Hello,

I have an Englander 25-PDVC pellet stove. I've been having problems with the lower auger motor running hot. It seems like the lower motor has always ran hot since the unit was brand new. It has finally got to the point that the motor was loosing power. I ordered a replacement motor, but to try to keep the stove going until the new motor gets here I switched my auger motors around.

During a typical burn, the lower motor pretty much runs constantly, and the upper motor only runs a few seconds out of every minute. So the upper motor has far less use on it. Plus, in switching them around, it gives the wimpy motor that was originally on the bottom a much easier job to do.

Now that I have them switched the stove is burning as normal. And, once again, the lower motor is right on the edge of being to hot to touch. Is this normal? Has anyone successfully put a beefier motor in the lower spot?

The motors it has now are:

Merkle Korff Industries # 4515UI-063

This is a 1 r.p.m. 115 VAC gear reduction unit.

Thanks for your help!

 

The lower motor is in constant motion. But really shouldn't be that hot. Switching them is a good move as the upper motor only runs according to the pellet feed rate you have it set on.
Generally, the lower motor is the 1st to go but (again) generally after about 5 years. A premature failure is almost always due to the lack of proper cleaning of the lower auger tube. After each use clean the build-up of carbon towards the end of the tube.
When you get the new motor, hand spin the auger blade before installing the motor to make sure its properly aligned. It should spin very easily. Also I have seen nearly frozen auger bearings causing the motor to fail.


BB

 

I have this model as well. I have the same issue and took the same steps you have.and have ordered a new motor for the burner feed. The buildup of carbon on the end of the auger seemed to kill the motor and slow it down. I am planning the use a brake hone to clean our the carbon on the feed tube once the motor arrives and assemble. I was hoping to find a coating I could spray on the auger and feed tube to minimize the buildup. I get less than 24 hours before the auger is fouled to point it binds. I know other people who are using the same pellets and not having this issue. It must the stove design. I will advise on my fix.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ghting0056.gif

 

My 25 PDVC is only a few months old and the top auger motor went out yesterday. I was on hold for an hour before a rep. took my call. After switching the motor wires and banging on the motor bearing with a hammer as he requested, they are going to sent me another under warranty. ( it sells for $140.00) I noticed the other motor was very hot also but the rep. didn't seem to think it was a problem. Their 3-5 days shipping is BS for people that use the stove as their only heat source. He told me there are no other parts retailers around.

 

received replacement motor yesterday. seems to be OK. Its made by a different company then the OEM motor.I noticed what seems to be a little fan on the top of it. The bottom motor still gets hot while the new motor for the top auger runs cool.

 

The other end of that auger motor lives in hot flame, this is why it gets so hot. The metal is transfering the heat all the way back. no need to replace due to heat just once they stop moving. But i do need parts for my auger motor, Please reply if any one would like to sell there old motor. Thanks Al

 

My old motor was under warranty so I had to send it back. here is a link to the company that made it. perhaps you can get parts for it.
good luck


Merkle-Korff Industries

 

Can you post the part number of the replacement motor, It sounds like it is a better motor for this application.

Thank You!

 

From the photo it looks like part number B16125AU1 here is a photo.




Here is their website.

Pellet Stoves, Corn Stoves, Gas, Multi-fuel and Wood Stoves by England's Stove Works (R)

 

Here's a link and pic. to a more beefy motor that is Made in USA:
PelletStoveParts.com: Product Display

 

"The cost of parts that we manufacture are typically 15 - 60% less than OEM parts. By and large, the quality of our parts are as good as OEM, and in many cases superior. Most of our electric motors and blowers are identical to the OEM parts that they replace. "

PelletStoveParts.com: Product Display




PelletStoveParts.com: About Us

They are not saying where they are made and they admit that most are identical to OEM parts.
That motor pictured is about the same price as Englander gets.
It may be a good place to get parts, but I have a problem with any company that trashes some other company to get business. Just my 2 cents.

 

My motor was Made in USA and it was slightly bigger than the original.

You must be reading something that I did not see. I did not read any trashing of other companies at all!

