the 1rpm motor from the stove but would it make a big difference? Couldnt you swap just the motor if need be? For $18 i would try it.
 
  #78  
Old 01-18-11, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Wallygator View Post
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...tname=electric


I know this is a 1.8rpm vs. the 1rpm motor from the stove but would it make a big difference? Couldnt you swap just the motor if need be? For $18 i would try it.
I would think you would have to replace both at the same time to avoid dumping too many pellets into the lower auger. But for $18 + shipping who cares.
 
  #79  
Old 01-25-11, 08:10 PM
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https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...tname=electric

That motor is only 85 in lb of torque (85 in - lbs) I believe I read in the beginning of the post that the OEM was 100 in- lb
 
  #80  
Old 01-25-11, 08:16 PM
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Settings should be low fuel =1 , Low burn Air = 5 Air on temp = 1
 
 

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