Kozy Heat Fireplace Install - Cement Board?


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Old 07-26-14, 05:55 AM
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Kozy Heat Fireplace Install - Cement Board?

Hi All -- Thanks in Advance For the Help!

I am installing a Kozy Heat (MFG in Minnesota) Bayport fireplace. It all makes sense in the instructions, except a couple pieces.

The fireplace came with a 'cement' type board ... about the heigth and width as my header. It doesn't say anything spiecific about what this peice is for? I think it may be intended to go above the fireplace in the combustible zone as the 'facing' material, but I am not for sure, and have no clue on how I would attach this to my framing? The material seems like it would not be able to be screwed into the framing -- it is solid, and almost seems like a think slab of smooth concrete? Any ideas?

Thanks All!
Matt
 
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Old 07-28-14, 12:46 PM
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Yes you are correct. The non-com board is for your facing material in front of the triangle standoffs. That area needs to be 100% non-combustible.

The board should be large enough to just overlap the framing enough to attach to the header and the two studs running along the unit.
 
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Old 08-06-14, 07:03 AM
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Thanks for the reply, NorthernPine! That all does make sense now.

My second question is in regard to the venting/horizontal termination. I am using a rigid dura-vent venting solution, and it says I need a 10x10 hole to accomodate the wall thimble. Do I need to use any house wrap or flashing on the exterior? The dura-vent instructions make it seem like all i need to do is put down a bead of silicone sealent before using 4 screws to attach the horizontal termination cap to the exterior wall. I have cement board siding -- won't there be gaps where the cap joins to the siding (the cap is larger side then 10x10?). Also, how do I install the thimble on the exterior, since this is also slightly larger then 10x10?

Very Confused ... I am hopeful there is a fireplace install expert who can be of help.
 
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Old 08-06-14, 02:53 PM
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The opening for the wall thimble is 10x10, but it has an 11x12 overall flashing that goes around it. So what I did is lined up the pipe and pass thru from the inside making sure I have 1/4" rise on the run. Marked the corners where the wall pass through was going to exit (10x10). Drilled hold through each of those corners for reference on the outside. So now you have four corners that makes the 10x10 box on the outside. Measured out from there 13-1/2 x 13-1/2 as that is the overall measurement of the simpson square termination cap. They do make couple versions so double check you don't have the sconce, that is a different measurement.

Set the depth of my saw to just cut the siding. Don't cut all the way through the sheeting.

Then once you have your 13-1/2 x 13-1/2 siding open. I used my previously drilled holes for my 10x10 wall thimble opening. Took the saw and cut that box out. Framed it from the side to give me something to nail the inside flashing to, and then slid the outside wall thimble on and screwed it to the exposed sheeting.

Next step is then align the venting and cap through the wall thimble. The cap is larger than the flashing and would push tight up to the sheeting of your previously cut 13-1/2x13-1/2 opening. There are 4 screws that came with the cap, screw in each corner to secure.

I slide a drip cap under the siding on the top for rain coming down the siding, but simpson does not require that. Silicone around the seam and use high temp silicone on inside to seal around where the venting enters the wall pass through.

I'm sure there are hundreds of other ways to go about it, but that is what works for me and ensures a the exist of the cap is where I want it. You could do all your measurements from the outside also and go from there, but you don't know in reference to the unit, so I always make mine from the inside.

I've installed a couple Kozy Heat's over the years. Not the Bayport specifically, but they are all the same installation for the most part.
 
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Old 08-11-14, 10:20 AM
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Thanks Again, Northern! Your help was spot on, and perfectly explained. Got the venting all installed and sealed up.

My next question is regarding the fireplace 'facing' material. I plan on using some 1/2" cement board, and applying some cultered (boral/owens corning) stone over the top of that. My question is if I nail my flanges on the fireplace to the framing stud, and then put the 1/2" cement board, and then the 1-1.5" ledge stone on top of that, then my firepalce front is going to be "recessed" nearly 2 inches. I do have a bevel screen frony from kozy that goes on the face of the fireplace. I feel like I should have my cement board between the stud and the flange, to reduce how far the FP front is recessed? I do have a raised hearth though, so if I were to slide my FP forward off the box it is standing, that does not seem appropriate?

What is standard? To have the 2" recessed face? Will the bevel front fit the unit, and be able to "overlap" the front of my stone? Or should the stone run up to the edge of the face,and not the end of the unit?

Confused. :\
 
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Old 08-12-14, 07:14 AM
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Any suggestions, or am I over thinking things? Is this topic best moved to a new thread in a different sub-forum?

Thanks!
Matt
 
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Old 08-12-14, 11:28 AM
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Glad to hear the venting went up smooth.

Couple of things with the facing material. When I look at the owner's manual for the Bayport, you do notice that the beveled face is going to overlap the bottom of the fireplace? So that means the fireplace needs to be raised above the fished hearth to accommodate that face.

If you did accommodate that face then we can move on to finish. Again there are a couple of ways you can go about it. what I do is adjust the nailing flange so the unit is pulled forward 1/2", therefore when you put up your durock, it is flush to the fireplace. Then your stone projects from that point.

Small tip on the face of the fireplace since you are using stone. I would recommend stoning around the face or a template. Reason I say this is if you run the stone behind the front, then from the side you will be able to see the gaps as the stone is likely not smooth between each piece. I use a template that I cut out of the boxes the face comes in, but you could just use the front and use some blue painters tape to prevent mortar from getting on it.

Make sure you leave space at the top to lift the front up, so you can remove it.
 
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Old 08-12-14, 11:33 AM
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Yes, I did leave room at the bottom for the 1+ inch overlap for my specific front.

How do you adjust the nailing flange though? It seems that is slides forward so you can recess the unit BACK from the stud, but the flange does not allow for the unit to be slid forward 1/2". It only allows for the front to be on the same plane as the front of the framing stud?
 
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Old 08-13-14, 07:01 AM
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It might be as good as it gets. Not all fireplaces allow for that, but most do. If the Bayport does not, it isn't the end of the world. The face will hide all that anyways.
 
 

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