This is not trashing anyone: "The cost of parts that we manufacture are typically 15 - 60% less than OEM parts. By and large, the quality of our parts are as good as OEM, and in many cases superior. Most of our electric motors and blowers are identical to the OEM parts that they replace. "

 

does anyone have a part number for the same motor from wwgranger? Thanks, Joe

 

This may be the part. The rpm's on the oem are 1.0, the granger motor is 2.0.
I would call them to get more info
Please let us know how you make out


Power Transmission > Gearmotors > Gearmotors > Gearmotor,2 RPM,Torque 135,120VAC,Open : Grainger Industrial Supply

If you click on gearmotors near the page top you can search by rpm's horsepower etc; and you will find three more motors made by Dayton that might work. The price is much cheaper than oem motors.

Power Transmission > Gearmotors > Gearmotors

 

I ordered a 1LGN2 from Granger this afternoon. Should get it in 2 days. Will post how it goes.

 

Tried 2 grainger gear motors. one with 100 inch lb of tork the other with 130 inch lbs of tork. Had to back up and order unit from the mfg. It works. only 10 ****s more than grainger unit that did not work

 

does anyone know if these auger motors have a warranty on them? I have replaced mine twice in the last 2 years, and I keep mine extremely clean, doing a thorough cleaning about once a week! This is frustrating!

 

When you replace the motor are you turning the auger by hand to make sure it turns easy?


Just curious where you are getting the motors from?
The mfg. guarantees the original motor for one year.
I looked on the Englander website and they give no warranty info for replacement parts. My friend has had his stove 2 years without replacing anything.
I emailed them, asked for warranty info for replacement parts. Will post their answer here when I get it.

 

Thanks for responding so quickly! I got the parts from the Englander Stove website, and once while talking to the rep on the phone. I do check them for easy movement, and they were fine. I chip away the carbon whenever I see a little bit of build up. I'm fanatical about it. Any information you could get would be most helpful! Thanks again!

 

> Hello, I own a 25pdvc stove. If I purchase replacement parts
> example: a auger motor, from you. What is the warranty time frame that
> comes with it.
> thanks
> Philip
it would be 1 year.
This is the email question and reply I received from Englander stove today.
If your part is less than a year old I would give them a call ASAP

 

Just a word of advice concerniing these motors. If you remove the motor, you will find that the actual drive motor and stator are held onto the aluminium housing by 4 TORX screws. Remove these. Pull out the stator and remove the coil. You will see that the stator has a small worm gear ground into the end. Make sure it is not worn out.Then turn the aluminium body over and remove the 6 torx sdrews in this side. GENTLY tap on the 3/8" shaft and the unit will seperate in half. You will see globs of a clear grease which appears to be Petrolium Jelly inside. Visually inspect the gears for missing teeth or metal shavings. If everything looks OK, re-install the motor coil and stator and try gently rotating the stator by hand. You can hold the assembly together with your hand for this. If the gears all turn, but some grease around the shaft and re-assemble the entire unit, snugging the bolts up equally. You can test it by attaching an old power cord to the two prongs where the incoming power attaches. See if the motor turns. (be careful not to touch the live leads. Put some electrical tape around them.) Chances are your motor will operate OK, and the unit will turn.
There is a design flaw in these motors. The drive worm gear on the end of the stator is only held in place by a copper sleeve. If the least thing jams the auger, it causes the worm gear on the stator to misalign with the gear inside the aluminium gearbox. Then the motor will not turn.
If your motor is totally burned out, you can try a Dayton AC Parallel Shaft Shaded Pole Gear Motor, Cat. # 1LNG2, 1 RPM 100 in. lbs. of torque that looks identical to their motor. It costs $89.00 and can be found at :

Dayton Shaded Pole Gear Motors

Hope this helps!

PS: I've fixed mine twice like this.

 

hfarrington, thanks much for the info. I had a motor replaced under warranty after only a month. I have two friends with the same stove that just finished there second winter without any problems. After my motor replacement I started using a surge protector.

 

I've replaced my auger motor once in 5 years, I chip the carbon off the auger everyday with a hammer and screwdriver, it builds up fast. A dremel moto tool also works, just make sure you have the ash vac running while using it. It would be nice to find a lower cost replacement motor $140.00 seems on the high side.
25pdvc decent stove for the price but alot of work compared to other pellet stoves on the market, a ash pan would be a plus.
It seems there design of the 25pdvc has not changed in atleast 5 years or so. A better igniter would also improve the stove, I crack the door open when starting it and use a propane torch to light it, its a lot faster and less smoke.

