Help with a Firebox
#1
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Help with a Firebox
We purchased a home 2 years ago that needs the back wall on the firebox rebuilt (the side walls are solid). I have done masonry in the past (I'm a remodeler) so I feel comfortable doing this myself with some direction.
As well, the past owners, for whatever reason, beat out the damper and basically destroyed it, so I will need to replace it.
My plan is to demo the back wall and top course of brick to get the old damper out. I'll then begin my courses on the back wall, stopping every 2 or 3 levels and back filling any open cavities. Once I get near the top, I'll go ahead and get the damper in place and finish off the top course(s). After that, I plan to grind out some joints on the side walls and repoint-- primarily where the side wall comes in contact to the front face.
Ok, a few questions:
1. Do I use the same mortar I butter the brick with to back fill, or something different (if different, what would I use).
2. Is there anything I need to know about the damper and it's installation.
3. Anything I need to know about in repointing firebrick.
Thanks for any help you might offer.
Joe
As well, the past owners, for whatever reason, beat out the damper and basically destroyed it, so I will need to replace it.
My plan is to demo the back wall and top course of brick to get the old damper out. I'll then begin my courses on the back wall, stopping every 2 or 3 levels and back filling any open cavities. Once I get near the top, I'll go ahead and get the damper in place and finish off the top course(s). After that, I plan to grind out some joints on the side walls and repoint-- primarily where the side wall comes in contact to the front face.
Ok, a few questions:
1. Do I use the same mortar I butter the brick with to back fill, or something different (if different, what would I use).
2. Is there anything I need to know about the damper and it's installation.
3. Anything I need to know about in repointing firebrick.
Thanks for any help you might offer.
Joe
#2
2. Is there anything I need to know about the damper and it's installation.
#3
Joe
Just a thought here, it might make it easier. Don't they make dampers that install on top of the chimney? I know I've seen them retrofitted to old places where no damper was originally installed.
As I said, just a thought.
Just a thought here, it might make it easier. Don't they make dampers that install on top of the chimney? I know I've seen them retrofitted to old places where no damper was originally installed.
As I said, just a thought.
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Yeah, after some research, the chimney top damper will be MUCH simpler-- more expensive (60.00 vs 250.00) but to me it's worth it.
The only question I have is that I'm installing vent-free logs and because of this I wonder if I even need to install a damper. I spoke with a home inspector and he said it would be fine to just cap off the chimney.
Any input?
Thanks,
Joe
The only question I have is that I'm installing vent-free logs and because of this I wonder if I even need to install a damper. I spoke with a home inspector and he said it would be fine to just cap off the chimney.
Any input?
Thanks,
Joe
#5
I would give ventless fireplace
I don't recommend ventless fireplaces as they emit a variety of potentially health-affecting contaminants into the air of one's home. These include carbon dioxide (CO2), carbon monoxide (CO), nitrogen oxides (NOx), aldehydes and other by products that may be in the air and burned, and lots of water vapor. Though water vapor is not directly harmful, its condensation on building surfaces can contribute to the development of mold infestations which on exposure to airborne mold spores can cause significant problems.




I don't recommend ventless fireplaces as they emit a variety of potentially health-affecting contaminants into the air of one's home. These include carbon dioxide (CO2), carbon monoxide (CO), nitrogen oxides (NOx), aldehydes and other by products that may be in the air and burned, and lots of water vapor. Though water vapor is not directly harmful, its condensation on building surfaces can contribute to the development of mold infestations which on exposure to airborne mold spores can cause significant problems.
#7
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I would give ventless fireplace
I don't recommend ventless fireplaces as they emit a variety of potentially health-affecting contaminants into the air of one's home. These include carbon dioxide (CO2), carbon monoxide (CO), nitrogen oxides (NOx), aldehydes and other by products that may be in the air and burned, and lots of water vapor. Though water vapor is not directly harmful, its condensation on building surfaces can contribute to the development of mold infestations which on exposure to airborne mold spores can cause significant problems.




I don't recommend ventless fireplaces as they emit a variety of potentially health-affecting contaminants into the air of one's home. These include carbon dioxide (CO2), carbon monoxide (CO), nitrogen oxides (NOx), aldehydes and other by products that may be in the air and burned, and lots of water vapor. Though water vapor is not directly harmful, its condensation on building surfaces can contribute to the development of mold infestations which on exposure to airborne mold spores can cause significant problems.
Bottom line, I don't plan to use this fireplace much more than 1-2 hours in the evening when watching TV. The primary reason we're going this route is to save money. We're selling the house in the spring and want to keep our expenditures down. I have cracked flue tiles and a firebox that needs to be rebuilt. If I were to install a liner and vented insert I'd be talking at minimum $1800.00-$2000.00. Much more than we want to spend.