 

I don't get much carbon on my auger, I haven't cleaned it off yet. The 25pdvc does require a little more work, I regret not having the larger pellet storage area that holds a full bag of pellets.
I use the propane torch also and I use a scraper to clean off the area where the igniter lights up. I have seen starter gel for sale that you put on a few pellets you plant inside the stove at startup.
I found a few motors for sale, but I don't know much about electric so I am not sure if these are the right fit.
The Granger and Dayton motors seems like a good buy.
Dayton Shaded Pole Gear Motors


Gearmotor,2 RPM,Torque 135,120VAC,Open - Gearmotors - Gearmotors - Power Transmission : Grainger Industrial Supply

PelletStoveParts.com: Product Display

 

Well it is the second year and the motors are slowing. I did the cleaning per the above blog but it seemed to do very little improvement. One of the motors died within a week of installing it. Englander sent me another. They are a very cheap Korean motors. I am planning to replace the blower and convection motors this year nd I am hoping it will make a difference.

 

just a thought
same problem bottom motor very hot to touch
and needs to be replaced
maybe we need to get a heat sink connection to the combustion air tube which is always cold to help the motor and gearing stay cooler....

 

On their website Englander only lists one auger motor so I believe they are both the same. The lower one gets hot from the heat it absorbs from the hot auger. If you touch the motor away from the augar its not as hot. Perhaps they should be rotated every season for longer life.
I also get a carbon build up on my lower auger, but it turns easily by hand (its very loosely fits into the hole)so I don't believe a little carbon affects the performance.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...1/stove024.jpg

 

I had a worse problem before this my original auger was made out of aluminium and had a meltdown when I called the co. they sent me a new cast auger and bearing free of charge the following season I had the heat problem on the auger motor and the bearing and the heat shield went, I'm not sure what the heat shield is made from but it seam like plastic of some sort any way I was lucky enough to find a local stove dealer that was open Jan !st. and had the motor in stock at $140 plus the bearing and shield, did the job but after almost 3 hrs. motor was hot to the touch so I greased the bearing with some super high temp grease that I got my hands on through a friend that's good to 1800 degrees F. (it's used for a kiln for brick making ) so the bearing won't seize up again but the motor still runs hot so what I think is happening is heat transference through the auger and bearing housing right now I run a small muffin fan on the motor to keep it cooler so far so good but but I'm thinking about putting a heat sink on or finding a different way of running the auger maybe a set of matched sprockets and a short chain.

 

just a little advice well at least it works for me when these c type motors stop they are almost always still good the motor varnish they use on the stator is put on very thin and once it start to wear off they will stop. what I found out of pure desperation was that if you pull the two screws out of the cap and remove it then take the stator out now I used a clear enamel as that’s what I had handy and like I said I was in a pinch apply two or three light coats to the stator allow to dry assemble and run I did this to two auger motors that would not run at all and been running them for three years now and they work just like new and what a savings. after finding this out I now have six spare auger motors as spares so if you have a old motor that you already replaced give it a go hope this helps.Beer 4U2

 

I have been following this thread with great interest. My auger motor for my bottom auger of my 3 year old 25-PDVC went out yesterday morning. After reading these posts I ordered the motor from Grainger and picked it up today. Big disappointment! The Dayton auger motor is CW and the Englander stoves use CCW.

I am interested in the last posts by its_timberwolf and hfarrington. I have taken the old motor apart and it runs but intermittantly. Either the copper sleeve is misaligned or I could put this varnish on it. Where do I get the correct motor varnish? Can I realign the copper sleeve? The motor turns for a while if I start it by hand.

On another note, is there a way to convert my new motor to CCW?

Thanks.

 

Monday, I installed the Dayton 1LNG2A (obtained from Grainger) replacement auger motor for the Englander 25-PI pellet stove insert. As previously stated, a section of the motor needs to be flipped to change it from clock wise to counter clock wise. The current draw is 0.60A, as measure with a Fluke current meter. The Dayton is rated to 0.5A and has thermal auto protection; this top motor runs intermittently. And, I have not yet seen it stop; so, it must not be over heating - or at least long enough to cause the thermal protection to automatically shut off the motor.

Has anyone taken any current readings on top and/or bottom auger motors?

 

Monday, I installed the Dayton 1LNG2A (obtained from Grainger) replacement auger motor for the Englander 25-PI pellet stove insert. As previously stated, a section of the motor needs to be flipped to change it from clock wise to counter clock wise. The current draw is 0.60A, as measure with a Fluke current meter. The Dayton is rated to 0.5A and has thermal auto protection; this top motor runs intermittently. And, I have not yet seen it stop; so, it must not be over heating - or at least long enough to cause the thermal protection to automatically shut off the motor.

Also, I used a 10mm socket to loosen the square headed bolt and replaced without having to move stove - mirror with extension for working on cars and good light was needed. You'll need a Torx T20 screw driver to remove the screws to flip the windings section.

Has anyone taken any current readings on top and/or bottom auger motors?

 

I just had a problem with the top motor suddenly stopping. The E-2 fail to start code was showing after it was running for a 15 minutes with no more pellets dropping. I pushed the start button as per the manual and the top motor started moving.
I have my stove plugged into a Watt Monitor and it goes from 1.96 and jumps to 2.36 amps when the top motor turns on.
If I switch it to watts it reads 121 then goes to 144
I don't know much about electricity, hope this helps.

It would be nice to fine another source for these motors at a lower price than Englander gets.

 

Thanks mrbizness1 for your total amps and watts for the stove.
jeep95

 

I am very disappointed with the quality of this product this stove ran at most 9 months (I don’t find a need to run it during the summer months) and for a motor to fail this quickly and not be covered under warranty is just very poor customer service.

Worse yet your service representatives deny any issue with this motor, below you will find just 2 links out of several I found where customers have experienced the same motor failure I have.

To stick your head in the sand and deny a problem exists either with the motor or a over am auger heating issue exists leading to premature failure is quite shortsighted because sir when you fail to stand behind your product your not loosing just that customer your loosing many, every person that the wronged customer knows will be made aware of your products shortcomings. And thanks to the internet your auger problem is impossible for you to deny. And your reputation hinges on how you handle these issues and in every case I have read about you have fallen short of the mark when it comes to honesty and reliability.

Rest assured when this product needs replaced I will be taking a serious look Lopi or Harmans product line they may be a few dollars more at initial date of purchase but it will be money well spent for a manufacturer that will stand behind their product with a far superior warranty

 

I hope someone can help me, the motor went out on our 25-PDVC (9/05) pellet stove and we purchased another motor from our local pellet stove store but we installed it and it's turning the auger to the right, but it should go to the left. In doing this it's making the motor kinda reverse it's direction so it is unseen from the back panel of the stove like the other auger motor. Gosh I hope that made sense.

Weird thing is, the model # and amps match BUT the numbers on the bottom of the tag dont.

Anyone know what to do or should I take it back?
I am hoping that's the issue of WHY my stove isn't pushing pellets to the lower auger causing my stove to shut down because no pellets are coming through or if they do, they come very slowly which makes it already burn out and shut down.

 

if your referring to the bottom auger, it should turn counter clockwise. I would just return it.

 

I signed up just to say thanks. Your advice was invaluable.

I find the 25-PDVC to be a great little stove, but requires some care and attention, and the right type of pellets (not too many fines, or it will jam).

It's got us through two cold winters just fine. This morning, it jammed; usually jiggling the top auger motor will free things up, not this time. Then I noticed the bottom auger motor wasn't turning. D'oh.

But I followed your advice, took things apart, inspected for damage/wear (there was none), and put it back together, and it seems to be turning just fine now. (I still have to reassemble, but the motor looks like it's working fine and turning again.)

It was a good chance to clean the stove inside and out, and we did the pipes as well. That was a bit scary, how much had built up. We definitely have to do that more regularly.

Also, it's stunning how much crud can accumulate in the heat exchanger blower motor. I cleaned that out a few weeks back, and it was just clogged solid with dust. It was like getting a new stove. I definitely recommend keeping an eye on that.

Anyhow, thanks once again for the advice; you likely saved me $100+ (and a few cold nights).

-dale

 

>



Now you know why forced air furnaces have filters. It's not to keep dust from people's lungs ---it's to prevent motors and fans from being plugged up with dust.

Now you know the kind of maintenance that needs to be done and have an idea of how often you need to do it.

 

I have read the discussion here and I haven't seen a case such as mine discussed... I think. My stove starts up just fine and the initial run of the auger fills up the burn pot and gets a good fire going. Then, when it is off of SU, the top auger stops turning. I emailed Englander about this and their answer was something about the hole in the burn pot being blocked, which I think means they didnt understand. Doesnt the top auger run during SU?